TOPGREENER TDOS5-W-2PCS Motion Sensor Light Switch, PIR in Wall Sensor Switch, Occupancy Sensor Light Switch 150W LED/CFL, 1/4HP, Wall Plates Included, Neutral Wire Required, White, 2 Pack








Key features
- •2-pack motion sensor switch detects motion to automatically turn lights on and off based on the occupancy and vacancy in a room
- •Sensor switch uses a passive infrared (PIR) sensor to reduce false triggers from unwanted movements
- •Occupancy switch mode (Auto ON, Auto OFF) and vacancy switch mode (Manual ON, Auto OFF) allow you to customize the sensor according to your needs
- •Light switch sensor features adjustable settings; variable time delay from 15 sec (Test) to 30 min; adjustable range
- •NEUTRAL WIRE REQUIRED, 314 square feet coverage, 180-degree field of view; 120VAC, 500W incandescent/halogen, 250W CFL/LED, 1/8HP motor; single pole only; 2x wall plates included; CA Title 20 & 24 compliant; UL listed; 1-year
TOPGREENER TDOS5-W-2PCS Motion Sensor Light Switch, PIR in Wall Sensor Switch, Occupancy Sensor Light Switch 150W LED/CFL, 1/4HP, Wall Plates Included, Neutral Wire Required, White, 2 Pack
List Price: $52.35$47.12DEALYou Save: $5.23 (10%)
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Customer Reviews
Reviews sourced from verified Amazon purchasers4.2
out of 5
Based on 10 reviews
5★
70%
4★
30%
3★
0%
2★
0%
1★
0%
Works great!
BarryL✓ Verified Purchase•February 8, 2018
Used for activating my laundry room light which in our house is at the bottom of steps in our split level home, accessed by a door. Had a lighted toggle switch there, but this is 10 times better. Now simply walking down steps activates light in laundry room, so that when we open door, light already on. Have timer set for 10 minutes, that works for us. Believe 5, 10, 20 and 30 minutes are options. Upon exiting room, we either just leave light on, auto off in 10 minutes, or sometimes hit button on switch to manually turn off. In this case, motion sensor seems to deactivate for a few minutes, then resets itself. That works well, giving us time to reach top of steps before re-triggering. There is a sensitivity control and two modes of operation. Had our switch been in the laundry room, versus on an outside entry, it would detect motion and light continually stay on movement stopped, then shut off in 10 minutes (or whatever you set off delay for). Highly recommend.
The Bingo Jackpot !
Zach•August 20, 2017
This is the one I've been looking for all along. Works perfectly with LED's. Must have a neutral wire in the outlet box too work. When it turns off
there is no blinking from led's they are definitely off. Sensor is easy to adjust both ambient light and range. Seems to be no minimum load requirement to work. I have 4 - 6 watt led's on this switch and it works perfectly. No humming from unit and no blinking of led's at all. This is not the unit to use if you have an old home with only 2 wires etc... Must have a ground, neutral, power lead and load lead to lights, if not this is not the unit you want. This as stated works with a neutral wire in outlet box and is perfect for led's as the unit shuts off both the power lead as well as the neutral lead so there is no current to the load lead to lights. It also works very well as a vacancy sensor - meaning you must push the switch to turn on the lights but it will shut them off after your predetermined time has expired. It will turn the lights back on ( if you are still in the room after it shuts off because it didn't sense movement even if you are there ) once movement has been detected up to several minutes after shut off. After trying 3 other brands this one has the best all around features and works ! Even the instructions are easy to follow. Nice too know there are still competent people making superior products instead of opportunists just out to make a buck.
there is no blinking from led's they are definitely off. Sensor is easy to adjust both ambient light and range. Seems to be no minimum load requirement to work. I have 4 - 6 watt led's on this switch and it works perfectly. No humming from unit and no blinking of led's at all. This is not the unit to use if you have an old home with only 2 wires etc... Must have a ground, neutral, power lead and load lead to lights, if not this is not the unit you want. This as stated works with a neutral wire in outlet box and is perfect for led's as the unit shuts off both the power lead as well as the neutral lead so there is no current to the load lead to lights. It also works very well as a vacancy sensor - meaning you must push the switch to turn on the lights but it will shut them off after your predetermined time has expired. It will turn the lights back on ( if you are still in the room after it shuts off because it didn't sense movement even if you are there ) once movement has been detected up to several minutes after shut off. After trying 3 other brands this one has the best all around features and works ! Even the instructions are easy to follow. Nice too know there are still competent people making superior products instead of opportunists just out to make a buck.
Dial Explanations Could Be Better
Allyson J.•August 5, 2017
If the dials were a little easier to understand, it would be a 5 star product. We installed this in our laundry room/mud room because, when you enter from our garage, the light switch is behind the door. So unless you leave the light on all day, you come in to a pitch black room. Occupancy sensor was the perfect solution, but there were a couple of hiccups.
Timing dial starts off at 15 seconds, but the next labeled line is 10 minutes, and there are only 2 lines in between. We didn't know where to set the timing. Finally, after a few tries, we got it to about one minute, which is perfect.
Range Dial is labeled 1-5 (I think), but it wasn't really clear what those numbers meant. I assumed the higher number meant a wider "line of sight" for the sensor, and that seems to hold true.
Brightness Dial was labeled in a similar manner to the Range Dial. Assuming the higher the number went, the brighter the light would be. However, I don't believe we have a dimmable bulb, so this dial didn't really apply.
Timing dial starts off at 15 seconds, but the next labeled line is 10 minutes, and there are only 2 lines in between. We didn't know where to set the timing. Finally, after a few tries, we got it to about one minute, which is perfect.
Range Dial is labeled 1-5 (I think), but it wasn't really clear what those numbers meant. I assumed the higher number meant a wider "line of sight" for the sensor, and that seems to hold true.
Brightness Dial was labeled in a similar manner to the Range Dial. Assuming the higher the number went, the brighter the light would be. However, I don't believe we have a dimmable bulb, so this dial didn't really apply.
I would not suggest putting them in rooms like a bedroom
The 3 little Umipigs✓ Verified Purchase•July 10, 2017
I installed these in various rooms throughout our house to try and save some money on forgetting to shut off the lights. A few key tips. Make sure you get the right type, with or without the neutral. I would not suggest putting them in rooms like a bedroom. I put one in my infant sons room and even when I turned the sensitivity way down, every time he would stand up In his crib, the light would come on. Even if I had manually turned it off after leaving. I love them in the laundry room, office and closets as I usually have stuff in my hands when entering these rooms and it keeps me from having to flip a switch. My sons closet light doesn't end up staying on all day and same with the office. I have had these installed for about a month, if I see anything different long term I will update my review. Right now, my husband and I are loving them!
Motion Detection switch that just works but watch warranty claims
The WB✓ Verified Purchase•December 30, 2016
As part of my home automation project, I purchased a number of WiFi controlled switches to operate lights while I am away. I was planning to put one of these WiFi switches in one closet, but the cost versus the benefit of doing so was lacking. I also had a programmable one in mind, but this switch was a better alternative for this specific application.
My house was built in 2014. It has a neutral wire in the box thanks to a fuse box full of AFCI (Arc fault) circuit breakers. I wanted to avoid another connection break and add another wire to the neutral bundle already in the box if possible. This neutral wire free Passive Infrared (PIR) switch was my solution.
What I like:
* No neutral wire required, but a ground wire is required
* Line/Load connections are interchangeable -- eliminate guesswork as to which black wire (Hot) is which
* Same size as the bulky builder installed rocker switch I replaced
* The switch is mounted on the adjoining wall next to the door
* It picks me up as soon as I cross the door threshold
* Adjustable sensitivity for the PIR detector for a small, medium and large size rooms, up to 800 sq. ft.
* Adjustable time on - from 30 seconds (test mode) to 30 minutes
* No minimum wattage required -- I have two (2) 8 watt LED bulbs attached.
* No flicker or strobing from this low wattage use application
* You can also manually switch this unit on and off
* The manual switch button is located at the bottom of the switch
* The included switch plate works, but it was smaller than the original switch plate used with my old switch -- covers the drywallers mistakes better
* Wire nuts and switch plate screws are included
I do not use vacation mode. I use occupied mode all the time. It is nice -- walk in and the motion detector picks me up, turns on the light and keeps it on for 3 minutes (or whatever time you pre-program in) after I leave the closet. I don't have to think about turning off the light. It is truly -- set-n-forget!
I'm going to put one in the upstairs guest closet in the very near future.
One other review talked about idle wattage used, or put another way, the constant power sucking or "Vampire Effect" of this switch as compared to other PIR switches. The reviewer went into great detail about how much electricity was used over a given period of time. That same reviewer has a valid point, but to drone on about it for a half page with some flawed calculations is a bit excessive.
Irrespective of this switches Vampire Effect, PIR sensors will use power to keep the PIR activated. It is unavoidable, but it is not excessive. That same power usage argument can also be used regarding any WiFi or WiFi Hub switch you activate remotely via a web app. If it adds a dollar or so a year to your electric bill, I look at it as a cost of having the convenience of a reasonable priced PIR switch that I don't have to activate each and every time I go into my closet. To me, this switch is truly set and forget and I don't worry about the nominal increase in current draw at idle.
One final point of clarification and to bring focus regarding real world practicality -- there was a $20.00 difference in price between the web activated switch i was going to install and this one. Based upon the other reviewers flawed calculations at $1.00/year of additional cost in this specific switch's electricity usage by means of the Vampire Effect, I will start to lose money in just over 20 years down the road, if this switch is not replaced or upgraded in the interim. That is the cold financial reality when you do the math.
Excessive vs. necessary power usage in your application is the choice only you can answer. If minor Vampire Effect concerns you, then this and other remote activation switches are not for you and you should keep your traditional on/off switch to avoid this additional expense.
Having a PIR switch in rooms that you enter with hands full only makes sense. I can recommend this switch without reservation.
*******
02/10/2017 - Update
I doubled down on this switch and purchased a second one being TOPGREENER Occupancy Motion Sensor Switch TDOS5, 500 Watts Single-Pole Free Wall Plate NEUTRAL REQUIRED, White. This one came up on Lightning Deal and I purchased it. This switch requires a neutral wire, which my home has.
I installed this switch in the downstairs powder room. Unlike the non-neutral wire switch I talked about above, this one has tagged Line and Load wiring. Not difficult to connect correctly after you dig all of the wires out of the electrical box. After installing (all of 10 minutes) and configuring it, this switch just works.
My wife loves these switches -- having arms full of laundry, there is no more fumbling around to turn on the laundry room light. Cross the threshold of the laundry room doorway and "on" goes the light. Moving around inside the laundry room keeps the light activated. Even with the dryer running, we have not experienced any false triggers due to the heat given off by the dryer.
Same for the powder room light switch. Cross the threshold and on comes the light. Now, I have to buy one for the powder room fan.
This switch is truly a set-n-forget operation.
Next lightning deal purchase . . . . . powder room fan?
*******
05/29/2017 -- Update
Five (5) more switches, a combo of neutral required and non-neutral wire required switches. Here is where I have installed them:
* 2 in guest room closets for lights
* 1 in the laundry room for the light
* 2 in the downstairs powder room - one (1) for light and one (1) for fan
* 1 in Master bath for fan
* 1 in guest bath for fan
Seven (7) switches in total. They all work as represented. I have yet to have a false trigger or a failure to turn on/off as programmed.
People have commented about this automation project and several have made the upgrade in their homes. An inexpensive enhancement that will service you for years.
*******
08/20/2017 - Update
Had one switch go bad. The switch would turn on, but would never turn off. Tried to reset, adjust it out but nothing worked. Warranty time.
Here is where it turned into a real process. Emailed the company through their website -- total waste of time. Did it after hours on Friday, received a "out of office" response, but no follow up from CS. Come the following Wednesday, emailed them through Amazon. Responded within 3 hours. Several more emails and received an email with RMA # and shipping label. Shipped to Southern California, I live in Las Vegas, NV.
Sent to the company the next day. My RMA fell into the abyss over the holiday weekend.
Following up, they located my return and shipped (by slowest means possible) my replacement, which took almost a week to receive -- So Cal to Las vegas, NV. In total, over three (3) weeks time to get a warranty replacement for a switch that went bad. The replacement works just fine, along with the balance of the switches installed.
These switches work good, but if you have one go bad, be prepared for a lot of follow-up and waiting on your part for your replacement. CS is lacking from this company.
My house was built in 2014. It has a neutral wire in the box thanks to a fuse box full of AFCI (Arc fault) circuit breakers. I wanted to avoid another connection break and add another wire to the neutral bundle already in the box if possible. This neutral wire free Passive Infrared (PIR) switch was my solution.
What I like:
* No neutral wire required, but a ground wire is required
* Line/Load connections are interchangeable -- eliminate guesswork as to which black wire (Hot) is which
* Same size as the bulky builder installed rocker switch I replaced
* The switch is mounted on the adjoining wall next to the door
* It picks me up as soon as I cross the door threshold
* Adjustable sensitivity for the PIR detector for a small, medium and large size rooms, up to 800 sq. ft.
* Adjustable time on - from 30 seconds (test mode) to 30 minutes
* No minimum wattage required -- I have two (2) 8 watt LED bulbs attached.
* No flicker or strobing from this low wattage use application
* You can also manually switch this unit on and off
* The manual switch button is located at the bottom of the switch
* The included switch plate works, but it was smaller than the original switch plate used with my old switch -- covers the drywallers mistakes better
* Wire nuts and switch plate screws are included
I do not use vacation mode. I use occupied mode all the time. It is nice -- walk in and the motion detector picks me up, turns on the light and keeps it on for 3 minutes (or whatever time you pre-program in) after I leave the closet. I don't have to think about turning off the light. It is truly -- set-n-forget!
I'm going to put one in the upstairs guest closet in the very near future.
One other review talked about idle wattage used, or put another way, the constant power sucking or "Vampire Effect" of this switch as compared to other PIR switches. The reviewer went into great detail about how much electricity was used over a given period of time. That same reviewer has a valid point, but to drone on about it for a half page with some flawed calculations is a bit excessive.
Irrespective of this switches Vampire Effect, PIR sensors will use power to keep the PIR activated. It is unavoidable, but it is not excessive. That same power usage argument can also be used regarding any WiFi or WiFi Hub switch you activate remotely via a web app. If it adds a dollar or so a year to your electric bill, I look at it as a cost of having the convenience of a reasonable priced PIR switch that I don't have to activate each and every time I go into my closet. To me, this switch is truly set and forget and I don't worry about the nominal increase in current draw at idle.
One final point of clarification and to bring focus regarding real world practicality -- there was a $20.00 difference in price between the web activated switch i was going to install and this one. Based upon the other reviewers flawed calculations at $1.00/year of additional cost in this specific switch's electricity usage by means of the Vampire Effect, I will start to lose money in just over 20 years down the road, if this switch is not replaced or upgraded in the interim. That is the cold financial reality when you do the math.
Excessive vs. necessary power usage in your application is the choice only you can answer. If minor Vampire Effect concerns you, then this and other remote activation switches are not for you and you should keep your traditional on/off switch to avoid this additional expense.
Having a PIR switch in rooms that you enter with hands full only makes sense. I can recommend this switch without reservation.
*******
02/10/2017 - Update
I doubled down on this switch and purchased a second one being TOPGREENER Occupancy Motion Sensor Switch TDOS5, 500 Watts Single-Pole Free Wall Plate NEUTRAL REQUIRED, White. This one came up on Lightning Deal and I purchased it. This switch requires a neutral wire, which my home has.
I installed this switch in the downstairs powder room. Unlike the non-neutral wire switch I talked about above, this one has tagged Line and Load wiring. Not difficult to connect correctly after you dig all of the wires out of the electrical box. After installing (all of 10 minutes) and configuring it, this switch just works.
My wife loves these switches -- having arms full of laundry, there is no more fumbling around to turn on the laundry room light. Cross the threshold of the laundry room doorway and "on" goes the light. Moving around inside the laundry room keeps the light activated. Even with the dryer running, we have not experienced any false triggers due to the heat given off by the dryer.
Same for the powder room light switch. Cross the threshold and on comes the light. Now, I have to buy one for the powder room fan.
This switch is truly a set-n-forget operation.
Next lightning deal purchase . . . . . powder room fan?
*******
05/29/2017 -- Update
Five (5) more switches, a combo of neutral required and non-neutral wire required switches. Here is where I have installed them:
* 2 in guest room closets for lights
* 1 in the laundry room for the light
* 2 in the downstairs powder room - one (1) for light and one (1) for fan
* 1 in Master bath for fan
* 1 in guest bath for fan
Seven (7) switches in total. They all work as represented. I have yet to have a false trigger or a failure to turn on/off as programmed.
People have commented about this automation project and several have made the upgrade in their homes. An inexpensive enhancement that will service you for years.
*******
08/20/2017 - Update
Had one switch go bad. The switch would turn on, but would never turn off. Tried to reset, adjust it out but nothing worked. Warranty time.
Here is where it turned into a real process. Emailed the company through their website -- total waste of time. Did it after hours on Friday, received a "out of office" response, but no follow up from CS. Come the following Wednesday, emailed them through Amazon. Responded within 3 hours. Several more emails and received an email with RMA # and shipping label. Shipped to Southern California, I live in Las Vegas, NV.
Sent to the company the next day. My RMA fell into the abyss over the holiday weekend.
Following up, they located my return and shipped (by slowest means possible) my replacement, which took almost a week to receive -- So Cal to Las vegas, NV. In total, over three (3) weeks time to get a warranty replacement for a switch that went bad. The replacement works just fine, along with the balance of the switches installed.
These switches work good, but if you have one go bad, be prepared for a lot of follow-up and waiting on your part for your replacement. CS is lacking from this company.
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