This stuff is not tricky to print at all and I regularly print without an enclosure for most of the stuff that I do. I have had a lot of trouble getting this filament to smooth with acetone so it loses a star for that.

I have brought multiple tooled of plastic from hatch box and have been printing for years. Even some of my old rolls from years ago I didn't fully use and store properly still print no problem if in a pinch or messing around. That's really saying something.

This is the third ABS filament I've used, so I am no expert, but I was able to get it working successfully and fairly accurately with my printer.

My printer is a Geeetech i3 pro b with some tweaks (pei build surface, metal extruder, new Teflon nozzle and throat, and most importantly, having the gantry rest on the nuts for z movement vs being screwed to it (created wobble)). It does not have auto bed leveling or an enclosure (but not a lot of movement in the room).

I print at between 226c and 230c nozzle temp and 100c heated bed - usually with a brim and using mostly slic3r default settings.

I did have a larger print where the layers separated at the corner about 2 inches up. I've also experienced warping with some pieces I've printed in spite of using a newly cleaned PEI surface, 100c bed, and a 4mm brim. However this could be due to bed level issues, and has not been common. One additional problem I'm struggling with is that my 1.2mm by 5mm vertical wall snaps off vs springs (this might be asking a lot, but probably related to layer adhesion).

I have not noticed it being worse than my other filaments - 1 hatchbox gold and the other 3dsolutech apple green. I have noticed it seems tk bridge very nicely.

The parts I print have a sturdy feel to them and seem fairly sturdy.

The glow is not very intense compared to some other glowing ceiling stars we have - at least with a 0.9mm solid top layer over 20% infill. Solid infill does seem to make it glow much better.

Before I dive into the negatives, it's worth pointing out the goods in the product and why I like it. ABS is hard to print with, Hatchbox ABS is usually pretty strong and very good for the price. If you are looking to build durable materials and are willing to do some filament testing and stress tests you can absolutely get this to print beautiful parts that hold up to abuse, but you have to test the material.

Being ABS, this suffers the same level of warping and shrinking as any other ABS material in 3d printing. You need a solid heat bed that can get to 100°C to even consider printing this and cold spots in your heat bed or lack of warm air during a print can cause shrinking, recommend having an enclosure around your printer as well as a decent heat bed to even consider printing ABS. That aside, this specific color does appear to be a little more difficult to work with than the black, grey, and white ABS that I've had from the same company. Temperature tolerances are much lower on this specific color and so printing above 210°C has caused printing quality issues as well as burned filament. Occasionally I'll just have blobs or streaks of brown as if the filament had been sitting in the hot end too long but never had the same issue with the white filament.

I did some serious dial-in testing with my prints (photos included to show progress) because out of the box I struggled to get any form of decent bridging or overhang. For some reason this material oozed like hell and was especially apparent when trying to bridge even small gaps. It's not consistent with flow rate and actually had worse blob issues with decreased flow rate. I have my finalized settings below, but after about 30-40 extreme bridging tests I was able to understand the tolerances of this material. Unfortunately I had some issues with first layer adhesion as well and I'm not sure if this is related to the color and dye used or not, but using a brim of 2mm has almost entirely eliminated all first layer issues. Settings I landed on are below, your mileage may vary so I recommend doing temperature and bridge tests if you have issues.

Slicer: PrusaSlicer 2.3.0
Printer: Prusa Mini (DIY, not official)
Enclosure: Yes
First layer temperature: 235°C
Every other layer temperature: 210°C
Heatbed: 100°C (All Layers)
Bridge fan speed: 75%
Normal cooling fan: 25% (always on)
Bridge print speed: 25mm/s
Bridge flow rate: 0.75

depending on what printer you have, go with pla.. although this brand is good