OK, this is actually a 5 star rating, because, my use of Top Coat is unusual and unique. Thus, I cannot condemn the otherwise very glossy and hard shell results that I need. Also, I have written in the past to tech at POR15, and they do not agree with or respond to my considerations. So, let me air them out here. Top coat in the rattle can appears to be a different formula than the Quart version. It has a propellant in it that is saturated in the mix to allow it to be sprayed. For my purposes, I cannot use the spray directly from the can, because I must spray close to my parts--that is, -- not the recommended 12" to 18" distance that would allow the propellant to outgas before hitting the objects surface during a "full wet coat" . Sprayed from the can, the otherwise glossy surface is freckled with outgassing bubbles that cannot be removed, and actually cure in place ruining the glossy surface. I have reverted to a technique of "De-gassing" the product by spraying it directly into my detail spray gun's cup, using a piece of Saran wrap plastic as a tent to direct the fluid into the cup, and outgas the propellant. Then, spraying the product close up on my parts no longer results in surface bubbling. Also- ( a good thing), I paint about once or twice a week. I leave the de-gassed product in the spray gun's ventilated cup for several days without use. The paint remains liquid in the cup without curing during this time- and additional paint can be added as needed using the special technique- thus never needing to clean the gun! Excellent pot life! Try THAT with regular POR 15 from a can. Impossible--it will cure in the gun and ruin the spray equipment. The formula MUST be different! So, the rattle can is actually a better way of storing this notoriously "difficult-to-store" product. Again, further, my unusual techniques also require special attention because I am painting onto Acetyl and Meth-acrylic plastics. The product can be "Loaded-very-thick" onto a surface by allowing short cure times between wet coats, and sometimes rotating the part for about 3 minutes to avoid runs and allow even surface thickness. Still, in some cases, after slight shrinkage, yet before total cure, surface anomalies, like sanding scratches- can be "color-sanded" out, and a fresh coat be applied.. When cured ( several days to weeks), the surface is hard, glossy black, and damn-near perfect. I am greatly impressed with the product for all the above reasons---AFTER needed modifications. I hope some detailers and artists find this useful. Por15 people have not.

I have used a lot of this aerosol top coat on my chassis parts over POR undercoat. The appearance is very good but there is no solvent resistance. I had to re-do new steel tube fender supports. The paint finish was not great so I wet sanded for a re-coat. When I cleaned the surface with Prepsol wax/grease remover the Top Coat went soft and came off on my cloth. Unacceptable for automotive use.

This is far from the quality of normal POR rust preventative paint in a can. I LOVE the POR in a can but this stuff is NOT oil and gas resilient at all. I'd read a previous review which said it was not appropriate for areas where oil or gas may splatter or be present. At the time I thought the reviewer had just applied it wrong or was using it as a sole coat without the POR rust preventative under coat. Wrong....it just falls a apart even in the most benign of areas where petroleum agents could be present (under car).

POR has done themselves a disservice with this product. They have a stellar winner in the POR rust preventative in a can...and this product detracts from that winner.

The Por15 rust preventative is good stuff the top coat is junk. I had painted some sandblasted surfaces with the top coat and spilled oil on it. Got a clean rag to wipe it off and the paint came off. This was after 4 days of curing. Gear oil, kerosene and definitely brake cleaner will destroy top coat. Better off buying $5 cans of paint as it might perform better.

I bought this to paint the GenRight tube fenders on my jeep. I followed the directions to a tee. I sanded the fenders to bare metal cleaned and used the recommended metal prep product that POR15 makes. It has now been around six months and the paint is chipping in several spots on the top of the fenders. It is not my daily driver and maybe has one thousand miles on the paint. I painted them around five years ago with good old krylon and it lasted better.