Very nice instrument, but the English manual is wanting. Written by a non-native English speaker, so the idioms and words don't translate well. Also, instructions for zero'ing runout omit the near certainty that you'll have to loosen the socket cap screw (SCS) in the shank enough so that the four opposing screws for zeroing the head's eccentricity ("concentricity") work (DO NOT OVER-TORQUE). (Had to call factory to make sure I wouldn't damage unit). Factory says torque on shank SCS should be 6 N-m or 4.4 ft-lbs. I'd say it's less than that. Once you re-torque the shank SCS, back off all four opposing set screws and GINGERLY zero the runout. Don't use the set screws to shift the head... use your hand to shift the head relative to the shank and snug the set screws only to hold your final adjustment in place, otherwise, you'll be (literally) screwing around with the runout for an hour. The head is very finicky during this runout-zero'ing procedure: as you snug up the set screws, it moves around more than you'd expect. Consequently, my first session took over 30 minutes as I learned the feel of it. Once you've dialed it in, it's a very fast and accurate means of finding edges and corners in 2D and 3D respectively. NOTE: the long probe has an 8mm ball on the end, which is huge. This is necessary, owing to the trigonometry of the way the head actuates the dial indicator. My point here: don't expect to reach deep into a narrow hole to find an edge... the geometry that makes this a fast and accurate 3D taster also makes it incapable of that kind of probing. Not sure how this would fare in a tool changer. I have a Bridgeport with a Maxi Torque-Rite, and it seems to survive a few cycles of that without going out of cal. Other reviewers seem to have mixed results with tool changers knocking it out of zero runout. (I agree with the one reviewer who says it seems easy to knock out of calibration.) Dedicate a tool holder / shank to this, clamp it in tight, and then zero your runout. Re-check the eccentricity regularly. Once you get the hang of it, it's not hard to re-zero

good probe, save me a lot a set up time

The directions to center the thing didn't work. In fact I can't see any difference no matter what I screw or unscrew, tighten or untighten. I am starting to get the feeling I was duped. I will keep trying because if it actually worked then it would be nice to have. I am rooting for the stupid thing but I have had it for weeks now and every time I pick it up it makes me grumble because of the cost and the fact I haven't used it a single time. A $10 wobbler is more accurate than it is...

Excellent tool for mills without a probe. It essentially does everything a probe does except manually. It's well built and though the instructions are decent I did find that calibrating / adjusting it was a pain until I got the hang of it. That said it doesn't seem to need adjusting often. Readings are very precise and repeatable.

I would absolutely consider this a must have for any mill without a probe.

Basically, if you don't have one of these you are missing out. Fantastic tool, great german build quality, excellent accuracy once dialed in to the toolholder. A+