Built like America used to build things back in the 1950s -- solid metal and made for the long haul. This is a 1-piece aluminum casting with a thick (3/16", I'd estimate) flat plate of tempered glass on the back side of the grille. The glass disc is permanently glued to the visor with some kind of clear, flexible silicone-like compound, but stronger. As others have mentioned, comes with an O-ring and the knurled mounting screw to lock it on to the light fixture.

But here's the catch -- it doesn't fit, I repeat, DOES NOT FIT, with some of the newer BR40-style LED flood lights. For example, the Hyperikon BR40's are too tall by at least 1/2". They hit not only the glass, but the grille. Here's what I did:

- Got my workshop & safety gear set up: bench vise, protective eyewear & apron, earplugs, dust mask, and a 4" angle grinder with a wide (1/8") metal-cutting disk.
- Took (4) of these units, brand new out of the box, and busted out the tempered glass with a hammer. Takes 5 or 6 hard hammer blows to crack it, very tough stuff. Then took pliers & tore out the cast aluminum grille bars. Easy to do because aluminum is a bit brittle, esp. in thin cast pieces.
- Put up each unit one at a time on the bench vise and used the 4" angle grinder to grind out the ~3/16" wide inner metal mounting lip, on which the glass had formerly sat. This is required because the Hyperikon BR40 bulbs are also large in diameter & the bulbs will not fit through the hood opening unless the opening is ground out. Took about 15 minutes per unit to make these modifications.
- DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, it is more than a little dicey to stick a 4" angle grinder inside a ~4.5" I.D. opening and try to grind it out without catching an edge and possibly flipping the running grinder up into your face or across your body. Worked out OK for me, no problems, but this is only for advanced workshop-type people.

Essential sheild to prevent light pollution for a downward diagonal illumination from shining above the horizon line and into the starry night sky. The rubber gasket band made it a little difficult to force onto the fixture but it essential holds well once you get it on. I didn't want the inside to reflect off the white paint so I spray painted the interior a matted black to reduce glare. I had to cover the glass and grill with cardboard and painters' tape but I like how it turned out. I used a yellow amber LED bug light bulb rather than a traditional flood light to mitigate the harmful blue color spectrum and it fit snugly but still works.

I ordered 4 of the RAB Lighting HV1W H System Visor, Aluminum,7" x 5-1/2", White BUT only received 3.

What is there to say, it's a RAB light! I bought this to install on our flood light that's lighting our inground pool. The existing light shined into our living room, so I wanted a way to mask some of the light to reduce the glare. These arrived quickly and are built extremely well. They are cast aluminum, thick gauge and painted with a super thick powder type coating. I firmly believe these will be around for over 20 years before they fail, they are that good!

These are well-made additions to RAB lights. I used them on models STL360HW and H2W, to block light from shining into the road and neighbors' windows. They fit very well, and took a firm push to install. It seems water-tight.

Note that there is a glass plate behind the metal frame, so the bulb is enclosed. I used these with Hyperikon PAR38 LED bulbs so I'm not very worried about heat.