VHT Flameproof Coating Very High Heat Nu-Cast™ Cast Iron






Key features
- •Flame proof coating extends life of high heat surfaces
- •Matte finish ceramic silicone base widely used on automotive exhaust
- •Best when used with primer color paint and clear coat process
- •Withstands temperatures up to 2000 degrees when cured properly
- •This item is not for sale in Catalina Island
VHT Flameproof Coating Very High Heat Nu-Cast™ Cast Iron
List Price: $34.51$31.06DEALYou Save: $3.45 (10%)
Free shippingFree Returns – 30 daysFree Order CancellationSecure Payment2–3 Days DeliveryGet It June 22, 2026In Stock (30)No marketing spamNo account requiredFulfilment by FedEx / Amazon / UPS / ShipwirePayPal / Card Buyer Protection
Customer Reviews
Reviews sourced from verified Amazon purchasers3.7
out of 5
Based on 10 reviews
5★
70%
4★
10%
3★
10%
2★
0%
1★
10%
Works
Sigurd Hokens✓ Verified Purchase•September 2, 2017
Worked great on my tractor mufflers.
Disappointed with Flameproof
Kwame Fitzpatrick✓ Verified Purchase•September 1, 2017
It looked really nice until I turned the engine on to cure it for the first 10 minutes! This is the first ten minutes of the bake process. I'm afraid of what it will look like when I actually ride it at full temp.
Update after full temp run it has gotten worse as suspected!
Update after full temp run it has gotten worse as suspected!
Came out great
A S✓ Verified Purchase•August 30, 2017
Used it on some headers, the paint didn't flake or change colors, came out great. I didn't use the clear coat as some people reported it turning yellow.
The procedures I followed: (not exactly what the bottle said)
I applied the VHT primer as it directed, except I used 4-5 light coats (instead of 2 lights and a thick). I waited the recommended times between coats and the time recommended before spray painting.
I also applied the paint in 5 light coats instead of 2 lights and 1 thick.
The bottle isn't clear as to what window you have before curing it, but from my research its fine if you prime + paint, and let sit for a few days before you begin curing (needed if curing on vehicle so that paint isn't too soft). What I did was prime and paint all on the same day, let cure for that remainder of the day and half of the next day in direct sun (so it got about 12 hours of direct sun in the high 80s ambient temp).
I didn't have a good way to cure the headers off of the car so I did it on the car. I would not recommend using a heat gun to cure the parts as it will not pass enough heat through the headers to cure things evenly...perhaps on smaller items it will be great.
Installation and curing on vehicle:
I wrapped the headers in plastic wrap to prevent scratching, oils, greases, filths from collecting on them. I then installed them, removed the wrapping and began curing by:
-Turning engine on for 30 seconds and let sit for 5 minutes (repeated this about 4 times)
-Turning engine on for 1 minute, let sit for 5
-2 minutes heat, 10 minute sit
-I then worked my way up in the time I let the engine run, and the time I let it sit up to the 20 minutes idle and 20 minutes cooling.
-I stopped curing once the paint stopped giving off fumes
If you are painting motorcycle exhaust tubes, it might be a good idea to follow the above curing procedures as from what I read, the paint is more prone to lifting/burning off/changing colors on motorcycles if you followed the procedures in the bottle, probably because the exhaust tube temp is brought up more quickly than on a car?
The procedures I followed: (not exactly what the bottle said)
I applied the VHT primer as it directed, except I used 4-5 light coats (instead of 2 lights and a thick). I waited the recommended times between coats and the time recommended before spray painting.
I also applied the paint in 5 light coats instead of 2 lights and 1 thick.
The bottle isn't clear as to what window you have before curing it, but from my research its fine if you prime + paint, and let sit for a few days before you begin curing (needed if curing on vehicle so that paint isn't too soft). What I did was prime and paint all on the same day, let cure for that remainder of the day and half of the next day in direct sun (so it got about 12 hours of direct sun in the high 80s ambient temp).
I didn't have a good way to cure the headers off of the car so I did it on the car. I would not recommend using a heat gun to cure the parts as it will not pass enough heat through the headers to cure things evenly...perhaps on smaller items it will be great.
Installation and curing on vehicle:
I wrapped the headers in plastic wrap to prevent scratching, oils, greases, filths from collecting on them. I then installed them, removed the wrapping and began curing by:
-Turning engine on for 30 seconds and let sit for 5 minutes (repeated this about 4 times)
-Turning engine on for 1 minute, let sit for 5
-2 minutes heat, 10 minute sit
-I then worked my way up in the time I let the engine run, and the time I let it sit up to the 20 minutes idle and 20 minutes cooling.
-I stopped curing once the paint stopped giving off fumes
If you are painting motorcycle exhaust tubes, it might be a good idea to follow the above curing procedures as from what I read, the paint is more prone to lifting/burning off/changing colors on motorcycles if you followed the procedures in the bottle, probably because the exhaust tube temp is brought up more quickly than on a car?
Five Stars
Ajayjava✓ Verified Purchase•July 14, 2017
Great paint when applied properly.
It didn't wrinkle evenly. It is very specific about ...
Shootersmom✓ Verified Purchase•June 9, 2017
It didn't wrinkle evenly. It is very specific about how much paint you apply. It takes a lot.
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