As advertised. Fast shipping. Great product It works. No instructions but if you're good with your hands, it's easy

Very easy install. I just followed YouTube directions.

easy enough to install. No instructions were included.

worked great on our older door

I have a three car garage with three doors, two of which are door opener and one manual. The manual one is fairly easy to open (we never lock it) but the local raccoon mafia finally figured out how to open it, so I got this lock. As one reviewer pointed out, it "locks" every time you close the door (the latches catch to hold the door closed), which I love but which precludes its use as a "belt and suspenders" lock on a door that has a door opener. For the price, it's a quality kit, IMO. The parts are appropriate gauge steel and the handle has a good feel. I think it would keep out the opportunistic burglar. Less casual thieves are going to be able to defeat most locks anyway (or hack the signal on your garage door opener.) It is a good retrofit, it's not as good as the old school articulated steel mechanisms (which I am unable to find at any price.)

To address complaints of other reviewers for this item and similar one (there is a similar, cheaper item that I opted against in favor of this one, which has all metal parts):
1. The instructions are, to put it charitably, Spartan, but the information is "all there" in the one diagram provided, if you scrutinize it carefully and match up the parts. I had no trouble putting it together. Much easier than the typical Christmas Eve toy assembly. Took me about an hour or so.
2. You do need a few simple tools: 1/4, 21/64 (or 3/8 in pinch), and 7/16 drill bits; a decent cordless drill; a flat-head screwdriver; a 7/16 socket or wrench, and a wire cutter (to finish the cables.) If you don't have at least those tools you have no business buying an "install it yourself" garage door lock anyway.
3. One or two reviewers said you need "cable clamps" to secure the cable. You do not. Look at the installation diagram and the part. there is a groove for the cable so you can secure the cable to each latch with a bolt, kind of like the brake cable on a bike (see my attached photo.)
4. Elaborating on #1, the one detail that is tricky is how to thread the cables and which position to have the inside lever in when doing so. This is shown in the diagram but I did it backwards the first time. The top cable on the lever goes to the right latch, and the bottom to the left. As long as you don't cut the cable till after you test the latch, you can reverse them if you do it backwards. If you have it backwards the handle will not operate the lever. Look at the picture carefully. You also need to pay attention to where/how you mount the locking latches and the latch plates, so that when they "catch" the door is in the right position. The mounting holes are slotted so you can do some adjustment if you install them in the middle of the slot.
5. There are a couple extra "mystery parts" not shown on the diagram. The black metal retaining washer can be pounded onto the lock shaft using the 7/16 socket and a hammer (ideally a deep-well socket...) but frankly this part looks "extra credit" to me. There are two washers that should be used between the nut and the cable on the two latches as shown in my picture (to keep the serrated nut from damaging the cable.)

Overall, I like it.