It protects well, probably better than any other exterior wood finish I've ever used. But it takes forever to dry and requires many coats to work properly. In short, it works really well but is a bit of a pain to apply. Would I use it again? Yes. Because it works so well. Besides, you'd probably have to reapply its competitor's products more often so in the end the application process is about even

I refinished my front door with 3 cans of this clear varnish. 13 coats.. and it looks beautiful. I sanded with 220 grit for first 3-4 coats.. and once the grain and checks were sealed.. progressed to 320 grit paper. If you can't remove your door.. just blue tape it.. and time spent carefully here will be rewarded multi-fold in the future esp on glass. Maybe get a craft knife for precise cutting of the blue tape.

As to application.. I thinned with Kleen Strip mineral spirits. The first 2 coats were thinned 1:1.. and then I was more at a 4:1 ratio. I applied with 2 products. First.. get yourself a foam (pure foam roller no hairs on it) and also buy a ton of foam brushes. Soak your roller , squeeze it out and apply. Once you've covered a decent amount.. then tip the finish with the foam roller to remove the air bubbles. Google "tipping varnish" and you'll find out what I'm talking about.

The only thing with this product.. was waiting 24 hours between sanding.. it took me 2 weeks to refinish my door.. there is a woodmate version of this that doesn't need such a long time or sanding between coats.. but I determined I didn't want to try a product that's newer.. I wanted the old school proven product which seals boats in water. Also.. I found gloss coats last much longer than satin.

relatively viscous, but it laid down and brush marks leveled out beautifully. Long open time which dried to the touch in 12 hours. Seemed to be well cured and ready for sanding and reapplication after 12 hours. This worked well. Because of the long open time, quite a few nibs after curing, but the nibs sanded out well. Leveled the first coat with 320 grit sandpaper. Subsequent coats are mostly being sanded with 00 steel wool with 320 used locally on any large nibs. After sanding, any sign of the sanded nibs disappeared with the next coat. Since I just applied it and have not yet applied my final coat, I can't state how it rub out or how will hold up over time. I would be interested in trying an additive to speed drying to reduce nibs.

I have used exterior finishes in the past, so this is not my first go round. I have completed teak on a couple boats with great results. My most recent project was a 250' mahogany cap board on my deck. I always start with a good two coats of epoxy (West Systems 207 w/ UV inhibitors) then sand with 100 grit between coats. Then epifanes varnish cut 40% with mineral spirits, wait till dry, scuff with 320 grit, recoat but only cut 20%, scuff with fine 3M scuff pads, recoat, wait till dries, scuff 3M pad again, recoat at 20% reduction. Then do once again and your done.
Everyone mentions the dark color, it is mild amber color. But I have not seen anyone comment why it is tinted.
The one thing you want to realize the more pigment (darker discoloration) in the product the greater the UV protection! Darker the color the greater the protection and longevity of your surface.
When people mention (white, chalky finish) that is one thing, moisture. Either dew from being finished late in the day or they pressure washed the subsurface and did not allow it to properly dry.
When do you know it is time to recoat years later? When you see crazing or hazing of the finish. simply lightly scuff and give it two good coats reduced by 20% with mineral spirit.
How do I apply? foam sponge roller. Now one word of caution, when applying the west systems epoxy with a roller you must release the gas bubbles as it cures. (cut a fine finish roller cover in half and simply drag it over the surface or a foam brush)
The epoxy is a pain but gives you a great base to work from and west systems is the best. Fancy packaging and cool names doesn't mean it's a good product. Experience and years of working with a product does. I have used west systems for over 25 years.
(Photo attached) is after the first coat of west systems 207

Varnishing is tough work because you can't take shortcuts but the results in my mind are worth all the effort. Proper surface prep is very important just as following the instructions to thin the first few coats and sand in between coats. Sanding between every coat is a must. If you feel you must use a roller I would only use it on vertical surfaces because it does not lay out varnish thickly and even with tipping the surface finish comes out like a orange peel more than like glass. On horizontal surfaces I would advise using a brush, yes its more work but I got fewer bubbles and was able to lay out a thicker finish. This varnish is great stuff and if you want the best results use the best.