Consistent good results:
I used it for two weeks now and made about 6-7 batches to glue metal banisters into the handrail of my staircase. Each batch cured well and there seems no difference in the end result despite the fact that I didn't measure anything. I just eyeballed as best as I could.

Work time:
I actually don't know! I used each batch within about an hour after mixing at about 70 degrees and low humidity. I noticed it got a little stiffer, but otherwise still as sticky as before.

Cure time:
After 24 hours it was very hard but had some minimal flexibility and after 48 hours it appears fully cured. However, this material doesn't become brittle, which is important for my application as there is always going to be movement between the wood and metal.

Consistency of paste and mixing:
Each component has a distinctive different consistency. The light gray (part 1) is somewhat crumbly, grainy and slightly sticky. You can get it easily out of the can and reasonably well of the spatula that I used to scrape it out of the can. The pitch-black hardener (part 2) is a totally different story. It is annoyingly sticky and although thick, will slowly flow. Think of ultra-thick honey. This makes it a pain to get out of the can and very difficult to get off the spatula.

Now to the mixing part. Somewhat difficult because it is sticky and thick, but within 3-5 minutes you end up with a dark grey paste that has the consistency of chewing gum. When you try to lift a small amount off the mixture, you will stretch the material until it gets thin enough to break off. For me, the best tool was a disposable chop stick which I rolled back and forth to capture the stretched-out material.

Stickiness:
I had to work it into the wood grain for it to stick well. For example, if I would drop a small amount on a smooth surface, I would suspect you could easily pry it off once it is cured. But once it is pressed into place it will never come off.

Flow properties while uncured:
As I alluded to before, this material will flow a little bit over the course of 1-2 hours. In my case, I had to smear it into the holes at the bottom of the handrail. It worked reasonable well, but you can't put too much in the hole or it will slowly flow out.

I have some knockoff Tiffany light sconces that are quite delicate where it attaches to the wall bracket. They have broken off before when someone touches them. I decided to use epoxy to strengthen the attachment points and initially used the ones that come from the squeeze syringes. The problem is that they don't have bigger sizes and they are such a pain to squeeze through. I found that the PC-7 is much easier to use in that they are in jars. I can then use a small 1.5" taping knife to mix the 2 part and spread it on the appropriate surfaces. What I have found is that this stuff is even stronger than the metal used to hold the Tiffany glass in place. Although some said this stuff is hard to mix and spread - I don't see that at all. It is thick - granted but if they have used the JB weld steel epoxy, they'll know how this stuff works. Plus if it is too soft, it won't hold the pieces together temporarily while it dries. Some other epoxies are soft liquid and unless you have clamps to hold in place, they don't work so good. I'm extremely happy with the results and how it mixes - the excellent price is just the topping on the cake.

This epoxy was not what I expected, but it worked well. Both components were very stiff (Like cold modeling clay) when they arrived. It took a lot of working (kneading) them to get them mixed. Once mixed I needed to aggressively smear the epoxy onto the counter base to make a good bond (It would not wet the surface of the cultured stone easily). Once in place the epoxy did not run or move in any way (which is a good thing if your counter is already in place). After 24 hours the epoxy had set although there was still some give to it. After setting for a week it is rock hard and solid.

When JBs welds consistency just wont work, this stuff does. And it sticks to everything. Glass, Wood, Plastic, Metals.. fingers..

I used the PC-7 epoxy paste to repair our black granite kitchen countertop. The two sections had separated over the years by nearly 1/8". After cleaning out the old sealant from the gap, I mixed the PC-7 per instructions, and filled the gap. I had plenty of working time - they said one hour. I was able to smooth down the joint with water and a putty knife, and then removed excess from alongside the joint with a single-edge razor, and finished with alcohol until the haze was gone. The epoxy cured overnight to a dark-grey color that's very inconspicuous next to our black granite. Most importantly, the "executive chef" of the house approved the repair!!