I use this on two knives only so far used three different grits from the course to the 800 it only took me about half an hour that's after the setup and you talking about Sharpness, caution, the sizes great the bag that comes in I like it durability it's pretty solid easy to set up, durability yeah it's a pretty solid piece of equipment easy to mount on the table or anywhere that you want to mount it. I've seen these advertised for $90 that would work would be worth it the price I paid for mine it was worth it a lot cheaper

Overall works great. I bought the metal upgrade swivel for this do to some complaints on longevity on original swivel. I can't attest to that because I upgraded it right away and kept nylon swivel as a back up. I usually use a wet stone and hand sharpen by feel and eye. However, that can be tricky and time consuming. This hasn't sped up the process that much for me, but it does keep a consistent angle for the knife bevel.

I also bought a competitor diamond stones with similar size plates. They actually fit the RUIXIN PRO RX-008. I chose diamond plates for when I need to re-bevel and shape a severely chipped or dull blade.

The stones are not bad but those are better for maintenance sharpening and upkeep. Where as diamond allows you to reshaping and re-bevel really dull blades.

The key to sharpening is that you have to shape primary edge first then Secondary edge (cutting edge) last. I could be using the edge names backwards, however, the point is for extreme sharpness do as follows:

1. Make sure blade is straight, not bent.

2. Thin out main edge a little. To do this pick a flatter angle than cutting edge angle. For instance let's say you want a 17 degree cutting edge. On this step you sharpening or thin to a 10 degree angle.

3. Now that step 2 is done you increase angle to 17 degrees and sharpen. What I do is clamp down blade and bevel edge evenly until my nail catches a burr on opposite side of blade. Then I unscrew the blade turn over and repeat.
Depending on the dullness of the blade will determine what grit to start with.

If your knife is really dull you want to start at lower grits and slowly move up to next grit. At the very end use a flat strop or straightening chef hone. This will remove small burrs and straighten the cutting edge (pretty much microscopically). If you can see the burr with the naked eye that is not good.

Also, One last thing do not use the clamp swivel clamp for sharpening (meaning pick a side to use. ) personally I chose hexagonal (allen wrench screws up). Even though this increases the sharpening time, it does two things for you, keeps same angle, if you flip clamp angles are different. So unscrew blade and manually flip blade and re-clamp. This Keeps you safer and keeps same angle. Because if that spring loaded part were to give out while you are pivoting it you could severely cut yourself. The swivel is for choosing an angle not for flipping and keeping same angle. If the design is for that than I'm sorry it will not work as intended. That being said as long as you manually flip blade and re-clamp you'll be good with this.

I had the older version for some time and I liked it, but it was a pain to sharpen both sides of the knife. With this, you simply pull the knife out, spin it 180* to sharpen the other side, swap stones, sharpen and repeat until done.

1 minor gripe is finding the angle to sharpen your knives, but if you have a protractor sitting on the blade you can find and adjust the angle by lining it up to the stone.

Setup was simple. Really didn't need instructions, it was nearly fully assembled as it came. All you have to do is loosen a lug nut with the hex key provided to get the armature screwed in and you are good to go, really. Some of the finer details might have been lost on me though, had I not looked them up or read the instructions. Like setting the angle, seems simple but it can be easy to overcomplicate things, right? Right. The - and + angles threw me off, I wasn't aware I was supposed to add them like the -/+ sign didn't exist to find the angle. Even then, I had to check to make sure this angle was correct with the sharpie method and a razor. Some problems I had were that the slider's eye ring kept freeing from it's mounting on the return stroke and this would allow the arm to move away from the set angle. Not good. It takes very little force/friction to loosen it from the mounting but a lot to set it back in. Also, when sharpening blades to really shallow angles the screws that hold the bracket in place can interrupt the motion of the slider arm on one side. You can always grind/file them down, but be careful not to remove too much or else thicker blades will not fit in the vise.

Edit: the problem with the eye slider's ring coming out was due to loose screw.

I use this on two knives only so far used three different grits from the course to the 800 it only took me about half an hour that's after the setup and you talking about Sharpness, caution, the sizes great the bag that comes in I like it durability it's pretty solid easy to set up, durability yeah it's a pretty solid piece of equipment easy to mount on the table or anywhere that you want to mount it. I've seen these advertised for $90 that would work would be worth it the price I paid for mine it was worth it a lot cheaper