Will update if I have failure issues, but is doing what I need it to well. I put on a L bracket screwed to the christmas tree base and auto water. have a 3w fountain pump and switch is rated 10 so should handle the load no problems. most auto water units I could buy didn't hold over 2 liters and a very few that held a gallon. I find my trees usually take 2-3 quarts (more than 2 L) a day so if I'm gone 3 days they won't do. This, a cheap, pump and a 5 gal bucket will do for a week or more.

Worked great except one unexpected item. I installed these with thread up, float down. Unlisted in the description. This is a normally closed position. Tank full moves float to threaded end, opening switch for open circuit.

This float switch works great and is perfect for what I needed. I used this float switch along with a 1/4" 12v solenoid water valve and a 12v power supply to make an automatic top off filler for my 42 gallon aquarium. It works great. I ran a 1/4" plastic water line from my reverse osmosis filter in the basement and connected it to the valve which is controlled by this float switch. My filter system has a 3 gallon bladder tank on it so there is always a store of water under pressure which I also use for my refrigerator water and ice dispenser.

I love how this switch works for my super cheap homemade aquarium top off system. The nice thing is, I can siphon 2 gallons of water out of the aquarium every day or two in like 2 minutes and it automatically refills to the correct level without ever carrying water to the tank. I no longer have to do a weekly 20% change of 8 gallons and it's less stress on the fish. Plus, water evaporates quickly from the aquarium in the dry winter air, especially with our wood pellet stove in the room so with my automatic top off, i no longer have to add a gallon per day.

Love it. I would give five stars but there are no instructions on wiring. I guess they assume you know how. I ended up knocking out several of these while making an automatic bilge switch for my boat. I thought the description stated they could handle 3 amps but a close look and careful reading of the specs indicates they can only handle less than an amp. Max Contact Rating;is listed as 10W. At 12V that is only .833 Mamp . My bad was connecting them incorrectly to the relay and had them on the load side and the switch. After much consternation I discovered both wires had to be wired to the ON/OFF/ON switch I was using and the center post of the switch getting it's ground from the low side of the relay. Problem solved. Now I have a automatic bilge switch that should have cost me about $2.00 instead of the $44 for a commercial switch and it works flawlessly. I used a 1 1/4 in. piece of PVC pipe approx. 2 1/2 in. long. I first drilled 3/8 in holes in a pattern that evenly covered the diameter of the pipe .....about 4 holes all of the way through...giving you 8 total. I then used a chop saw to cut the pipe at the center of the holes. Using a pipe cap, I flattened the top with a sander, drilled the appropriate sized hole for the threaded stem to go through, attached the o-ring and nut. You must drill a small 1/8 in hole in the top of the cap to allow air to escape so that water can move up and raise the float. NOTE: by default these switches are Normally closed or on. In my case I needed it to be normally open or off. As noted in another review I read, the small white C-Clip comes off and you simply flip the float over...it will now be normally open or OFF.

I was only needing one, but for the price, I figured I might as well. I had had it with mechanical float valves for my koi pond. Every few months the floats would fail. Decided to go electric and used these. Used a couple of 1 1/2" abs fittings and drilled a few holes. Now I have a float valve that works and can be hidden in the rocks. It has worked liked a dream. I'm using 1/2" 12v valve and a 12v dc 8watt transformer.