I had some damage to the exterior of two wooden window frames, from a squirrel chewing away at the wood, trying to get inside. This product worked very well to repair the damage. The kit is extremely complete and the instructions are easy to follow.

A few notes:

The PC-Petrifier is a very watery liquid, so it tends to run and will leave a slight mark (once it dries) if it runs on to undamaged wood. After a final sanding, however, I didn't notice these marks any more, but don't let it run onto wood that you won't be refinishing. The Petrifier is water based, so you can wash out the small flux brush that they include and reuse it.

The two-part epoxy was easy to mix, because the two parts are two different colors, and you keep mixing until it's a uniform blend. The result is the consistency of sticky peanut butter. If you can imagine applying sticky peanut butter to your damaged wood, it's not so easy to get a smooth uniform coating. If you are repairing deep or widespread damage, plan on making multiple applications (I did them one day apart, to allow curing) instead of trying to do it all at once. The first application might just be to work the epoxy into all the nooks and crannies so it adheres well, which requires some pressure with the putty knife. Even for the final application, it will be hard to get a very smooth and uniform finish, so plan on doing some sanding after the final cure. By the way, if you want to reuse the mixing board they provide, use a paper towel to wipe off the epoxy before it cures, which leaves the board almost like new. You can even wipe off and reuse the mixing stick.

I used a Surform tool for rough sanding, and regular sandpaper for final sanding. I should say that I have the carbide grit Surform tool, which is very aggressive, and it still required some work to get rid of the bumps and waviness in the cured putty. It wasn't an excessive amount of work, but it did require some "elbow grease".

When I finished sanding, I saw a couple of small voids in the surface where I missed with the final putty application. This is a good place to use the other epoxy putty in the kit, the tube of kneadable putty. Pinch off a little blob of putty, knead it well to mix it (wear latex gloves), and work it into any voids to fix boo-boos.

The cured epoxy holds paint well and when I was all done, the repair looked great!

I am very pleased with this product. Repaired a rotted out joist section on my deck. Mixed and applied the wood hardner and my joist is stronger than what it was originally. Then I applied the wood filler and smoothed it out This product gives you more time to work with it compared to bondo . I did have to buy a second batch of the filler to complete my project but was pleased with the end result. The hardner is a bit messy, so make sure you have extra rubber gloves. The product can be used on a joist so that says a lot right there. Good tough product and I would purchase again.

I had lots of worries before receiving it. It turned out it has everything you need to use it! User's manual, sticks to apply, mixing pad. I haven't tried anything like this and my project went through smoothly.

I was moving my house and disassembled my desk and broke it. It's mainly structurally, as guided by the manual, I didn't use the petrified.

I don't know the difference between the paste and the lumber. My short conclusion aster using them is that, use the paste is you can. The lumber is easier to cure but too fragile.

I used the woody paste to fill most of the wholes and it's very sturdy.

I used the lumber to fill minor holes and made a stick instead of the wood as in the photo. I would not recommend using the lumber overall. It's fragile, the stick broke and the other holes filled by the lumber also broke.

Some tips as mentioned by some people. Use 2 sticks to scoop 2 paste separately, you definitely don't want to mix them in the can. Another thing is to put a nail in the real wood and apply the paste. It will give the paste something to grab. I believe it will make it stronger.

Overall, I like the paste a lot! I would use it for everything, it's way better than the lumber. And of course I fixed my desk!

I purchased this product to strengthen the feet of my shop class 35 y/o picnic table. The rot had softened the wood down at least two inches. I applied as directed and it worked great! I used another of this companies epoxy paste to level off and seal the bottoms. I definitely recommend and plan on buying again.

I want to start by saying I am a complete novice and am trying to learn how to do some repairs around my own house to save money. And I loved this product.
I bought this to repair some porch floor boards that had some big (10-18 inch x 1 in) splinters missing. A few boards also had rotted ends that had splintered up and looked really raggedy. I didn't want to replace the boards because of the expense and extent of the work that would have been required to do so, but I wanted the boards to look better / more complete for repainting. I used the PC-petrifier to harden up and preserve the underlying wood in the areas that I needed to replace. After 24 hours I then used the PC-Woody to rebuild the ends of the boards and to fill-in and rebuild the missing splintered areas. In some of my deep cracks / splintered areas, I had to place a second layer 24 hours later as it did shrink a little. I probably could have skipped doing this, the shrinkage was barely noticeable, but I tend to fuss with things until I think they are perfect. After 24 hours the repairs seemed cured, so I sanded the repaired areas a tiny bit by hand and then painted it. The paint went onto the repairs beautifully. If I didn't know where the repairs were, I don't think I could pick them out.
My only problem was mixing the PC-Woody up. It is a two-part epoxy that must be combined 1:1. I used a scale to make sure I was doing 1:1 accurately by measuring onto the tile provided in the kit. Because my repairs were so extensive, I had to use almost all the material in both jars and the tile was really too small for mixing up that much of the product. For small repairs it would be fine but I suggest using a bigger tile or piece of plastic to mix the epoxy on if you are using more than 1/4 of the jars. The directions describe the consistence of the mixed epoxy to be like that of peanut butter and I would say that this is accurate. It was not too hard to work with. I actually found that filling in the larger areas roughly and then waiting 5-15 minutes for the material to set up a little and then going back and shaping and smoothing was easier than trying to get the shape perfect while the epoxy was still really soft and sticky. After waiting for it to firm up a little, I used my gloved fingers to press and smooth the epoxy into the shape I wanted and touched up with the putty knife to smooth it level with the neighboring boards.
I am very pleased with this product and am planing to buy a separate set of the PC-Woody to repair some rotted windowsill interiors that I have.