Made a nice airtight seal for the door of my guitar cabinet. I actually cut it down the middle and used scissors to make 90's in the corners with mixed results. Adhesive worked well and has held up for a couple of months now. Rubber is nice and soft but doesn't stick to the door and pull the adhesive loose. While it flattened a little (which was good for the hinges and I was expecting), it hasn't lost it's bounce so far.

the only reason for taking off 1 star is the price is insane for what little quantity you get. I split the seal in 2 parts and used it around the door on my trailer where the seal was a useless piece of foam. This worked great but just made it around the whole door and i had to purchase another roll to do the inside seal. Thats pretty expensive if you ask me for a trailer door seal. It does seem to be working well so far and seems like it will actually seal something

This is really good quality material. this is primo weatherstripping right here. Some people have mentioned problems with the adhesive not sticking. Can't say I've had problems with that myself, but even if I did I would still buy this. I mean, come on, it's less than 6 bucks. You can afford to buy some glue to go with it, not a huge deal.

I know that is an odd title for a review, but it is true - Firstly, the actual weather strip is REALLY good quality, I have no problems with it at all.

My problems are more to do with the door frame. It is an internal door in an apartment block, so I never anticipated problems with the wood expanding and contracting like on an external door exposed to the weather does. However there was a 1/4" gap all around the door, so I applied it according to the good instructions that came with it. All was well for two days and then the weather changed. Suddenly I could not close the door. Looking closely, the gap was almost non-existent now. The weather strip is very soft and squishy, but not enough that it can be squashed completely flat. That tiny bit of resistance, multiplied by the perimeter of the whole door, is more than enough to stop it being closed even when slammed very heavily. First I took the strip off the side of the frame with the hinges and it still would not close. So I took it off the top of the door frame and although slightly better again, it was still so bad that if I could have closed the door, I would not have been able to get back in again. Finally I had to take it all off and throw it away.

So the strip is really good quality, but it just did not work for me. The door itself is a steel door, so it must be the frame itself that is expanding and contracting. You might want to think again about using any strip like this if you have wooden doors and/or frames. There might not be much you can do if you have wooden ones, as it seems even the slight pressure needed from any weather or draught-proofing strip to get a good seal, can be more than enough to stop the door closing when the wood swells again.

Rather than admit complete defeat, I used an old tick I learned many years ago. I waited until the gap was very small indeed than put a thick bead of bathroom sealant around the inside of the frame, where the front edges of the door fit into. I then covered it with a layer of plastic film that clings to itself for food, so the door would not stick to the sealant and slammed it closed for the night. The following day I opened the door and carefully peeled the plastic film off the sealant, and left the door slightly open for a while until the sealant was properly dry.

Now I have a door that fits reasonably well in damp weather, but still has a small gap when the building's heating is on. It is not perfect, but it is the best solution I have been able to find when the frame swells and shrinks so much.

If you have all metal doors and frames, I have no doubt this weather strip will be excellent for that. Follow the instructions and use isopropanol for cleaning the frame thoroughly - Do not use something like nail polish remover, or surgical spirit, as they contain oils that are trying to moisturizing the skin/nail and make them nasty to drink. In this case you are trying to remove all oil and grease from the frame to get a good adhesion, so plain isopropanol is great.

To make it long-lasting, I first tore the strip in half lengthwise - You are meant to do that! They supply it half the length, but twice as wide as you are expecting. It tears easily and accurately in half. When you are ready to apply it, peel the backing paper off and try not to touch the adhesive if you can possibly help it, it will make a big difference. The temptation when you are applying it is to rub it down in to place like tape, but DON"T do that. You are stretching it and it will come off again quite soon. I "dabbed" it into place rather than rubbing it. You don't have to press very hard, as closing the door will press it all into place quite firmly when you have finished.

When stripping does come off, it is usually at the ends or joins. So I used a "super" or "crazy" type cyanoacrylate glue to glue down the ends of the strips and glue the joins together. I put some small pieces of polythene (cut from a bag that was handy) over the glue to stop the door sticking and left it overnight. In the morning I peeled the polythene off (it comes off quite easily) and left the door open for about 30 minutes to make sure the glue was really set before closing it and it worked perfectly, at least until the door frame swelled on me.

I am renting an old house while at college and a lot of the doors have cracks in them or areas where air gets through. I got this for our mud room which drops down to 40ish degrees and it stopped the air flow from there which works very nicely. Also stripped the front door which also works well.

The adhesive works well and stayed on the frame when it was colder. The only complaint would be when it was rolled up a lot it actually got bent so there are creases in the stripping which allows some airflow through it. Overall it works well.