This worked fantastic for my 2000 Suzuki Hayabusa to repair my stripped oil pain drain plug threads. It was my first time repairing stripped threads and this ended up being MUCH easier than anticipated. I watched a youtube video, then did it myself without any issue. It did not resolve my leak though. That ended up being a drain plug washer/gasket issue. The metal washer looked "fine" but after I replaced the washer/gasket with a new one, the slow leak went away. I wish I'd have tried that before trying to tighten the plug while the engine was warm, which resulted in stripping the threads.

Used it on a 1999 Ford Expedition 5.4 Triton. Easy fix that can be done over the fender. If you choose to use this method, I suggest putting bearing grease on the tap and then back the tap out after making some progress. I believe I backed the tap out 3 times, cleaned, added grease, then resumed tapping. Apply a light coat of RTV high temp gasket maker to insert, place spark plug into insert, then tighten spark plug into newly tapped hole like you normally would. If you do it correctly, you should be able to start the car immediately after finishing the job. I would suggest a quick test drive, then let the gasket maker fully cure over night. Many kits for the same task cost hundreds of dollars, which is a waste of money for the average person who owns a high mileage ford with an aluminum head that has this issue. This is the absolute best solution for someone with basic mechanical skill.

Not a bad product, but not perfect either. I was unable to get the new threads to stay in the head after tapping the spark plug hole. In the end, I had to install the new threads with the spark plug already in them. Seems to be holding though, and allows you to use the original spark plug style, unlike one of the other repair kits that forces you to change to the "long reach" style plug, which could cause a check engine light. I actually repaired another cylinder using the other brand repair kit, and i did not get a check engine light, but my truck is a 2001. Newer models may be more sensitive.

In the end, both kits do the job, but I think I prefer this one because you keep the same plug type, and it can be used more than one time as long as you have more new thread inserts, which are cheap to buy.

Fixed my 1999 Ford Escort that decided to start spitting out the #1 plug. I picked up a spark plug re-threader at local autoparts store, but it had a huge bolt head on the top and wouldn't fit into the spark plug tube. This one is no larger in diameter than the hex ring of the spark plug itself, and takes a 3/8 ratchet on it so, the tool goes in instead of over, which works much better for long narrow tubes. Easy and quick to use. The repair took all of about 20 minutes. Note: If you are not familiar with the procedure, there are plenty of good Youtube videos to instruct you.

I should give it five stars because its the reason my 82 Yamaha XS400 is still running and running great. However, the install process was touch and go and I'm lucky its working at all. Everything was good through the tapping process, had no issues clearing out the metal shavings using an air compressor and small rubber tube. The issue came when I was threading the helicoil into the newly tapped hole. I may have been doing this entirely wrong but I used the spark plug to thread the coil in after coating it with the red high-temp gasket silicon. Towards the end it started to bind and then the top 1/8 " of the coil began to mushroom out. I was able to break off that part of the coil and thread a new plug in as the metal washer on the other one had been completely crushed. Low and behold the bike started up with the first kick. Compression is good. Been running ever since....well, only if its warmer the 50 degrees. Its a much cheaper alternative to replacing the cylinder head and gaskets. Good Luck!