I've disassembled dashboards to install new head decks and instrument panels, but this was a level of difficulty I wasn't expecting from just a 3 wire install. However, I have "Cruise Light" and fully functional cruise control in the '09 Tacoma and I'm very happy with this purchase.

This stalk took about 20 minutes to install, one of the easiest things I've done with the truck. Bolt it in plug it into the harness and you are good to go. They have a YouTube video for the install.

I do have some advice for if you are putting this in a manual truck though. Get the OEM clutch switch from your dealer if you are prewired for cruise control. That way it is just plug and play. The spot is too tight for the universal rostra switch (ask me how I know) and you would have to splice wires using the universal which is all but impossible in that space. I had a hard time just plugging the factory harness into the OEM clutch switch. They are about the same price anyway.

All said and done it works exactly how it should and I am very happy with it.

extremely easy to install in my 2017 Tacoma, took maybe 45 minutes. the instructions included can be a little confusing but Rosta has videos on youtube with step-by-step instructions and it was a sinch. cruise control and indicator light work perfectly, Highly recommend, saved me a few hundred instead of getting it dome at the shop

I have a 2010 Toyota Matrix that I installed this into. The instructions were very easy to follow, the install took less than 30 minutes, and it works perfectly. I needed a socket to disconnect and reconnect the battery, a screw driver to disassemble and reassemble the airbag/steering wheel, and a hole saw bit for my drill to make a clean hole in the plastic cover on the steering column. Other tools could have been used to cut the hole, but that was clean and easy. This was so easy that I'm not sure why Toyota didn't just install these in all cars. They already had all the internal wiring completed (though the kit does include instructions and parts to do that wiring if the car didn't come with it). The control arm works just like the factory ones. It's very sturdy and looks great. I'm very happy with it.

Very easy to install on the 2012 Tacoma automatic. About 2.5 hours, working at night, outside with a headlamp. The hardest part was disassembling the dash panels, since I don't know the tricks. The cruise indicator light was already wired from the instrument panel to the computer on the 2012, so as soon as the battery was reconnected, I could test the system and get a little green "CRUISE" light on the dash. The install came down to running and connecting two wires, and putting in two screws to mount the cruise arm. Crazy they leave this out of a brand new $20K+ vehicle, when it makes driving it so much easier!

The kit came with multiple brown wires, with different connectors on the ends, clearly for different models. Only the correct pins fit in BOTH connectors. So check both sides before running the brown wire through the dash. Have a tiny screwdriver to open the connector pin retainers -- the instructions show where to push to get the button to pop up so you can slide the pins home.

FYI on removing the panels: the black floor kick pad removes with a mighty, wrenching yank. The floor panel along the door also pulls up. With these two out of the way, the kick panel can be painstakingly removed using a long skinny screwdriver to release the two catches. Certainly seems like there is a better way. The other panels are fairly easy, and the glove box is simple. The steering wheel bottom panel required removing the 3 bolt black metal piece first. The two Philips screws can be reached by turning the steering wheel. There are plastic catches on both sides of the panel, near the back of the column.

Finally, after cutting the hole in the switch knockout, I added some aesthetic and dust protection. I lined the inside of the knockout with heavy duty double sided tape, then stretched some thick black nylon cloth to cover the hole. Then cut a + in the nylon to allow the arm to stick through and move without interference. Looks great. Of course, the switch knockout panel can be dealt with after the install, or just left off entirely, and doesn't effect functionality at all. So you can leave it til later.