Was told about product to trap squash bettles. Product worked very well. The sticky material is a great help even though its hard to get off your hand. No butterflies were caught which is great.

What's not to love about this stuff? It does exactly what you expect, and then some.

I am using it indoors. I had never used it before, or anything like it, so my primary concern was toxicity and off gassing inside a living space. It turns out that there is nothing whatsoever to be concerned of. I'm not saying you should eat it, but besides that it's completely safe for indoor use.

My issue is bed bugs. My personal preference is to stay away from toxic chemicals, which leaves natural and non-toxic alternatives. Such as diatomaceous earth and sticky pads. Both of which work great, but do come with inherent limitations. Like the fact that it takes a few minutes to a few hours for the critter to die off once it's been exposed. Unfortunately, if you're dealing with a pregnant critter that leaves them enough time to squirt out their eggs leaving you yet another generation of pests to deal with.

Regardless of what you might read on the bottles, there is no such thing as instant bed bug eradication. They are just too small and they can hide virtually anywhere. So there is simply no way to hunt them all down before they bite you.

FYI, it's the egg-laying you should be worried about, not the biting.

So here's the trick. They hunt by sensing your body heat and your exhaled breath. Which is why they seem to focus on your bed area, because after all it's the one place were you remain relatively still for up to eight hours a day. Then consider the fact that they can cross any room in your house in less than 20 minutes. So instead of trying to avoid them, allow yourself to become their bait. But what they don't know, and can never prepare for, is that you have laid a trap from which there is no escape. It's really the only way that works: instead of going to them, have a plan for when they come to you.

Here's what I did. I took a roll of 2" wide double sided carpet tape and used it to cover the baseboards and room corners around the footprint of my queen size bed. I also laid a couple of strips directly under the bed. I was very generous with the placement of the tape, and used up about 70 of the 90 ft roll. The idea is to create a barrier which any bug would have to cross in order to reach their meal.

I then used a cheap disposable plastic putty knife, and slathered the tape with the Tanglefoot mixture. The result is a sticky barrier that a small dog would have trouble walking through, much less a pea sized bed bug.

I also use bed bug coaster traps filled with diatomaceous earth under the four bed posts. Which make a fantastic kill trap, but are not instant and do not necessarily prevent the bed bugs from traveling further. It does guarantee a kill, but it does not guarantee an instant kill. The trick here is to be very generous with the DE so that the bug is guaranteed full exposure to the powder. The better the exposure, the quicker the kill.

Between the sticky barrier and the bed bug coaster traps, about all that is left are bugs that might accidentally fall from the ceiling. So in other words, I feel at this point I am 99% protected. I know the bugs are still here, and I know they are still hunting me, but I also know what waits for them when they finally get hungry enough to head my way.

This stuff WORKS!! I have an olive tree that the leaf-cutter ants have been attacking since 2006, Many different ant colonies have discovered it and sometimes I will have a full on attack 6 times a year. In all past years I have had to go outside at about 11pm to see if any ants are coming up and over my block wall to strip the tree. If I'm not vigilant, thousands of leaves are clipped. I have to spray them with Hot Shot concentrate and follow the ants all the way back to where the nest begins to kill the entire army. Six weeks later the larvae in the nest hatch and attack it again. Then I kill THOSE and the colony is dead. But there are other colonies and sometimes they come from 50 yards away. For me, this has been a nightmare!!! UNTIL I FOUND TREE TANGLEFOOT.

Since I put it on my tree 3 months ago --- ZERO ants. Here is how to PROPERLY install it. You need two people. First you wind it around the tree trunk or the smaller limbs above a few times making the wrinkled paper winding about 6 inches wide. Don't wind it just the width of the paper wrap. Make it 3 times wider and SECURE IT WITH PLASTIC TIE straps --- Zip ties I think they are called. One at each edge and one in the middle. I had to put two long zip ties together to go around the limbs. You may even need 3. This is why you need two people. One has to hold the paper wrapping tight while the other places the zip ties in place and pulls them tight.

Next--- you do NOT use some dumb tool to spread the sticky stuff. It makes too much of a mess and is hard to control the stick stuff from running. What you DO is go get two latex gloves, put them on and dip your fingers in to pull out maybe a tablespoon of the sticky stuff and gently smear it on evenly all over the surface of the secured paper wrap. Keep it thin but not too thin because this stuff will run. This is the easy part. If you do it with a tool like they show--- it a real pain to control the thickness and gobs of it plop on the ground.

I've had several rain storms and it still looks like new because of the plastic tie straps hold so well. You will probably have re-coat it again 3 months later depending on the blowing dust, dirt and debris blowing around, but using the latex gloves, it only takes about 5 minutes. Do NOT re-wrap the tree with new paper.

I just wanted to share this with you because of the horror show I faced before finding TREE TANGLEFOOT. Apply it my way and it's easy as pie. Their way---- it another horror show

To those asking YES this stops lantern fly damage when used at the right time and in concert with other measures. Get the large bucket if you have several trees. Use the plastic tree wrap and not the Tanglefoot version. Cheaper and more effective. I wrap the plastic wrap around several times and apply the Tanglefoot with a painter's scrapper or stick. It's messy. Start at the top and use about 12 inches. At the bottom use one of the slippery tape tree wraps. This has to be done in spring to block the nymphs. Use this method on the trees that flower late to keep the nymphs off. Make sure other trees nearby are not providing an alternate path up. If you have rose bushes or berries or early fruiting/flowering trees use the Monterey LG 6274 Fruit Tree & Vegetable Systemic Soil Drench Treatment. That actually works better BUT you kill bees and birds if you use it BEFORE fruiting is done.

I have black walnuts that flower and fruit all year. I use this on those. I use the Soil drench on any trees or shrubs that might get the pests past my walnuts OR bread nymphs that become full flies (Those won't get stopped by this) later. Dead Nymphs are everywhere. Especially in my pool unfortunately.

Non polluting way to stop the beetles and worms going up the trees to mature and mate.