I have a MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015), model A1502, MacBookPro12,1. Since macOS 10.13 High Sierra, Apple has supported NVMe drives. Depending on your model, it can be easy to swap out. For my model, I needed an m.2 to apple 12+16 pin adapter (~$10, just make sure you get one that is shipping from the US or else you might have to wait a long time). Instructions for SSD replacement are on iFixit. Booted from a High Sierra bootable USB stick, and Disk Utility recognized and was able to format the drive right away. I restored my files from a network Time Machine backup (no issues). I chose the 960 EVO over the newer 970 EVO because it was much cheaper (299 after 2018 prime day), and my specific laptop only has PCIe 2.0 x4, so a bit of googling suggested I would already be maxing out the link speed with the 960.

To address two potential issues that have been variably reported elsewhere: With this combo, I did NOT have to use any linux utilities, but I DID need to switch the sleep setting to "hibernate" mode 25, from mac laptop default "safe sleep" mode 3, in order to avoid the "flashing question mark folder" crash upon waking from sleep.

UPdate:
PCIe x4 nvme expansion card connected to the NorthBridge increased the read speed by about 20%. Now 1.72 GBs read and 1.51 GBs write speed. This is probably the maximum speed that PCIe 2.0 will ever reach. The RX470 performs the same at x8 as it did at x16 so adding the x4 expansion card in the second x16 (x8 with both x16 used) did not affect the video speed. Still 100% satisfied.
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Functions as expected. It is attached to a PCIe 2.0 x4 M.2 socket that is connected to a 950 southbridge so it is limited to about 75% of the a3 link (max 2.0 GBs) due to all the other devices being attached to the SB (14 usb 2.0, 6 SATA3, GB network, PCI etc.). So I expected a maximum read speed maximum of about 1.5 GBs.

Another person with the same motherboard posted a much lower score and that is probably due to their PC being configured improperly. My case is just about maxed out with 2 SSD, 4 HDD, PCIe hdd/usb3 controller for the DVD, Samsung 960 M.2, and RX470. MB and Video are overclocked for new games 5GHZ+ and 15%, older games 4.9GHZ and 5%. Older games have problems when the CPU is over 4.9 GHZ or video over 9.5%. New games run just fine at 5 GHZ and 15%.

Samsung's program shows 1.4 GBs read and 1.3 GBs write with IOPS 115k and 101K.
Crystalmark shows a similar benchmark 1.4 GBs read and 1.3 GBs write.

Only way to get it to function faster is with a PICe add-in card so that it would be attached to the nothbridge. It would probably function at 90%+ of the pcie 2.0 x4 capacity of 2GBs. There is no way to get PCIe 3.0 speed of 4GBs (3.2 actual) from a PCIe 2.0 connection. An impractical solution to getting a faster data transfer rate would be to purchase a PCIe 2.0 x8 raid controller and attach 8 0.5GBs SSDs running in a Stripe 0 configuration (is that possible?).

I am very satisfied with the 1.3GBs speed of the Samsung 960.

PC:
ASUS 970 Pro Gaming/Aura ATX DDR3 AM3+
FX-8370
ARCTIC Liquid Freezer 240
Enermax Ostrog ADV Mid Tower Computer Case with Revolution DUO 700W 80 PLUS GOLD Power Supply inside (Limited Edition), ECA3380AS-BL(w/PSU)
ASUS PCE-AC55BT B1 Wireless-AC1200 Bluetooth 4.2 PCIe/mPCIe adapter
ADATA XPG V1 DDR3 2133MHz (PC3 17000) 16GB (8GBx2) Memory Modules, Red (AX3U2133W8G10-DR)
PowerColor AMD Radeon RED DEVIL RX 480 4GB GDDR5 DL-DVI-D / HDMI / DP x3 PCI-Express 3.0 Graphics Card
Samsung 960 EVO Series - 250GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 Internal SSD (MZ-V6E250BW)
Transcend 4-port PCI Express USB/Serial ATA Combo Adapter

Ordered 2.
Received one with M PCIe connector (one notch) and other with B+M (2 notch)(slower SATA) connector.
Both labeled (with stickers) as:
SAME P/N: MZVLW1T0HALR (this should be with a faster M PCIe x4 connector, but one is B+M SATA connector)
One SSD has green circuit board, other has brown/black board, and ICs look different.
Model of Both: MZ V6E1T0 ("M" has 2017.11 after, and "B+M" has 2017.10 after - production month ?)
Difference in PSID Numbers:
PSID of B+M: SDA1Y31ZZ5ZCYEU93ZYBT92JH4GJP8Q6
PSID of M: QLR909Q91U7BHVWKU5S7CJMYBEN03D1H
Crazy that P/N is the Same for different interfaces.
Says M.2 (2280) - PCIe 3.0 x4 NVM Express SSD for Client PCs,
Sequential Read Speeds up to 3200MB/s and Sequential Write Speeds up to 1900MB/s.
Looks like the B+M interface is SATA slower, not to those specs ??
(one would think B+M would suggest B or M speeds, but articles online say it is only for connector, and is slower SATA-only speed).
Bottom line is, I ordered 2 same, and received 2 different, with one apparently slower (B+M) but Charged Same price.
Amazon Prime member. Will update to report how Amazon Resolves.

I'm using this in a new build to replace my 10 year old system (i7-920, P6t mobo), and it works great. You gotta love the instant startup from an SSD. Even cooler is how fast you can run your antivirus. It takes longer for it to check for updates than it does to run a scan. I loaded the OS on the SSD and use a regular Hard Drive for storing everything else. There's a Setting page in Windows to pick where you want to store music, documents, etc, on C:\(your SSD) or on D:\(your hard drive). Or you can just right click on those folders>Properties>Location and change C:\ to D:\.

Here's a few things you need to look out for if you are unfamiliar with SSDs as I was.
- You have to insert it ALL the way into the M.2 slot, even though the screw hole is lined up ready for the screw. If you can still see the gold pins at the slot, it's not far enough in. I spent hours trying to figure why it didn't show up in the BIOS.
- You will have to go to Disk Management and right click it to put a 'New Simple Volume' on it, and format it. I had to watch several videos before I found one that explained that.
- When I tried to install Win10, it kept saying it can't install because this drive was GPT, so back to youtube to figure that out. Turns out you want it to be GPT but until you set the BIOS to load optional UEFI settings, the BIOS tells Windows you need Legacy settings on your drive, (you don't want that). I finally found a "load UEFI default settings" in my BIOS and then it worked.
- After installing Windows the start screen kept asking me to choose which volume to boot from (huh?). Turns out that if you have a hard drive plugged in, Windows has a mind of it's own and ignores that you set the SSD to 1st boot priority. It puts the "Management Boot" on your hard drive and the rest of Windows on the SSD. (Freakin' Microsoft). Soooo, unplug all hard drives leaving only the SSD, and reinstall Windows, again.

Btw, when Windows puts a partition on your hard drive that you don't want, you can't just format it to make it go away. You have to go to Disk Management, find the partition, right click it and look for "Delete Volume." Then afterwards, right click it again for "New Simple Volume" and a Wizard box will pop up and guide you from there.

I'm using this in a new build to replace my 10 year old system (i7-920, P6t mobo), and it works great. You gotta love the instant startup from an SSD. Even cooler is how fast you can run your antivirus. It takes longer for it to check for updates than it does to run a scan. I loaded the OS on the SSD and use a regular Hard Drive for storing everything else. There's a Setting page in Windows to pick where you want to store music, documents, etc, on C:\(your SSD) or on D:\(your hard drive). Or you can just right click on those folders>Properties>Location and change C:\ to D:\.

Here's a few things you need to look out for if you are unfamiliar with SSDs as I was.
- You have to insert it ALL the way into the M.2 slot, even though the screw hole is lined up ready for the screw. If you can still see the gold pins at the slot, it's not far enough in. I spent hours trying to figure why it didn't show up in the BIOS.
- You will have to go to Disk Management and right click it to put a 'New Simple Volume' on it, and format it. I had to watch several videos before I found one that explained that.
- When I tried to install Win10, it kept saying it can't install because this drive was GPT, so back to youtube to figure that out. Turns out you want it to be GPT but until you set the BIOS to load optional UEFI settings, the BIOS tells Windows you need Legacy settings on your drive, (you don't want that). I finally found a "load UEFI default settings" in my BIOS and then it worked.
- After installing Windows the start screen kept asking me to choose which volume to boot from (huh?). Turns out that if you have a hard drive plugged in, Windows has a mind of it's own and ignores that you set the SSD to 1st boot priority. It puts the "Management Boot" on your hard drive and the rest of Windows on the SSD. (Freakin' Microsoft). Soooo, unplug all hard drives leaving only the SSD, and reinstall Windows, again.

Btw, when Windows puts a partition on your hard drive that you don't want, you can't just format it to make it go away. You have to go to Disk Management, find the partition, right click it and look for "Delete Volume." Then afterwards, right click it again for "New Simple Volume" and a Wizard box will pop up and guide you from there.