I was preparing to hire a mason to repair a nasty well line leak in my poured concrete foundation. I figured I'd roll the dice on this product and try to seal the crack from the inside first. We're talking $100.00 job vs $1000+ job.

The biggest challenge with my fix was that there was a very large deep hole to seal up. That, and that there was constant water coming out so It was impossible to get the surface completely dry. It was probably a hour long battle, but this kit and I came out the victors.

I decided the only way I was going to get this sucker sealed up was if i went overkill with the ports. I ended up using 5 within a small area just to be sure I was attacking from every angle. Due to the nature of the constant leak I required my wife as a helper to constantly attack the wall with a hair dryer. As she dried I began to clean the area with the wire brush and paper towels. My particular hole was leaking mud and all sorts of crap and needed a more thorough cleaning.

After we cleaned it up, she continued to apply the heat from the hair dryer while I spread the epoxy and placed the ports. Again, the wall was constantly leaking water so this was a bit of a struggle. For about 30 minutes and over 3 applications I patched up the hole. Because of the constant leak the epoxy was springing leaks left and right. To combat this I strategically placed a port over the lowest leak on wall and sealed it in. After working the epoxy I was able to direct all water out of the port and stop the leaks. While she kept going with the hair dryer I put a final coating of epoxy over the whole thing and then left it to harden.

It worked perfectly. The epoxy hardened as it should have and all water was flowing out of the bottom port.

We then set our sights on sealing this sucker up for good. We prepared the polyurethane and hooked it into the lowest nozzle and filled the sucker up over about a minute until the next port started leaking. That was the last time we saw water.

We moved up the wall port by port, capping them as we went, filling with polyurethane. That honestly probably only lasted 2 minutes in total. The directions are very particular about taking your time injecting and I felt we may have went a little too quick. To remedy that and add some pressure, I figured I'd use the caulking gun itself. I hooked the gun up to the top port and pumped several pumps into the wall, then left the gun attached for a few minutes to hold that pressure. This allowed me to force a lot more polyurethane into the crack and push it back out towards the outside of the wall. Note: this mainly worked because it was a horizontal hole rather than a vertical crack.

Watch videos. Understand your particular situation. Attack.

In the pictures you'll see this one was a bit of a sloppy mess due to the challenge of the constant leak. Sloppy mess or not, the seal worked and is holding great.

Worth every penny.

This product worked just as described! I read and followed the instructions and fixed my leaking foundation wall crack. No more water after a heavy rain. Would definitely recommend and purchase again if needed.

This kit is well-thought out, including from the crucial standpoint of safety (I write safety articles for trade magazines, and, yes, I wear both eye protection and hearing protection when operating a lawn mower). It comes with splash goggles and two pairs of protective gloves. They even tell you about the "trick" of putting on both pairs at the start of the job (something every person who works with paints and epoxies knows to do).

The instructions are quite clear and easy to follow. I must admit I didn't quite follow, having gotten a little impatient with the first fill nozzle; instead of using low pressure and waiting as the video and the written instructions said to, I kept pumping. Oops, the stuff cam out that next hole a little too fast! Lesson learned, and easy enough to recover from.

My big fear was I'd run out of the resin, but that didn't happen. This kit had exactly enough for the job. This did fix the leak. I waited until after several gully washers, including the worst mother of all rainstorms I have ever seen since living here, to write this review. The patch held up and no water came in.

While this kit is pricey, it is worth its price. The savings over hiring a "professional firm" who likely will send a barely trained person to your home to do the job is huge. If you are careful about how you do your work, you will ensure the job is perfect and the leak will be permanently fixed; that's an advantage of this kit.

However, I will state that if you're not the kind of person who has some craft capability (works with tools in any way), you probably should not tackle this job (or any other home repair job). The biggest part of any craft job is the preparation. That takes patience, methodology, and attention to detail; things you either learned from personal instruction or just don't get. If you don't have experience doing home repairs, car repairs, computer repairs or other sorts of "pay attention to what you're doing and take the time to do it right" hands-on work then don't attempt this job either. Hire a carpenter or your buddy who likes doing these sorts of things.

The kit contains everything you need, except ventilation fans and a grease gun. If you're qualified to do this job, then you already have those things.

These folks put a great deal of thought into this product, and that shows in many, many aspects. I can't think of any way to improve on this product.

This job went so smoothly for me, I've let the neighbors know I'll be happy to fix their foundations if they need an assist. And, of course, I will insist that this kit be used.

Had just enough to do 10 feet of wall. Was worried I would run out of epoxy or polyurethane foam but due to the foam expansion the job was finished. Called support for my second job. They called me back in 2 hours. Had an issue with the foam not coming out of second port. They recommended three full squeezes on the caulk gun for each port and waiting 5 minutes between each port to let the foam expand. Both kits worked as they should but the Applied Technologies had more supplies than this kit. Additional supplies included corner and flat ports. caulk gun. more mixing paddles and gloves for only $4 more.

Had a hairline crack in basement wall that seeped every time it rained--and it rains a lot in our PA location. Selected Radonseal polyurethane based on a lot of research and the recommendation of a friend who is in heavy construction (highway overpasses, bridges, etc.) He knew exactly what I told him about (Oh yea. We use that @#$% all the time!") A couple of key things I focused on prior to using the product was prepping the wall. I removed all of the material applied by the previous owner (without success), including epoxy paint, hydraulic cement, roofing tar, caulking, and whatever else--about 15 pounds of material from a bulge of repeated attempts. It looked so bad I originally thought the form blew out, only to find he just put more material on top of the old. Took it all the way down to the original poured wall which was flat, including grinding (a mess) to make sure I removed everything that was stuck on from before. I washed the,are with Dawn (a miracle product) dish soap and water, and when that dried, I washed it down with a sponge and rubbing alcohol to get it as clean as possible. In the area where it leaked the most, I took a small concrete drill bit, set the bit two inches from the crack and drilled 45 degrees every eight inches to intersect the crack (I know you don't have to do this, but I thought I could get more of the polyurethane back into the crack. Since the crack was not the entire height of the wall, I figured I would take advantage of the extra nozzles available.

Before I started, I made ten 8" X8" mixing boards for the epoxy. You can only use about a 1/2 teaspoon each of the black/white epoxy before it hardens, so better to use less and mix more often. As mentioned by others, the wooden spreaders that come with the kit are too flimsy, so I used plastic knives (picnic utensils) that worked much better. Mixed it up, set the nozzles, then pasted the crack as directed. Waited a full two hours for the epoxy to set.

I glued the nozzle to those ports that I had drilled over 2-1/2 feet of the crack, and placed nozzles over the crack as directed. Prior to gluing the nozzles to the wall, I washed it down again with rubbing alcohol, and used a heat gun to get it dry as possible.

Used the water bottle provided, and flushed each nozzle and crack from top-to-bottom until clear water flowed. (Note, not all nozzles would communicate to the nozzle below it, but made sure every nozzle took a lot of water (the water is what causes the polyurethane to expand--so don't skimp on the water flushing). I must have used six bottles of water to get al 15 nozzles flushed. I know some people mentioned they had problems with the injection tube leaking. My set up worked flawlessly following the directions provided. Started at the bottom nozzle as directed--figuring a minimum of four (4) minutes at each nozzle. The flex tube attaches very tightly to the nozzle--so that all worked well.

At each nozzle I would pump first for 30 seconds, then wait 30 seconds, then pumped again for ~15 seconds until I could no longer pump into the crack. I held constant pressure on the gun the entire time. I figured this would allow the polyurethane to penetrate and begin to set before I pumped again. In some cases I could pump after the second time. In the part of the crack that seeped the most, it took a lot of poly during the first 30 second pump. After the first 30 seconds of pumping and ten waiting 30 seconds, it surprised me at how much more material it would take (I wonder how much poly set up on the outside of the wall?). After the second 30 second pumping it began to be more difficult to pump. Pump 30-Wait 30-Pump 30....and then it tightened-up significantly. I barely got a third pump into the nozzle, and then held pressure on it for about another 2 minutes. Tried to pump again but could not do it. Moved up to the next nozzle. Same process for the next nozzle in the high seep area, but couldn't pump into it for as long as the first, and the poly fluid started to seep from the nozzle above (I considered this good). Finished up the balance of the nozzles, drained all of he hoses, cleaned-up and called it good. I had about 3/4 of a tube remaining that I decided to save in the event I need to repeat the process.

Note: I had a couple of nozzles "blow out" at the edge where the nozzle is attached to the wall. Looks as if I did not get the epoxy spread thick enough. Then again, when the poly begins to expand, it's extremely dense and it has to go some where. I also had poly push out the nozzle cap on two nozzles. I thought this was a positive, in that I had enough poly in the crack that it had no where to go but out towards the nozzle (the weakest point).

Next day I removed the nozzles and started to remove the epoxy from the crack as shown in the video CD. After about 15 minutes, and a lot of hammering and chiseling, I called it for the day (or life?) Stuff is damn tough to remove, a lot of work, and a huge mess. Cancelled! Done! I thought about grinding it off (for about 10 seconds) but the epoxy dust is not something I want in my home, so that won't happen either. Per the recommendations of other users on here, use the gloves and lay down a large sheet of plastic. As for the gloves. I would put two pairs on at one time, that way when the outside pair gets nasty you just peel them off and the new pair is there. I used a couple of extra sets of gloves (two pairs to apply the epoxy, another two pairs to apply the polyurethane (as you get the polyurethane on your hands when inserting the plug into the nozzle as they drip when you remove the injection tube.) Give yourself plenty of room to work, and take your time.

BTW, the epoxy and hardener when mixing is extremely foul-smelling. Make sure you are in an area that is ventilated as it is pretty nauseous.

Report after three weeks. We have had three major storms of 3", 2.5" and 2 inches and some minor rains of 1/2" or more. Previously, the wall would have seeped with each and every rain. Since I used the Radonseal product--nothing. No seeping, not even a sweating where the crack is. I can tell you from past experience I would have had some water puddle on the floor, or in the lighter rains some sweating on the crack --but after the treatment, nothing. The wall is completely dry from top to bottom.