I applied Pond Shield (black) on a newly poured concrete fountain basin that had been fully dried and cured according to the cement manufacturer specifications. All suggestions below are for application to a ~30 square foot, rough concrete surface. In general, I am happy with the Pond Shield coating, but was a little frustrated by the instruction sheet included with the product and feel it could have been more clear about mixing requirements and preparation. Here are my observations to hopefully help out other installers:

1. The package comes with two cans: Part A (rubberized epoxy) and Part B (an activator). There are no measuring cups in the box despite what it says on the carton, so you'll need to provide your own. For small jobs of around 20-30 square feet, you could probably get by with (2) disposable sets of (1) cup & (1/2) cup. I recommend also getting at least (2) small, quart sized mixing cups (at the paint store), at least (2) 4" paint roller trays, and a 6-pack of rollers. I used a 4" premium lint-free roller (for semi-smooth surfaces) and was happy with the application texture. You'll also need a set of measuring spoons for the alcohol (thinning agent) needed to thin out Part-B before adding it to Part-A

2. The instructions inform you that Part B (activator) should be thinned with either denatured alcohol or 99% isopropyl alcohol. Depending on where you are in the country (USA), you may have a hard time finding these products, so plan ahead. I got lucky and ended up finding 99.9% isopropyl at an electronics specialty store in my area. Drugstores will often stock 91% isopropyl, but nothing higher. Again, it's worth planning ahead and putting a quart of 99% in your Amazon order along with the Pond Shield. (As a side note, if you go the denatured alcohol route, it's worth confirming that any product you buy has a high percentage of ethanol instead of methyl alcohol and other adulterants which don't do as good a job at thinning out paint products.)

3. For concrete surfaces, the Pond Shield instructions instruct you to treat the surface with a 3part Water to 1part Muriatic acid solution. You can buy this online or at your local masonry supply store. You'll need chemical resistant gloves, eye protection, and (ideally) an acid/gas respirator when prepping this solution, so plan ahead. The instructions say to wash away the solution after you've let it etch the concrete (I gave it about 5 min. of working time) but if you're working in a fountain basin you may need to siphon out the water and use a large sponge to clean up the final wetness.

4. IMPORTANT: If working in a basin, I recommend flooding the entire feature to completely neutralize the acid before draining and letting the feature dry off. I might even flood and wash it out twice for good measure. If ANY acid is left on the concrete, you may have issues with the acid residue off gassing after applying the Pond Shield, creating little bubbles throughout the coating. I had this issue, but only on the bottom of the water feature. Because the sides of the fountain were not affected by the bubbles, I assume this effect was created by some of the acid that had not fully washed out of the bottom of the fountain which then reacted with the Pond Shield coating.

4. This product flows really well and paints on similar to a latex paint, so a roller works really well. You've got about 45 minutes of working time in mild temperatures (75deg) with a shaded work space. Final finish is smooth and very high gloss. Hardens up within a few hours of application, so keep the working area CLEAN and free of dust in the meantime unless you want to have grit embedded in your coating.

I think that's about it, hopefully this information helps other people plan ahead when using this product!

Product used to seal a home water feature that had failed. Color dries glossy but once water is added it does go a bit flat. Product is thick, so don't assume you are working with regular house paint. Requires a bit of elbow grease to apply. This was applied in late fall so took about twice the time to completely dry (about 5 days).

I used this in a snake house. The original silicone did not hold up. So, I stripped the silicone and re-caulked.
then 'painted" everything with this. So far works great. Won't harm the pets. fast drying. Don't mix too much, if doing a small area. This hardens fast.

I ordered this product in clear for a concrete birdbath. It works well and I love that it is non-toxic. I forgot to buy alcohol to thin it as suggested, but mixed the product in small batches as recommended by other reviewers, and found that it was easy to apply without the alcohol. I don't think alcohol is needed for small jobs. One thing to note is that my birdbath looked white, but once I etched it, it took off that finish/residue and it became the natural color of concrete (gray). I wish that their clear product wasn't glossy; I would prefer a satin or matte.

Used this to coat the inside of a clay pot to create water feature / fountain. The application was easy after completing the mixing. Need rubbing alcohol to thin the hardener prior to mixing. Finish turned out great.