This is the first time I've tried this product, so I don't have a lot of data yet. But I painted it over several rusted surfaces that I had scraped and brushed as well as I could, given the shape of the parts, and it did a great job of providing a very clean and protective coating. The finish is smooth and hard. Two coats are required, probably because some porosity appears to develop as the first coat reacts with the rust and dries. Only drawback so far is that the paint comes in a regular can, and pouring out small amounts into a separate container is a little messy. I'll have to wait until the parts are back in service for a while before I'll know how durable it is.

I have told all of my buddies about this Por 15 for their classic restorations. Por 15 turns old rusted metal into a powder coated look and feel. I used it to preserve my '66 frame and I sandblasted it. After applying 2 coats, the frame looked unbelievable. Then I start using it on other metal pieces and parts. Once applied, it's not coming off easily, including your skins. So be careful when applying this product.

Hey gearheads!!

I am quick to complain about products that do not live up to claims, but in this case I used a product which exceeded my expectations by far: Por-15.

Our Saab is mostly rust free except for the frame rails in the front clip, and the rear crossmember (the crossmember is replaceable... /if/ I want to do a full rear suspension rebuild). Last winter before I put the Saab back on the road (a part was on backorder) I found the torque box joints in the front had thick flaking surface rust but now just seven months later the whole front frame is rusting. most "rust converter" paints are frauds and do not work. Por-15 is a multi-step system where you clean the metal with degreaser (I skipped that step as the frame only had a couple of tiny greasy spots on it), scrape off any flaking paint and loose rust, then you apply a metal prep solution that both etches and thinly plates any bare metal and converts rust into a different iron oxide forming a patina, and then you apply the rust preventer to stop the rusting process.

Well I did the etching step today, agitating it with a steel brush, washed it and blew off the excess water with a leaf blower, then just went out to check it after it had time to dry. I was amazed; everywhere I had agitated it with the steel brush, the rust had either been removed down to bare metal, and where the rust was slightly deeper it was converted to a black oxide (a patina), and the bare metal sections had a very thin but visible zinc coating. This stuff actually works. and once the rust was removed I found the frame is perfectly fine.

Because it has spread though I am taking the front end off to treat the sections covered by the bumper and spoiler panels then I will get a paint sprayer and paint it.

if you're restoring a bike or car where rust is in the early enough stages that the metal is still solid, try Por 15. if you follow the steps like I did that are provided in reviews by people who have had good luck with it, the results will blow you away. Not only will I be able to get another winter or two out of the Saab but it will probably last a long time for whomever I give it to. That is assuming of course the frame isn't also rusting from the inside out but I have an idea on how to address that with a pressure washer, Por 15, and fluid film.

for the rust preventer I chose silver because it provides more pinhole hole filling capability but fortunately that was unnecessary because I caught the rust early enough.

Follow directions and you will be pleased. Be sure to agitate it and reapply the metal prep many times, keeping the parts you are treating completely soaked.

The very nature of what its used for kinda tells you it's going to require some precautions and patience. It works well but I usually end up with it someplace I don't want. Shoes, clothes, hands and an occasional drop here and there. I took precautions on the application area but fell short on the mixing site, resulting in the previous mentioned, well you get the point. I used it on the front entrance door to my home that I discovered had rust under the factory primer and after the second coat, I believe the door will be okay. I'll reprimer in a couple of days and move on to topcoat after that.

Only complaint with product is the container which I absolutely despise because it is very hard to reseal. Paying this much for the product kinda of demands a decent container, and seriously , another couple of dollars? Such a good product in a cheap--- piece of tin. Come on guys, help us preserve what we pay for!

Great. It's thin and paints on well. And smooths out well, yet the silver does sort of fill gaps yet dries very smooth. Very easy to paint with but brushes are one-use only (even wrapped airtight in a plastic bag they were toast after 1 use). I painted underside of vehicle so perfection wasn't necessary and I used chip brushes and they worked just fine. I painted the very bottom of doors with very minimal interior exposure and it still made the inside of the vehicle smell like paint. Not terrible but if you are painting anything inside it will smell like paint fumes. I can't say about the durability as of yet as it's only been a short while but you can just tell the stuff is very tough.