I have a well and I purchased this anode rod to eliminate the rotten egg smell coming from my hot water. I installed it and sanitized the water heater using Hydrogen Peroxide. I also set the temp of the water to 150 degrees. The rod I took out was badly corroded and the water heater was only 3 months old! The smell went away for a couple of weeks but returned with a vengeance. I sanitized the heater again with double dose of H2O2 (Quart). If this doesn't work I will use Clorox next time. I am told that the smell is caused by a bacteria that lunches out on various metals and gives off Hydrogen Sulfide gas as a byproduct. the gas is harmless in low concentrations. Try telling that to my wife! I may have to sanitize my 600ft well if all fails. I am also considering doing without hot water, Brrrrr.

Bought this to replace the anode in my water heater after a neighbor (similar age house/heater) had his water heater rust out. When I pulled my old anode out, it was completely gone, so replacing it was definitely the right thing to do. This anode fit right in, and I have seen no issues - it has been in for quite a while now. Getting the old anode out can be challenging, and you almost certainly will need a breaker with a good length extension to get enough torque. There are some water heaters where it is hard, if not impossible, to get to the anode, so check before you buy one. Other than that, replacing the anode is not technically hard, and not worth paying a couple hundred buck if you have the ability. Not having the anode changed is even more expensive.

Replaced an anode rod on a 12-year-old water heater. It is recommended that the anode rod be replaced after expiration of the tank warranty (which was 9 years for me). I probably waited a little too long, as the other rod had completely disintegrated. The rod was extremely easy to replace once the old rod was removed. This is the most difficult step. You should have another person to hold the water heater steady, and an extension bar to put on the socket for leverage, and a can of WD-40 handy. You will need to drain and flush out the sediment and pieces of the old rod that broke off in your tank when replacing it. I will not be replace the rod in this water heater again, but will remove it to see how much is left when the water heater eventually leaks to determine when I should replace it in my next water heater. I think if I tried to replace it again, I would probably cause the water heater to need to be replaced. Some of the components, such as the drain valve, aren't designed to be operated frequently and will leak or break if you operate them more than a few times. I'm also sure by then other things will be getting ready to break and it will be more cost effective to just replace. Both my previous water heaters lasted 17 years before leaking and needing replaced, so I'll keep track and see if this actually helps prolongs the tank life. Like I said at the beginning though, I may have waited too long. Once the anode rod is depleted, the water begins to attack the line of the tank. When that is penetrated, a leak is eminent; it's only a matter of time.

Easy to install. 29 in anode rod. Tip: ensure that you have the right tools. 1- 1/16 inch deep socket and a Breaker bar and tef tape. These things are on tight so don't attempt on empty tank and don't attempt without a breaker bar. Take a look at the bar after 7 years. I'd say it went a little too long.

Good OEM quality, well needed replacement!