Frog Lube 14986 Solvent, 1 Gallon


Key features
- •Non-toxic usda bio-preferred weapons Cleaner
- •Lubricates all metal, Polymer, wood parts
- •Absolutely no petroleum, oil or wax in froglube
- •Protects against rust, carbon, Grit. Seasons into the pores, creates a barrier
Frog Lube 14986 Solvent, 1 Gallon
List Price: $221.29$199.16DEALYou Save: $22.13 (10%)
Free shippingFree Returns – 30 daysFree Order CancellationSecure Payment2–3 Days DeliveryGet It June 23, 2026In Stock (4)No marketing spamNo account requiredFulfilment by FedEx / Amazon / UPS / ShipwirePayPal / Card Buyer Protection
Customer Reviews
Reviews sourced from verified Amazon purchasers5.0
out of 5
Based on 3 reviews
5★
100%
4★
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3★
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2★
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1★
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Remarkably thourough gun cleaner. Far more effective than Hoppes ...
Scott Moyer•March 14, 2017
Remarkably thourough gun cleaner. Far more effective than Hoppes or CLP. No Smell or oily residue. Safe for gun finishes.
Five Stars
Theodore G. Penge•April 22, 2016
It is amazing stuff..!! Never going back to other crap..
The Only Gun Cleaner I Use
Sarusan68•December 24, 2013
After trying Froglube solvent & CLP a year ago, it has become the only gun cleaner and lubricant that I use exclusively.
This product is fantastic and works as advertised in addition to being easy to use, non-flammable and pleasant smelling.
I practice weekly firing a total of 100 to 400 rounds per week, including both high quality ammunition and cheap dirty ammo.
Carbon fouling in my AR's is easily removed without the use of scrapers or specialty tools, just soak & heat and it comes off.
CLP is best used sparingly since it soaks into metal surfaces (even painted or anodized) and will begin to sweat out when the surfaces become warm.
My preferred method of use is as follows; 1) clean new parts using solvent to remove as much petrol products from the surfaces, 2) treat cleaned surfaces with CLP, 3) bake parts in oven (instead of using blow dryer) at appropriate temp (max 200 degrees F) until CLP begins to run off (any remaining oils & dirt will flow out as brown streams), 4) let parts cool until safe to handle then wipe down until dry. I find that using a plastic squeeze bottle with a nozzle tips works as a great applicator to apply CLP in hard to reach spots.
CLP past works great for parts that require grease or heavy lubrication, just apply sparingly since this product will turn to a liquid when heated (much like lard).
Clean up is just as easy, towels can be washed in laundry (separate from clothes) and any tools can be washed using dish soap (vegetable oil based products seems to work best) and hot water.
This product is fantastic and works as advertised in addition to being easy to use, non-flammable and pleasant smelling.
I practice weekly firing a total of 100 to 400 rounds per week, including both high quality ammunition and cheap dirty ammo.
Carbon fouling in my AR's is easily removed without the use of scrapers or specialty tools, just soak & heat and it comes off.
CLP is best used sparingly since it soaks into metal surfaces (even painted or anodized) and will begin to sweat out when the surfaces become warm.
My preferred method of use is as follows; 1) clean new parts using solvent to remove as much petrol products from the surfaces, 2) treat cleaned surfaces with CLP, 3) bake parts in oven (instead of using blow dryer) at appropriate temp (max 200 degrees F) until CLP begins to run off (any remaining oils & dirt will flow out as brown streams), 4) let parts cool until safe to handle then wipe down until dry. I find that using a plastic squeeze bottle with a nozzle tips works as a great applicator to apply CLP in hard to reach spots.
CLP past works great for parts that require grease or heavy lubrication, just apply sparingly since this product will turn to a liquid when heated (much like lard).
Clean up is just as easy, towels can be washed in laundry (separate from clothes) and any tools can be washed using dish soap (vegetable oil based products seems to work best) and hot water.






