If you plan on buying this shelf be aware that you should definitely install into wall studs. I had some challenges with the install which is why you see it upside down.
The shelf is heavy duty similar to cast iron pans. There's no doubt it can hold plenty of items as long as you have it anchored properly. The shelf is versatile in that it can be installed as pictured or upside down. The holes on the shelf and bracket are spaced at 32" apart (horizontally) and 12" from the shelf to the bracket (vertically) so it works if you have studs every 16". However I did not have studs every 16" so I had to improvise.
I have horizontal studs in my place (not sure how or why) and they were spaced every 2 ft. So I decided to drill extra holes into the shelf (5 additional holes) to guarantee the shelf would not fall. I then decided to be safe, flip the shelf so the there would be less pressure from the brackets having to be "pulled" from the wall. I then used 100lb wall anchors for the brackets.
Note: Before installing the shelf, I put felt behind the shelf and brackets to prevent the unit damaging the wall too much once it's secured against the wall.
I'm pleased with the shelf and the look. I was able to hang a few pans, pots, 2 cast iron pans, and on top I had a 6qt cast iron pan with a few other cast iron items. So far since installation I've checked daily and it's still secured against the wall with no movement.

This product works for the price. Install is involved, but the shortcomings can be overcome with $12 worth of modifications.

Pros: nice looking, sturdy once assembled, works well, bolts spaced 16" on center (will hit two studs in many houses), low price

Cons: involved install, hardware quality is not great, loose tapped fittings, grate is undersized, instructions are minimal

How to make it work:
Screws: use thread lock on the frame screws and the supports for the grate the night before install
Bracing: I used 2x4s between studs
Bolts: HD sells black hex head lag screws for decks to replace the ones that come with the rack, pre drill holes, rachet in place
Grate: center and use JB Weld to anchor the grate in place, allow to cure overnight before loading

I had a handyman install it. It was quite a challenge because the studs weren't in the right place. He ended up installing a wood board (3/4" thick) on the wall where it hangs. That did the trick, but it was very time consuming to install. I love it though.

I was very pleasantly surprised when I unboxed this rack to discover how sturdy and well made it was. The finish was beautiful, a dark oil rubbed bronze that matched perfectly with my other bronze items throughout the house. It comes with a dozen hooks, half hang straight while the other half hang at 90 degrees. This combination worked perfectly for me because I hang my pots flat against the wall but hang my skillets sideways (perpendicular to the wall). The grate offers near endless hanging options so you can perfectly space out your items exactly the way you want. I was able to hang all of my pots, pans, and skillets and will use the top shelf for cook books and maybe some seasonal decorations. All in all I couldn't be happier with this purchase.

Installation was fairly straight forward. Everything you need is provided. The manual does state that it is required to mount directly into studs, no hollow wall anchoring. 4 large lag screws with bronze heads are provided to secure the rack to the wall. All the holes are predrilled so all you need to do is level it and mark your holes. I was very fortunate that the space I wanted to mount this worked out perfectly with stud placement. That would be my only concern, if you plan on buying this, make sure your studs allow for mounting in the area you want or risk mounting using hollow wall anchors which, as mentioned earlier, is NOT recommended. The rack is heavy on its own, plus you are going to be hanging several items from it.

This rack arrived as advertised and is sturdy and when correctly mounted will hold most anything you want to hang from it. I am very pleased with the rack. But, the mounting instructions leave something to be desired. Here is my recommendation for mounting:

Note: If your wall happens NOT to have the standard stud spacing, you're out of luck. The rack comes predrilled for a 32" spacing between holes. Find your studs and measure this spacing before starting. If it turns out you don't have two studs 32" apart for mounting, I suggest you box the thing up and return it. It's NOT a good idea to try and use drywall anchors to mount this rack!!!

1. Here's what you absolutely must have to correctly mount this rack: a) a stud finder (and know how to use it, b) a good level (a laser model is even better), c) a socket set with a 10 mm socket (why do the Chinese ship metric bolts to the U.S.!!?? and beware ... the nearest U.S. size is going to strip the heads of the bolts, so if you don't have a 10mm go buy one and consider this part of the installation cost), d) a hammer, e) a drill with a small bit (1/8" or so). You may need a Phillips head screwdriver to get through the drywall if you like, but the manual screwdriver and the drill with a Phillips head bit won't help you screw this large bolt into a seasoned wall stud.

2. Get the biggest pot you expect to hang and play around with where you want it on the wall. Once you determine that, the bracket bolts will be 13" higher than the top of the hold in the pot handle and in line with a wall stud. Use the stud finder to determine where the stud is. I used a small nail to ensure that I hit wood behind the drywall.

3. Once you mark the top two holes for the brackets you are ready to mount the thing. Do not assemble the wall bracket to the frame as the instructions indicate before trying to mount the thing to the wall. Otherwise, it is a two-person job trying to hold the entire rack up to the wall while one person tries to screw the bolts into the studs.

4. Once the two bracket holes are determined and verified, I recommend that you drill a pilot hole through the drywall and into the stud to help the bolt get started. Take the first bracket and either screw the bolt through the drywall to the stud or just pound it in with a hammer. If your house is more than 10 years old the studs will be cured, and if you are lucky you will have a seasoned pine or fir stud to screw into. I tapped the bolt once it hit the stud to make sure it was started. The pilot hole will help tremendously with starting the screw and it will verify you have hit the stud.

5. From that point on, forget the Phillips head approach to screwing the bolt into the stud. The bolts supplied have heads that are too small for the size of the bolt, making stripping of the Phillips head or the 10 mm bolt head itself very likely unless you are careful. They should have had a larger head on the bolt to make this easier and it should have not been a metric size. Use your socket wrench and a 10 mm socket to *carefully* tightened the bolts. Even with the right sized socket it is easy to strip the head because it is too small for the size of the bolt and the torque required to screw the bolt into a seasoned stud.

6. Tighten the top bolt in each bracket part way until the bolt is secure but not tightened all the way. Have your partner help you hold the main frame with the grill up in place while you attach the two front screws on the frame to the bracket. If you tighten these well, the rack will stay in place while you finish attaching all the other two bolts to the wall.

7. Find the stud somewhere below the bracket with a stud finder. Using a level, project the stud location up to where one of the holes is located that attaches the frame to the wall. You can move the frame right and left to make this alignment if you haven't tightened the two bracket bolts at the top too tightly. You only need to locate one of these holes. The other one should be 32" away at the other stud, assuming your house is built with the standard stud spacing.

8. You may not be able to drill the pilot hole for the lower bolts because your drill is not going to fit underneath the frame. I just used a hammer to pound the bolt into the stud to get it started. I finished the tightening with the 10 mm socket. Tighten all 4 bolts to snug the brackets and frame against the wall. You're done! You can hang the kitchen table from this thing and it wouldn't come out of the wall.