Not tye most fancy tool out there but allowed me to replace a broken valve spring on a v6 dodge caliber.

Worked perfectly

My Jeep 4.7L HO dropped a valve seat and I decided to take it apart myself. It works great when the pistons are in the right position. The reviewers with broken parts probably hit the pistons. It only takes a few pounds of pressure on the wrench even with an extension for the rear cylinders. The left bank must have cylinder 1 at TDC on compression stroke to remove the cylinder #2 and #8 valves. Then cylinder 3 at TDC on compression stroke for #4 and #6 valves. A compression gauge comes in handy. Any other position and the valves will hit the pistons and won't move. The price jumps from 28 to 48 so beware.

I replaced the lifters on our 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 4.7L. This tool was absolutely neccessary to accomplish said task. I know many people say to molest a thin head 10mm wrench and pry the rockers out, then 'tap' or pry them back into place. For less than $30, you can do the job correctly with this tool. I did have to remove some of the back side of the section where the ratchet attaches, with a hand grinder. It wanted to cintact the fuel rail, and with that being said, you will want to use the smallest head 3/8 ratchet/breaker bar available, as the larger headed tool will also contact the fuel rail. A large box end wrench on the breaker bar can provide the needed leverage to replace the rockers if working solo.

I found it was not neccessary to find exact TDC. As long as the cam lobe is not down on the rocker, the valve will compress and the rocker will slide out. Just work which ones have the lobe raised, document them as you go, then cycle the engine by hand just enough to get to the next several lifters.

My original lifters had nearly 140k miles and every one was seized. I soaked the new ones (Melling) in half 5w30 oil and half Lucas oil stabilizer overnight. Huge improvement, I had no idea how bad the originals had become.

Recommendations-

Definitely replace the valve cover gaskets, if not the valve covers themselves. 20+ year old plastic, one of mine cracked upon removal. A gasket set should include the oil fill spout to cylinder head gasket, new cover and gasket set probably won't include that gasket.

Heater hoses. Again 20+ years old. They will be coming off anyway. Mopar originals and even aftermarket hoses are ridiculously expensive. HPS silicon hoses were much more reasonable and fit perfectly.

Radiator hoses. Gonna be draining coolant anyway, why not? Interesting note, both radiator hoses differ from 99 & 2000 vs. 01 - 04. The heater hoses are the same for all years of WJ's, at least with the 4.7L. HPS only offered radiator hoses for the 01 - 04 models, and their heater hoses specify 01- 04, but fit perfectly in the 2000.

Serpentine belt. Again, will have the old one off, slide a new one in there and toss the old one in the cab as a spare.

Fuel injector plugs. Several of mine cracked the small red retaining clip. There is not much wiggle room for the harness, so they are just set in for now. 200 miles and they haven't come loose. Found some aftermarket plugs, but will have to splice and solder them in at a later date.

Took the better part of the day, but I am no mechanic and had only watched some online videos and read the Chilton's manual.

A little smaller than expected but worked OK ive got big hands so it was difficult to get the retainers back in but got it done a second person would help