Purchased these to accompany LED bulb replacements in a 2008 Prius. The four pack was enough to replace all four corners of the car, and I had no problems with hyperflash once these were installed. My only concern was the quick-tap wiring connectors, they were too small to snap over the vehicle wiring until I opened the plastic slot up slightly with a screwdriver. This is a minor issue, and the fact that CuteQueen included these connectors saved me from having to go out and purchase them separately, so that's great. Just wanted to share my solution to the problem.

I recently installed LED headlights on my Jeep Wrangler JKU. During the installation one of my high beam circuits failed. Not sure why but there is no fuse or relay so I was in big trouble. I decided to wire both lights to other side circuit but I was worried about another failure so I made a new wiring harness to run both headlights directly from the battery. I used the remaining functional headlight feed to switch the relays. Everything worked fine but the relays were cycling rapidly when the engine was running. This seems to be caused by the low current draw freaking out the CANBUS system. The solution is load resistors and these were a great price so I placed the order. I installed them right away and they solved the problem as expected. Since I only needed two I also have spares in case one fails. Nice!

One thing to keep in mind is that these turn 2A at 12v directly into heat so they get HOT. I was seeing temperatures of 200 degrees! I had to mount these to the body in order to absorb some of the heat. My other option was a heatsink but attaching them to the vehicle turned out to be easier. Don't skimp on mounting these correctly or you could start a fire!

Updated to add a picture of my installation which I figured might help people. I mounted them to the body of my Jeep under the hood and out thermal paste beneath them to assist in heat transfer. Even with all that metal the resistors still get mighty hot and the surrounding steel gets pretty warm. Be careful with these!

This LR works as intended, however, after installing them, I noticed my LED lights became a little dimmed when turned on. I bought this to install on my 2005 E46 M3 front turn signals because I had LED bulbs on it and it shows a "bulb out" indicator on my dashboard and it was hyperflashing also when my signals are activated. It stopped the hyperflash and the "bulb out" indicator was cleared and never showed again but it made my LED lights dimmed. Also, they do get hot during use as stated in the seller's ad so be careful where you place these load resistors or you will burn something on your car.

Way less expensive than the LED bulb vendor's version. Mounting space and surface might be an issue. These are a little bigger than a lipstick and get very hot, so you can't just tuck them into a harness or a plastic lamp housing. Solved the problem of getting an ABS MIL with Sylvania LEDs that were touted as being "compatible" with computer control modules. They can also be used to solve a fast flash or no flash turn signal with LED retrofits, instead of replacing the flasher. Just remember they will get hot enough to melt plastic parts and wire insulation.

I'm an Electronics Tech. Now that I put that out there, this product has so little solder all of them broke of the leads. Resistors are resistors, not much to that aspect. It's the leads that you need to stay on. I did them the way they should have been done.
1. Take everything off & separate.
2. Strip & twist wires.
3. Tin the wires.
4. Insert wires into holes, bend & crimp/flatten.
5. Flux & Solder wires to leads.
6. Cover with heat shrink
7. Zip-Tie over heat shrink/leads/wires.