Ok here we go. Great product, Strong. and Heavy. Will last forever. After digging a trench, lined #4 rebar, bottom and sides. Then hooked everything together, then leveled it with a slight slope. Then poured concrete on the bottom and sides, this is a job you cant rush. Let it cure for 5 days. Now UPS and Fed-x can drive right over it and they don't budge. The only gripe with these gutters I have is that there expensive.

Great product

This product is solid and great quality, although the packaging was not so good, lucky for me the section that was damaged needed to be cut off anyway (to fit the drain). They probably should ship the cast iron parts separately and add a little padding to the plastic drain base (that was damaged at one end). The heavy cast grates bolted to the base during shipment were too much for the plastic and one section ( of three) was broken at one end (where it took a hit during shipment).

It installed in very well, the base has lots of reinforcements for concrete to flow into, and the cast iron grating is very strong. Once it's installed, you could drive a dump truck over this thing, Just to be sure I added lots of rebar to the concrete fill.

Update: installation tip:

Problem: 1. It was difficult to keep the trench drain assembly fully straight while pouring concrete.
2. The pressure of the concrete pour caused the plastic drain base to push in slightly, making it difficult to fit the cast iron grates in the drain base.

Solution:

I recommend removing the cast iron grates and temporarily fitting a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 plywood it their place; the ply should fit snugly and be the full length of the trench drain, drill small holes in the metal strips on top of the drain base and screw the plywood down (with deck or sheet metal screws).

The plywood will keep your drain straight and keep the sides (of the plastic drain base) from being pushed together by the inward force of the concrete pour. It will also keep concrete from falling into the plastic base, and finally, it will keep the cast iron grates free of splattering concrete.

Optional: fix additional strips of plywood perpendicular and on top of the aforementioned ply. This will hold the entire assembled drain flush to the pavement (where it is being installed) in your excavated ditch

If you pour all the concrete at once you may have to weight the drain assembly down so it doesn't float out of the ditch.(place blocks or concrete debris on the ply strips).

If the pavement surface is sloped on either side this may not work, you may have to scim the smaller ply strips (on one side) to get the assembled drain to lie even.

I learned this by trial and error, hope it works for you.

Aside from some packaging issues that were not the fault of the manufacturer, these drains are exactly as advertised. We needed to saw-cut through an existing concrete slab in order to install the drains and they were the perfect heavy-duty floor drains needed in this work shop remodel.

The best part? I had a couple of questions I felt like I needed answered quickly since my Plumbing guy was coming soon and concrete was scheduled to be poured soon.
I contacted standartpark through their webinar on New Years Day morning not expecting to hear from them until several days later.
Standartpark called me THAT MORNING and answered my questions very easily.

That is impressive customer service.