I converted my garage door to a high lift to take advantage of my 12' ceilings and a car lift. Getting the traditional pull-bar opener out of the way was key to that. Once I got my tracks and door reconfigured, this opener install was a piece of cake. Easier to install than the traditional type of opener though there are more wire hookups to deal with due to the cable tension sensor and the auto lock device.

I was replacing a Liftmaster opener and hoped to reuse the bottom door sensors, but they didn't work properly with this opener and I had to install the new ones. Could've been because the old ones were about 15 years old. They looked different, so I'm assuming the tech changed.

For tech assistance and understanding how to adjust a torsion bar door, I found DDM Garage Door's website to be very helpful. That's where I got the kit to convert to high lift and they have good instructions on dealing with the springs and making adjustments for regular doors, too.

The MyQ stuff works fine for me. I'm not trying to integrate with other smart home stuff, but the app works to open and close the door, and Amazon Key works fine as well.

The instructions for programming additional openers could be better. It's confusing, and the text and pictures don't agree. Following the instructions in the manual, I understood it to say press the Learn button on the wall control twice and look for a red light, and then press the button on the new remote. But all that did was flash a yellow light, and put the opener into WiFi learning mode. I had to climb up to the opener and hit the rectangle button to cancel the WiFi mode. Then I used the square Learn button on the opener itself to learn a new remote. Programming my Homelink button in my 2017 Mazda CX-5 was easy, tho. Didn't have to hit the Learn button on the opener for that.

I gave Motion Detection 4 stars simply because it only senses motion at the wall control, and not from the opener itself. My wall controls don't face the main part of the garage, (they're perpendicular to the people door) and so don't sense me moving around once I'm out there. So the light keeps turning off. I've had other openers that had a sensor on the opener, and that worked better for keeping the light on.

But overall, it's a great opener and when my other two die, I'd happily replace them with this, or perhaps the RJ020 model since I won't need more hubs.

Needed this to have extra headroom in the garage. Install was easy. Directions easy to follow. Opener works great and is super quiet. A+

This is a nice opener. Fairly easy to install. It can be opened/closed with a phone app.

There is one very important consideration to keep in mind. These wall mounted openers are connected to the rod the cable drums are on. When the garage door is lowered the whole setup relies on the weight of the garage door to keep the cable tight on the drum. If you have a light door the opener can unspool the cable faster than the door can keep tension on it. This can cause the cable to jump from its drum and create a tangled mess and jam the door. I was having this problem on a 7x16 uninsulated door. On the advice of the local garage door company I bolted a 16-foot 2x6 to the bottom section of the door to add weight. I haven't had any issues since.

I've installed the Chamberlain Jack (torsion) Shaft style garage door opener to replace an old Wayne
Dalton I-Drive Torsion Bar opener that I've kept going for about 14 or so years. So far the unit
RJO20 unit appears to be working well.

I've had, installed and used belt and chain drive units but like the torsion bar drive units that
don't require a belt or chain track. My challenge was that I didn't have enough space for the RJO20
drive unit that fits on the end of the torsion bar.

I remedied this space issue by creating a small (~ 4.5" deep, 15" wide and 19" tall) extension on the wall of the wood frame / wood siding garage. Needed enough space in front of the motor unit to allow access through the front panel to make wiring connections. I have a pretty wide eave on the garage and the projection is on the NNW facing wall.
I'll still need to paint the 'box' once it warms up. I installed this in January 2020 in Northern Wisconsin.

The installation went reasonably well but there were a few issues. Be sure you have adequate clearances
before ordering the unit (e.g. by looking at the manual on-line) to assure you have or have the ability make
any additional clearance. I was already aware of my space issues before the purchase.

The prep. work involved removing any old prior opener and making sure you have 2 needed
outlets: Need one at less than 6 ft. away from the motor control unit, and one above the garage bay to attach
the wireless light unit past where the door is suspended on the tracks. The light has a cord as well.
The other prep. work noted was to assure that the garage door torsion / cable system is well adjusted. They recommend any needed adjustments be made by a professional. The unit is only usable for torsion bar style doors.

The red/white 20 ga wire supplied for the controller wasn't long enough so it needed to be spliced.
There was a lot of excess wire available for the safety sensors that could be used with small wire nuts.
My situation was the garage has two bays and the inside entry door where the control panel was mounted
was at the other end and side from where the motor unit was mounted.

The provided staples didn't seem sufficient in number and were difficult to install, though using needle nose
pliers would help to hold them when hammering them in. I prefer to use T25 wire staples on wire wrapped
with short piece of electrical tape to protect the wire.

An interesting item is that the shaft on the motor unit is over 1.25 inches in diameter and its inside diameter
is greater than one inch so the torsion bar shaft can slide inside and be longer if you still have sufficient
space to slide the motor unit onto the torsion shaft / coupling. It isn't necessary to shorten the shaft if you have sufficient space. I needed to take off an inch since I had minimal extra space in my wall 'pocket.'

If possible, try to complete the process of mounting the motor units, the sensors and its control panel without opening the door. If you must open the door part way through the install process, either make sure the motor unit isn't on the torsion shaft, or make sure it is bolted onto the shaft, is anchored, and you've operated the emergency release. If not, moving the door could result in issues with the cables.

I also needed to provide extra space for the door lock that was a little over 7 inches long. It is a bit longer
than it appears in the website images.

Be sure that the all wires going to the remote systems (protector sensors, tension monitor, and control panel) are connected before trying to set the door limits, etc.. In my case, the wire to the controller had come loose, so it wasn't possible to do the limit set step until this was reconnected.

The opener door system operates a little more slowly than a belt drive unit but still appears to work well.
This is mainly due to an initial pause for the door to be unlocked before the door starts moving. Otherwise
it appears to operate at a similar speed to a belt drive unit.

The RJO20 unit / system is NOT connected to the internet by using your own wifi system. It must be connected using the provided Ethernet connected internet gateway. For me this was actually quite convenient as I had an Ethernet switch (connected to the home router with Ethernet cables through a series of switches) with an available port right next to the motor unit (also used for web cameras). Once installed you only need to note the gateway serial number and note this when connecting with the phone MyQ app. I already had this app from a recently installed belt drive unit. I found this easier than the wifi setup a belt drive chamberlain unit, but I was fortunate in having an Ethernet switch with available ports right there.

I was disappointed that this kit did not contain a wireless keypad for outside entry. This does come with the
belt drive units that I've gotten previously. It can be purchased separately for about $35 or so. The garage door opener's learn button is on the wall mounted control panel; it is not on the motor unit.

Another issue is that the mfr. only wants you to use incandescent light bulbs or compact fluorescent lights (CFL) due to possible interference issues with using LED lamps. In our climate here, the CFL's work poorly in winter requiring a long time before they reach full illumination. Supposedly regular LED bulbs can adversely effect the radio signals that the units use to communicate with each other and with your car garage door opener. There are some LED bulbs marketed as OK for this use (by another opener mfr.). Supposedly the FCC Part 15 requirements mean that shouldn't happen. It may be that some LED bulbs work and others don't. If you're having trouble getting the car's homelink systems working, try using different bulbs in the opener's lights.

The more expensive RJO70 that has a battery back up is a newer design unit that apparently connects via wifi as well as having an LED illuminated overhead light. It too lacks an outside wireless remote. Both units only come with a single handheld (car) remote, though I already had two from another belt drive unit from Chamberlain. It was easy to program these other remotes to this new unit.

I love this door opener, that being said I had a small problem with mine. The lock bolt slid out from the box and the rollers would hit it making a racket. If this happens to yours DO NOT grind the lock bolt down has it will just slide out more. Just take the box apart and put JB WELD on it make sure it is for metal. Put it on the bolt so it won't slide out more than its supposed to. Then let it sit as per directions. I was told this would be a pretty permanent fix. That being said I would buy another if I needed to. The reception to open or close is great on this, wish I had of bought it sooner. I still give it 5 stars