If you're wondering, yes this is all metal. It looks plastic from the picture but it's all metal. The base is very large too. It fit very nicely over my drilled hole. And the 3 extra pipes were nice. (2 were already attached to the inlet and outlet, not for the drinking water) Came with all the nuts and washers needed to attach it to my sink. Lifting up the black lever will let water come out constantly without having to hold it

Seems to be a well built unit. Has 3 o-rings sealing the facuet stem (my old one only had 2). All chrome is smooth without blemishes. Valve and valve seat is brass and appears to be quality as the handle is a stiff spring. Not too difficult to operate as some other reviews said. Pretty normal amount of force to push down or pull up and lock open. Doesn't make any noise that other reviews I read said. For the money, this is a great little faucet.

Been running it about 6 weeks and it seems to be fine.

Bonus is the piping comes pre-connected to the faucet side leads (drinking water, brine water, and drain) so you just plug and play into the quick disconnects under the sink (trim to length if you wish) and your up and running.

Would buy again if need a new one.

For what it's worth, I am a licenced general contractor. Been in construction for almost 30 years and worked as a plumber when I was a kid. I've seen junk and this faucet is not it.

The instructions are terrible, but I managed to figure it out (and save myself a $200 plumbing bill!) Recommend RIDGID 57003 EZ Change Plumbing Wrench Faucet Installation and Removal Tool to remove old faucet.

Easy replacement for watts reverse osmosis system. Solved leaking issues with old faucet.

I read reviews concerning being always leaking or lever does not stay up. Here is the clue you need. The rotating spout lifts out and the lever comes forward and off of the valve. In operation that lever lifts on a barrel nut that threads onto the valve plunger. It can be screwed down where it eventually will always lift and keep the valve open (leaking?). The same too low adjustment could prevent the lever from lifting all the way but without leaking. Or backed off higher and eventually not lift enough to fully open and turn on the water flow. I seriously needed a replacement but after seeing the assembly method I now know I could have made my 20+ year old flat sided model stop intermittently dripping 2 weeks ago. The valve has to be removed from the bottom. It only drops out after unscrewing the brass inlet pipe. That pipe has a tapered end with an o-ring only to prevent leaking outside of the assembly. The key part is the spring assisted lift valve. It has two o-rings with one very small one that seats into the top of the fill tube. It is a 3 cent o-ring fix as long as you have access to unusually small o-rings not commonly found in assortment sets. That is unless you are a Butane lighter or miniature water valve specialist. Still, cleaning up all the parts on my old one made things work again and Now I have a hot swap spare in the event this one ever has an issue before I go to the old folks home. I will add for the brave who disassemble the old unit. The bottom removal is the only way to fully disassemble as until the bottom is clear and the top barrel nut removed it will be near impossible to remove the top screw in valve retainer (in spite of the fact I split a screwdriver blade and did so myself). Special note. When reassembling only screw in the top retainer flush with the body, not all the way threaded in. You can install it with a common screwdriver because the valve stem is not sticking through the middle of the slot. The spring tension will be applied when you turn in the fill tube. I would recomend using a double nut (nut with a 2nd jam nut) system so as to not damage the pipe threads.