I used it for my 2008 Honda Accord EX-L

This is the most basic thing you could ever imagine. However it's also the greatest tool you've ever had for doing belts on Honda's. The sockets just skinny enough to clear even after market motor mounts. The bend makes it so that you can easily take the belt off. It's long enough so there's plenty of leverage. I really thought this was going to be a joke but it ended up being one of the greatest tools.

It slipped a bit on the tensioner which is why I cut a star, once I got it fully seated it did the job. But"¦. This tool is perfectly constructed to do what is supposed to. It was pleasant to have the correct tool for this and not to have to use two wrenches to to get the job done.

This tool is pretty basic, but it was enough to do the job. The belt tensioner on a Mazda 2.5L is in the lower rear of the engine bay, and difficult to access. A standard box wrench is much too short to let an average person apply the required torque. A wrench extender can be used from underneath, but there's not much clearance for travel on the tensioner before your wrench runs into a suspension control arm. This tool is bent the wrong way for use from underneath. However, it is bent just right for use from the top of the engine bay. (The 19mm is bent the opposite way, but the Mazda takes a 14mm socket.)

With the extra length of this tool, turning the tensioner is pretty easy. On the Mazda, you have to make extra clearance for turning the tool by supporting the engine with a jack and removing the engine mount, and unbolting and shifting an air conditioner line. Once that is done, a single person can loosen the tension and slip the belt onto the small smooth idler pulley near the left side of the engine.

Probably a good idea to check the engine mount while you are there, as you will basically be removing it anyway.

I was a little nervous about the 12-point socket being prone to rounding off the tensioner bolt, but it held securely (and is less prone to rounding than any cobbled-together solution).

I got this to use on my 2014 Mazda 2 and it got the job done just fine.

I docked it a star mostly for the messy welds. This is basically just a piece of bar stock bent on both ends with some low profile sockets welded on.

The 14mm end is a little loose but not enough to slip or round anything off. I don't have any use for the other end so I can't comment on it. If the nut on your tensioner is already damaged / rounded off, you may want something that fits better.

The 14mm end has some of the thickness of the bar ground off to give extra clearance. This turned out to be very helpful for me.

I haven't seen any evidence of the paint chipping off, even inside the socket after it was used. That said, I've only used it once and was very careful with it.

Ideally for my car the bar would have been straight or even bent the other direction. The bend causes the bar to make contact with the cam position sensor when you're loosening things. I handled this by unplugging the sensor and pulling the bar out a bit so it just barely cleared it. Next time I'll just remove the sensor so I don't risk damaging its plug.

Altogether it's a good buy for the money. I went with this one over some higher end sets because I had concerns about the ratcheting ones or swappable sockets not having clearance or the handle not being long enough to give good leverage. Also a lot of other sets (including the auto store loaners / rentals) only have 14mm as a crow's foot which wouldn't work at all on this car.

So yes, I'd recommend this tool, but be aware of the ugly welds, slightly loose socket, and less-than-ideal bend on the handle (for this car).