I checked my ball joints and tie rods trying to figure out what was clunking. They were fine. Did a quick internet search on Kia clunking and instantly it pointed to this part. The dealer wanted $8 for the part and over $300 to install it. A lot of people will try to tell you that KIA will replace it under warranty but not all cars have that option. My 2012 is not one of those cars that KIA will do for free. So this part, how to videos online and a little bit of patience and I save myself 305 bucks. It took me about 2 hours on a Saturday morning to install. And now the car drives like a dream again.

I hate my car. Hate isn't a strong enough word for the contempt and loathing I have for my 2012 Hyundai Sonata. And just when I thought my hate for this car could not be greater, I found it has intensified even more following the pronounced "klunk" sound and weird steering I was just starting to experience. By virtue of Internet research I was able to determine that the MDPS bushing / coupler may have disintegrated inside its motor housing. The fix was to purchase this little star-like part for around $5.00. Great, you say? Well wait for the surprise you get from the dealer who will charge you from $200 - $400 to install it. That is, unless you are fortunate enough to fall under the "extended" warranty from Hyundai for this part (ten years or 100k miles). Needless to say my mileage was above that. Oh, and this is something that fails quite often in Hyundai and Kia cars from what I've read online. Love you Hyundai.

But I digress. After watching many movies, on the Internet, for how to replace the part yourself, I thought I would give it a try. I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. However, I have been able to do normal maintenance on my vehicles to keep them in good shape (my late, beloved, 2000 Chevrolet S-10 pickup had nearly 400k when it finally breathed its last). But otherwise I have no real special knowledge (or interest) in messing with my cars. I mention this to say that to replace this little part will not be as horrible as it might first sound / appear. Here's what I suggest:

1. Watch several different Internet videos on how to replace the part. BUT, be warned, not all videos are created equal nor are the cars similar. Some videos show that you need to almost disassemble and/or remove the steering column. Others do not. So watch several different to get a general idea of what you are looking for and how to deal with each assembly as you come across it.

In my case, I only had to remove some of the interior trim, unplug several wiring harnesses, and drop the steering column inside the driver's side area where the steering wheel rested on the seat. Nothing more.

2. Have the correct tools on hand. You WILL need a metric socket set and a T30 Torx socket or screwdriver (socket is much easier to use). I found that out watch the videos and made a trip to the hardware store to buy one before starting the project. Good thing I did.

Have a small brush and compressed air to clean the disintegrated part from the motor before replacing the part. This is extremely important.

Be sure to unhook your battery before taking any of the wiring apart.

3. Clean your work area before you start. Work in a methodical manner and keep screws for the various parts together. Work carefully when removing any of the wiring harnesses BEFORE dropping the steering column. Lay removed parts out in an order you can follow in reverse to put it back together.

I think that if you consider some of my suggestions you won't have to much trouble taking this little project on. I managed to do the entire process in under two hours (someone with automotive skill would be able to do this in much less time). I only got one skinned knuckle and did not, not even once, cuss while doing this operation as it was not as bad as I thought it would be. Quite an achievement if you had ever seen me deal with car issues in the past.

As for the APDTY part, there is little I can say at this point. The company does have one of the better videos online showing how to replace the part. It did fit inside the motor housing perfectly. My only concern is that I hope it is the newest version of the part and not a direct OEM copy of the flawed part that blew apart. I've attached a few pics of the motor and parts. Good luck!

Part works fine. I just wish the original ones didn't break.
They should recall every Sonota in the world to replace these cheap parts.
The steering is dangerous when this cheap part fails fail.

The cost to install this part is over $300 at a dealer garage.
So, I installed it myself.

A $5 dollar part that causes a dangerous situation and over $300 to replace in only 75,000 miles

THIS SHOULD BE A RECALLED REPAIR.

Worked perfectly for my 2013 Hyundai Sonata. I put up with the horrible metal-on-metal rattle for a year, then found a very helpful 30-minute YouTube video that took me through the whole repair. I avoided a $500 dealer repair by purchasing this and two other items. Total around $30. The entire repair took me 2 hours. If I had to do it again, it would probably take less than 1. I bought this coupler, a ratchet, and a bit (pictured) from Amazon. That's all you need besides a basic Philips screwdriver. The ratchet and bit are only needed to open the power steering column. I recommend some compressed air to blow out all the rubber shavings you might have. There are a couple ways to do this repair. I prefer the one I used, which does NOT involve dropping the steering column. Try to avoid that one.

Bought this part to fix the clunk/clicking in 2011 Hyundai Sonata. Worked perfectly....Easy fix. Watched the YouTube video on how to fix it myself....Saved hundreds vs. having a repair shop do it. Currently, it not a warranty fix or recall with Hyundai.... Even though it should be. I only have 40k miles on my car.