You must have a smooth hard and flat surface to iron the peel onto your shirt. Your iron board likely won't work well due to the foam padding. Initially I was using an iron board and it wasn't peeling off correctly. It's probably because heat and pressure distribution is not even. I switched to a quartz countertop and the process was much easier. It took less time as well. The transfer peel will probably last 10 washes before it starts to crack. It says don't use a dryer but I do. It should last longer if you don't use a dryer.

So I own many white shirts and I have two little boys one is five and autistic. don't know if I'm allowed to legally copy of the quote off of Pinterest and print them however if you get an app that allow you to flip the image, you can make some pretty funny shirts! If I actually took a picture of the shirt I definitely have to put a warning label on may be explicit content because raising two boys and having a husband has given me one hell of a personality. They really do work great we just have to make sure that you really iron it on hot in & before you start to peel The decal off make sure you start at a corner and don't just rip it off. This gives you the opportunity to lay down the transfer exactly where it was and continued iron it on. I mainly wear the shirts are at my house because my children can't read, but if someone I'm close to comes over and sees me in the shirt most of the time they have to run to the bathroom before they Pee themselves. But all in all make sure that you cut around the decal and don't iron on the excess paper. One it will look crappy and two you're just making way more time for yourself with the iron.

This product worked fine for SATIN. Take your time, and use a table top to iron on. Also, I might note, that my iron kept turning off as I was working. I suppose I kept it on the fabric and at such a high heat that the elves in my iron decided it was not safe. So, keep an eye on that. Wait a minute or so and slowly peel the paper off. Make sure to use all cotton pillow cases. The poly blend one I started with , began to melt. I covered my project with a pillowcase to iron and I noticed some ink on the pillowcase, too, so you might want to use an old one. On the darker colors, I used fusible interfacing under the transfer. As others have noted, its impossible to know which side is the printable side, so I just followed the directions and loaded the paper as instructed. For this reason alone, I may seek another brand of transfer paper next time. The photos attached show: purple cape with interfacing underneath, and green cape without interfacing

The results that I got were very good and I was satisfied thoroughly except that I still manage to scorch one shirt by leaving the hot iron on the fabric too long... that was my fault. After reading some of the other comments on the Epson Iron-on Transfer Paper, I knew to be careful about the side on which I printed. Also if you have never used this product, you should carefully read the instructions and be sure to reverse the image before printing. I use Photoshop to "flip" the image horizontally to create the mirror image before printing.

I ironed on a full letter size image and two small images (that completely fitted under the iron). I was careful to remove all water from the iron so as to not generate any steam. The instructions said to use a flat surface but NOT an ironing board so I used an old table top. With an image that completely fits under the iron, it is easier to scorch the fabric because the iron is left in contact with a particular section of the garment longer. My suggestion is to get the "feel" of the process using an old piece of fabric before using a garment of value. After all, the transfer paper is not that expensive and so a piece wasted won't break the bank. The Epson instructions will give you some guidelines about how to move the iron in some very specific pattern. My suggestions is to use the ironing pattern as a guide and not as a method that must be followed rigidly.

You will probably use a pillow case between the iron and the transfer paper... that pillow case will most likely be scorched when you are through so better to use an old throwaway pillow case. My shirts were 100% white cotton and I don't know how the transfer will look other colors or non-cotton fabrics. I can tell you that you must use a hot iron and some fabrics do not hold up well under high heat. Finally, I washed one of the T-shirts that had the image transfer and it came out just fine with no noticeable fading or bleeding.

I have never tried iron-on transfer paper before, but I needed something quick to make for an event. My first test turned out perfectly; I printed a colored image and ironed it onto a white tee. I had read several reviews and not one of them had explained why you cannot use dark fabrics for these types of products. And a lot of the different products that I researched indicated "for light-colored fabrics", but again, never explained why that was. This particular transfer paper is white, and the directions don't indicate which is the print side. You will need to FEEL the paper. The print side is the smoother of the two sides, and it looks like pure white, if you compare it to other side. There is a corner cut off of the transfer paper, and according to the directions, you are supposed to stick the paper in the tray with the cut corner on the upper left; however, it really depends on what type of printer you are using. Some printers print facedown, so you need to figure out on which side your printer prints before you waste any transfer paper.

So once your image is printed, the image will look gorgeous and bright on the transfer paper. Don't let it fool you! It has a film that will adhere itself to the fabric as you apply heat, so the film will act like a tint on your image, making it darker and more difficult to make out on dark-colored fabrics. My first project was on a bright orange shirt, and although I was happy with the way it turned out, I would have liked for it to be clearer. The test sample turned out much better, as I tested on white fabric; the transfer paper looked almost transparent. So again, if you are using a lot of colors, it is best to do this project on white fabric.

Finally, the shirt was worn two days in a row for a weekend event that we had, and the image ended up cracking. So needless to say, this product doesn't last very long at all. It served its purpose, though, so I'm okay with it. It didn't peel off or anything; it just cracked and gave it a more worn look. So if you are looking for transfer paper that gives you a more professional appearance, I don't recommend this product.