Sekonic L-358 Flash Master Light Meter








Key features
- •Hi-Res 800 x 600 SVGA LED Backlit Screen 4:3 ratio, Auto Rotate Sensor, Remote Control
- •Sekonic RT-32 Radio Transmitter Module installs easily, enabling wireless
- •Dust-proof and splash-proof (JIS Standard Water Resistance Class 4)
- •Incident readings of three-dimensional subjects are taken using the Lumisphere fully extended
- •Up to 9 readings can be stored in memory for meter averaging and contrast evaluations in Aperture and Shutter priority modes
- •Exposures accurate down to a tenth-of-a-stop for both ambient and electronic flash light readings
Sekonic L-358 Flash Master Light Meter
List Price: $276.38$248.74DEALYou Save: $27.64 (10%)
Free shippingFree Returns – 30 daysFree Order CancellationSecure Payment2–3 Days DeliveryGet It June 22, 2026In Stock (1)No marketing spamNo account requiredFulfilment by FedEx / Amazon / UPS / ShipwirePayPal / Card Buyer Protection
Customer Reviews
Reviews sourced from verified Amazon purchasers4.5
out of 5
Based on 10 reviews
5★
70%
4★
30%
3★
0%
2★
0%
1★
0%
Excellent!
Omega Man✓ Verified Purchase•July 8, 2023
This is my first light meter, so take this with a grain of salt, but so far it has been excellent. It does everything I need (especially flash metering) and even some things that I don't need.
I spent quite a while looking at meters in the $100-$300 range that at least did flash metering, and I came to the conclusion that it makes much more sense to buy this all-in-one meter with extra features for $300 than buy a flash-only meter for less and then have to buy an incident light meter later especially when both together for a total cost of $300 or less would probably do less than this one meter does for the same cost. This was the best value in light meters that I could find, and I looked at quite a few. It seems that all of the research paid off and I made a good decision.
My only wishes are that: 1) I wish I could set the shutter speed and aperture and have it tell me what ISO sensitivity is needed for the given lighting conditions; 2) it "only" goes up to f/90. Issue #1 is easy to work around (just hold down an iso button and turn it up from 100 until the aperture and shutter speed you need are displayed). Issue #2 really only matters because I have a f/177 pinhole camera "lens" that the meter is very useful for calculating the exposure time for... I just have to multiply whatever exposure time it gives me for f/90 by 4 (which would technically be the time for f/180 but that's close enough given my unwillingness to do the math to adjust it for exactly f/177).
Given that there's an easy workaround for both, and the latter only comes in to play rarely, neither of these are a big deal. After all, the designers can't possibly imagine every possible thing that someone might want, and the meter already has a bunch of other features (like memory, averaging, EV delta v, multi-flash metering, etc.) that have either already come in handy for me or probably will rather soon.
I also wish it used standard AA batteries (since I have a bunch of rechargables) but I don't consider the lack of commonly available battery support to be that big of a deal.
If you need a light meter that does ambient/incident light, reflected light, and flash (with or without synchronization) then this has to be one of the best, if not the best, that you can get for the price.
I spent quite a while looking at meters in the $100-$300 range that at least did flash metering, and I came to the conclusion that it makes much more sense to buy this all-in-one meter with extra features for $300 than buy a flash-only meter for less and then have to buy an incident light meter later especially when both together for a total cost of $300 or less would probably do less than this one meter does for the same cost. This was the best value in light meters that I could find, and I looked at quite a few. It seems that all of the research paid off and I made a good decision.
My only wishes are that: 1) I wish I could set the shutter speed and aperture and have it tell me what ISO sensitivity is needed for the given lighting conditions; 2) it "only" goes up to f/90. Issue #1 is easy to work around (just hold down an iso button and turn it up from 100 until the aperture and shutter speed you need are displayed). Issue #2 really only matters because I have a f/177 pinhole camera "lens" that the meter is very useful for calculating the exposure time for... I just have to multiply whatever exposure time it gives me for f/90 by 4 (which would technically be the time for f/180 but that's close enough given my unwillingness to do the math to adjust it for exactly f/177).
Given that there's an easy workaround for both, and the latter only comes in to play rarely, neither of these are a big deal. After all, the designers can't possibly imagine every possible thing that someone might want, and the meter already has a bunch of other features (like memory, averaging, EV delta v, multi-flash metering, etc.) that have either already come in handy for me or probably will rather soon.
I also wish it used standard AA batteries (since I have a bunch of rechargables) but I don't consider the lack of commonly available battery support to be that big of a deal.
If you need a light meter that does ambient/incident light, reflected light, and flash (with or without synchronization) then this has to be one of the best, if not the best, that you can get for the price.
Great light meter with some quirks
Graf von Foto✓ Verified Purchase•June 5, 2023
This is a great light meter making measurements of both incident and reflected light for both continuous and flash light. The readout is in 0.1 stop increments displayed in several different ways by the user's selection. There is a memory for multiple measurements and various options for using the stored values.
There are three flash measuring modes, with sub-options for multiple measurements. (1) Corded, i.e. plug in a cord, press the button, fire the flash, and measure the light. (2) Cordless, i.e. the flash is fired by external means, and the meter recognizes the flash, resets the previous measurement, and displays the new measurement. (3) Wireless, like cordless, but this requires an optional, additional wireless module.
I have owned numerous light meters over the years, and this is at the top of the list. It is a professional instrument in the true sense of the word, not the polluted sense that is often misused for the popular press.
There are some quirks that are a little bothersome:
1. The model having a gray body has lettering in light-gray (not even white) and at first glance the lettering (i.e. the labels of the buttons) is not even visible, because the contrast is so low. Tilting the instrument a bit changes the reflectivity and white lettering jumps out, because of differences in reflectivity. If you use the meter enough, the labels are no longer necessary, but in the beginning the low contrast is annoying.
2. Although the instrument can do a fine job of measuring either incident or reflected light, changing mode requires some mechanical disassembly. The incident light dome in disconnected by a bayonet and the reflected optical element is inserted and snapped into place. These precision pieces move, and the moving parts are have a thin grease for lubrication. The separate pieces need to be carried along with meter, asking to get lost or dirty. The lesson is not to make this change of mode in the field where dust or dirt may enter. Stated differently, the meter changes mode only reluctantly outside of a studio.
There are three flash measuring modes, with sub-options for multiple measurements. (1) Corded, i.e. plug in a cord, press the button, fire the flash, and measure the light. (2) Cordless, i.e. the flash is fired by external means, and the meter recognizes the flash, resets the previous measurement, and displays the new measurement. (3) Wireless, like cordless, but this requires an optional, additional wireless module.
I have owned numerous light meters over the years, and this is at the top of the list. It is a professional instrument in the true sense of the word, not the polluted sense that is often misused for the popular press.
There are some quirks that are a little bothersome:
1. The model having a gray body has lettering in light-gray (not even white) and at first glance the lettering (i.e. the labels of the buttons) is not even visible, because the contrast is so low. Tilting the instrument a bit changes the reflectivity and white lettering jumps out, because of differences in reflectivity. If you use the meter enough, the labels are no longer necessary, but in the beginning the low contrast is annoying.
2. Although the instrument can do a fine job of measuring either incident or reflected light, changing mode requires some mechanical disassembly. The incident light dome in disconnected by a bayonet and the reflected optical element is inserted and snapped into place. These precision pieces move, and the moving parts are have a thin grease for lubrication. The separate pieces need to be carried along with meter, asking to get lost or dirty. The lesson is not to make this change of mode in the field where dust or dirt may enter. Stated differently, the meter changes mode only reluctantly outside of a studio.
Good Light Meter, But...
B. Bayutas✓ Verified Purchase•May 26, 2023
Not as good as its big brother, the Sekonic L-758DR. I used the 758DR at school and man I shoulda just splurged on that. The biggest complaint I have between the two is that the 358 doesn't display 1/10 f-stop readings while in 1/3-stop flash mode. You have to have the dip switches a certain way to get an either/or effect. You can get the shutter speed to read 1/2-stops and the meter will show you 1/10 f-stop number readings but if you switch to 1/3-stop shutter flash mode, you get whole f-stop numbers. Yeah, yeah, shutter doesn't affect flash blah blah blah but I like to meter as close to what I'm shooting at. something else is that the little bro to this one, the 305(?) displays 1/10th stops beautifully. It looks like you're just paying a little more for a prettier display and PocketWizard expandability. Even then, the stupid PW chip costs even more $$$.
Anyway, other than those minor annoyances, the meter works like a charm. I do also like how much smaller the meter is vs the 758. Also, the dome is retractable unlike the 305.
Anyway, other than those minor annoyances, the meter works like a charm. I do also like how much smaller the meter is vs the 758. Also, the dome is retractable unlike the 305.
Easy to use, but you probably want to change one thing out of the box
Jake✓ Verified Purchase•May 12, 2023
I am a somewhat advanced amateur and not a profesional, so take my comments with a slight grain of salt.
I got this meter as a Jesus-day present, so I haven't yet had a lot of time to play with it (I'm writing it the same day). But, so far, I'm very impressed with it. I've abused it and my camera for a couple of hours so far.
Basic operation is pretty straightforward, and without even reading instructions it's pretty obvious how it works. The controls are intuitive and well marked, and the display is easy to read.
I've never worked with an incident light meter before, nor has anyone instructed me in how to use one. So, there are a few features that are beyond my understanding at the present time, but that will change with some quality time with the manual. By the way, I was worried that the manual might be difficult to understand, but I think it's actually pretty well written.
All the above being said, this is probably not a tool for the complete novice to photography. I would strongly encourage you to have a fairly good grasp of the fundamentals of photography, most importantly those concerning the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO speed. This product assumes that you know how to work your camera in either aperture or shutter priority modes; if you don't know how to do this, buy the field guide for your camera, experiment a bit, and come back to this item in a few months.
Also, construction is nice. The manual states that it is splash and rain proof (though not "wash" proof), but I'm probably not going to test it. :)
One of the features that I really like about this meter is the option to plug a radio transmitter (like a Pocket Wizard) directly into the unit (in the battery compartment). Makes for a nice easy exposure setup.
Finally, about the f-stop settings. If you're in a controlled environment such that you can stop to use a light meter, my guess is that you're probably shooting in an aperture priority or fully manual mode. Shutter speed is probably not an issue. Out of the box, this meter displays aperture priority settings in full stop increments. Even basic cameras like the Canon Rebel often display stops in 1/3 increments. This setting is changed via DIP switches in the battery compartment. My recommendation is to set the stop increments to 1/3 straight away. On my model, that means moving DIP switches 3 and 4 to "on".
Have fun!
I got this meter as a Jesus-day present, so I haven't yet had a lot of time to play with it (I'm writing it the same day). But, so far, I'm very impressed with it. I've abused it and my camera for a couple of hours so far.
Basic operation is pretty straightforward, and without even reading instructions it's pretty obvious how it works. The controls are intuitive and well marked, and the display is easy to read.
I've never worked with an incident light meter before, nor has anyone instructed me in how to use one. So, there are a few features that are beyond my understanding at the present time, but that will change with some quality time with the manual. By the way, I was worried that the manual might be difficult to understand, but I think it's actually pretty well written.
All the above being said, this is probably not a tool for the complete novice to photography. I would strongly encourage you to have a fairly good grasp of the fundamentals of photography, most importantly those concerning the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO speed. This product assumes that you know how to work your camera in either aperture or shutter priority modes; if you don't know how to do this, buy the field guide for your camera, experiment a bit, and come back to this item in a few months.
Also, construction is nice. The manual states that it is splash and rain proof (though not "wash" proof), but I'm probably not going to test it. :)
One of the features that I really like about this meter is the option to plug a radio transmitter (like a Pocket Wizard) directly into the unit (in the battery compartment). Makes for a nice easy exposure setup.
Finally, about the f-stop settings. If you're in a controlled environment such that you can stop to use a light meter, my guess is that you're probably shooting in an aperture priority or fully manual mode. Shutter speed is probably not an issue. Out of the box, this meter displays aperture priority settings in full stop increments. Even basic cameras like the Canon Rebel often display stops in 1/3 increments. This setting is changed via DIP switches in the battery compartment. My recommendation is to set the stop increments to 1/3 straight away. On my model, that means moving DIP switches 3 and 4 to "on".
Have fun!
Dayman... fighter of the Nightman...
A.H.✓ Verified Purchase•May 10, 2023
The afternoon was dim and stormy as I entered the soundless hall. There before me was a scene of such horror that I was unable to stifle a scream. Dim recesses and hollows which had never seen the day, (and perhaps never should) presented themselves before me. There were blinding lights which could only have been summoned from the depths of hell.
I staggered backwards as the piteous inhabitants looked upon me with fear and disdain, knowing full well what I had come to do. My anguished cry had alerted them to the abomination before them and they had now begun to whimper and cry out for help. They staggered into a corner, fearful and cowering, as my shrill voice declared "Fear not pathetic creatures of the night, I shall redeem you!" I reached into my breast pocket, and in my hand I held a device of gleaming silver. Some of the inhabitants tried to run. "Do not test my patience, you will remain still!" They looked upon the device with uncontrollable dread, ignorant of its power in the hands of a master. I plunged forward and held it to their wretched faces.
I gazed in wonder at its secrets, once hidden, now emblazoned across its visage. I held the device high above my fetid brow, and declared to the heavens "f/5.6 at a 60th of a second! Begone you devils of darkness and light! YOU... STAND... STILL!!" Alas, the truth was too much for my cowering subjects, as they crept into my waiting monolight. Thanks to my Sekonic L-358, I was able to get some perfectly exposed shots.
I staggered backwards as the piteous inhabitants looked upon me with fear and disdain, knowing full well what I had come to do. My anguished cry had alerted them to the abomination before them and they had now begun to whimper and cry out for help. They staggered into a corner, fearful and cowering, as my shrill voice declared "Fear not pathetic creatures of the night, I shall redeem you!" I reached into my breast pocket, and in my hand I held a device of gleaming silver. Some of the inhabitants tried to run. "Do not test my patience, you will remain still!" They looked upon the device with uncontrollable dread, ignorant of its power in the hands of a master. I plunged forward and held it to their wretched faces.
I gazed in wonder at its secrets, once hidden, now emblazoned across its visage. I held the device high above my fetid brow, and declared to the heavens "f/5.6 at a 60th of a second! Begone you devils of darkness and light! YOU... STAND... STILL!!" Alas, the truth was too much for my cowering subjects, as they crept into my waiting monolight. Thanks to my Sekonic L-358, I was able to get some perfectly exposed shots.
Page 1 of 2







