I've worked with Delrin for 15 years now everything from a wood lathe, a cnc machine and 3D printing. The biggest obstacle is it is glass filled. There is what they call Hospital Grade that prints much better. What is great about Delrin is you can polish it on a polishing wheel and get a mirror finish that you can see your reflection in. Warping can be reversed on the polishing wheel. I make magic props from Delrin, you can print a cup that is 1.65" at the top and has an opening of. 2.15" and jump up and down on them and they will not flex crack split or be damaged. It's a very non abrasive material so it doesn't eat up your nozzles or extruders. Once I check with my dealers about Hospital grade Delrin I will write more. Whats nice about hospital grade is they come in about 20 different colors, I will find us filament in Hospital Grade. If you get a dirty print do not SAND it, simply put it on a polishing wheel with plastic polish, any will work and you will have a mirror finish. I like Gizmo Dorks, it has never clogged and extrudes well. I've used 4 spools so far on the same nozzle and extruder and they are still printing very well. Thanks Gizmo, now give us the really good stuff.

Hi. I thought I would contribute my experience with using white POM in an Ultimaker Original+. Though this filament is very finicky, I am regularly and successfully printing parts using 100% cotton sheets of paper often used for resumes that is adhered to the glass bed using a generous slurry of watered down wood glue, perhaps at a 1:5 ratio of glue to water (though a more concentrated blend would only improve the adhesion of the paper to the glass). Bed is at 110C and printing at 225C. I had to set the initial layer temp to 240C in order for the filament to properly grab onto the cotton completely. I made an enclosure using oven bags and secured sheets of it to my printer using binder clips. The inside temperature is about 55C. I have the cooling fan turned on full after the first layer, which greatly improves the quality of the prints. Printing at 60mm/s at .1mm layer heights (first layer .3mm), which yields the best results on my printer. God bless.

Update 6/17/2017: Using a 2:1 concentration of water to glue for the cotton sheet. Works better. Had delamination printing at 225C with the fan on, so I now print at 240C and have little/no layer adhesion issues. Only issue is slight gooiness/stringiness on retraction moves but overall it prints well.

I was skeptical about purchasing pom as there is so little information online about its performance and usage but took the plunge and ordered the white and black both.
It's definitely not a filament for the novice maker and will exercise every trick an experienced maker has up his/her sleeve to get a good print with it.But well worth the time invested IMHO.
this stuff is unbelievably strong and I was impressed with alloy910.
Yeah its a pita to get to stick to anything but when it does forget separation of the items... Ain't happening with this stuff!.
The other reviewer was right on the money when suggesting a thick piece of paper glued to the mirror to get it to stay on the bed long enough for a print. I started out with notebook paper but it stretched a lot during printing , go a little wharping and opted for a thicker paper as suggested.
After gluing a sheet of 80lb sketch paper to the mirror with Elmer's purple glue...and after much temp testing i cranked up the bed to 105c and hotend down to 225c and printing was finally a success! Not the cleanest prints that I've produced... but a lot more than I expected when I purchased this stuff initially.
I had to put a heatshield of sorts around the white when printing in the chamber because it would start cracking in the outer layers at about 3 mm without something around it but the black can be printed fairly easily outside of the heated chamber and WITHOUT a heatshield around it but the surface finish is not the best concerning the black and layer height needs to remain above 50% of nozzle diameter or you will have delamination issues.
. the black pom has a smeared look to the lines on the surface after printung and petg shiny like appearance. Its pretty tough. I had to break out the channel locks to crack a small printed gear. Nice,semiflexible and strong. Just what I was looking for.
The smell is typical delrin and if you've ever milled or drilled into a piece of it then you know the smell I'm talking about. It may be too much for some but I used to machine delrin years ago everyday and I got used to the smell. As soon as the nozzle reached 200c...I could smell the familiar scent and brought back some memories.
The white is somewhat dull when printed but the surface finish is probably as good as a decent nylon or better, but its kind of brittle and prone to cracking and it smells like delrin but a lot less of delrin odor compared to the black. I'm still trying to dial in the white as I'm sure it can print stronger with a little tweaking
And I can work with all of that.
The picture im using a 0.4mm E3dv6 hotend.
My new dyzend-x has too large of a melt zone to extrude pom with a standard 0.4mm nozzle and this stuff just drips out all over causing a stringy mess . but the e3dv6 nozzle is the way to go with this stuff due to their advanced nozzle design and superior surface finish.
So far so good. I will update as I learn more about pom filament.

Don't buy Gizmo Dorks Acetal! It just becomes goop. Inconsistent form. I print in Polycarbonate and other exotic filaments. Gizmo Dorks is useless. The key to getting any filament to stick is its glass transition temperature (your heated bed plate can reach a few degrees below that temperature - mine is AC and SSR driven so it can). Acetal is just as tricky as Polycarbonate to get to stick to an HBP, but it is doable. I use both Lulzbot and E3D Titan extruders. Same goop result. Gizmo Dorks' Acetal is a waste money. You will regret purchasing it.

Well it will extrude fine but getting it to stick to anything well that's the trick!