After a nightmarish $2000+ repair experience with a gate operator from another company (which came with the house's gate when I bought it four years ago), I was desperate to find a DIY solution. After reading the reviews I went with the "heavy duty" double operator (AC power) kit from Ghost. I'm glad I did.

It quickly became apparent to me that if you already have a tube gate with 6x6" wood posts, the installation is probably a breeze. In my case, I had 4x4 posts made from 1/4" thick steel, which was the single biggest complicating factor, and the reason I'd give this kit 4 stars instead of 5. Everything else about the kit is excellent. The instructions are reasonably clear, and available online before you buy: just Google "ghost controls installation guide" in case you want to look them up for a sanity check. Also, the tech support team spent probably over an hour on the phone with me BEFORE I bought the product so I could be sure to buy the right kit and accessories. This level of support was awesome.

Some tips if you buy this:
- The instructions and product page don't specify minimum gate width but they only list weight limits for gates 5' wide or larger. My gate panels are 49" wide each (exterior frame dimension) and the "heavy duty series" had no problem fitting - with probably 8" to spare. (This means it probably would've worked with a gate as narrow as 41".)
- If you are plugging the included transformer into an outdoor outlet, you need to know its size to ensure fit: it's 2" deep (excluding plug prongs) by 3.25" high by 2.25" wide, which does fit into a the big ole "TayMac 1 gang extra duty in-use outlet cover" (which is what I had and you can get on Amazon or a big box store).
- How to change the force setting is not mentioned in the instructions, though you will see "FORCE" and a turnable mini-knob on the control panel. When I got the unit, the factory setting was at about 75%, which was WAY too hard and knocked me right over when testing. (Keep in mind the operators are designed to work even if the gate weights like 1000 lbs, which may explain this.) Using the supplied micro-screwdriver, I set it to 0% which felt just about right for my gate, meaning at 0% it would probably not injure someone if they got trapped, but still would close the gate in strong wind.
- Their remotes are designed for range, not compactness. Fortunately, I've found that the keychain-size Xihada remotes on Amazon are compatible. I've now programmed four of the Xihadas to operate my Ghost gate, and I use them instead of the supplied remotes.
- If you have 4x4 rectangular steel posts like I did, there are lots of notes for you. First, plan to buy not just a big expensive cobalt bit and cutting oil to drill the posts, but an oversized cobalt bit (e.g. 1/2") to make a hole big enough for a ~1000 lb exterior rated anchor since you probably won't be able to drill through both sides of the steel. And buy said anchors themselves (e.g. Toggler snap toggles with 1/4" bolts). Also you'll need extra washers in case you must angle the pivot bracket from the post; its design allows very coarse 20 degree increments which may prevent you from being able to fully open or close the gate without mods. You will also want extra 1/8" tall 1/2" hole size nylon bushings since the ones they provide to mount the arms are just slightly too short which further exacerbates the angle problem. (Ghost - if you're reading this, let's get in touch and I'll describe these issues in detail to hopefully make future products more robust out of the box.)

Overall, very happy with the purchase and the installation experience. If I had to do it all over again, I would still choose Ghost.

The media could not be loaded. First snd foremost, I am a novice at using power tools or being handy. So installing this system seemed like it was going to be tough for me. Secondly, note that I tried a few different gate openers prior to going with Ghost Controls and I wish I would had just spent the extra $100 on the first go around and had gone with Ghost Controls.

Installation

I watched the videos a few times then started mentally preparing for the install. Having tried installing two other gate opener systems I wasn't as nervous about ghost due to the installation videos and testimonials alone but I was prepared for a challenge.

I first mounted the controller box and battery box to my stone posts, followed by the solar panel. See attached image.

Once the boxes were installed I hooked up my batteries to the controller following the simple installation and the provided connection cable.

I then connected the first gate opener, closest to the control box, and began testing the open/close functionality setting the stopping angle.

Note - I fumbled around with figuring out the right placement for the mounts and actually had to move them due to the angle not giving the opener enough space to open fully. This was really the only tricky part of the install which was only tricky because my mind couldn't wrap my head around how it was supposed to laid out. However, after seeing my mistake it was easy to just readjust and redrill the stone post holes and refasten to my stone posts.

After the first opener was installed I followed the same process for the second opener drilling my holes, fastening the mount, then adding the opener. This took about 10 minutes.

I then marked and drilled the opener connector to the gate using the provided mount. A simple two hole per opener, one on each gate. I then fastened the mount to the gate. This took about 10 minutes.

I just left the second opener's long cable on the ground, to be buried later when I was doing cable management.

Once I had both openers installed on each gate, and their open/close positions set on the controller I then got to digging the trench for the second opener. I have 9' gates so a quick 20' trench using a pitch axe took a good 15 minutes due to the crushed concrete driveway.

After the trench was ready I then disconnected the openers from the control panel and fed them through 3/4 conduit. This took about 5 minutes total. Once you everything was fed through I buried my conduit and then drilled the holes in the stone for the pipe connectors. This took about 10 minutes.

Using a bit of liquid nails glue I dipped each screw in it and then fastened it to the stone sealing the hold and screw (see image).

That was it. The install took about a total of 4-5 hours total over a Saturday and Sunday but was extremely easy and sort of fun.

Instructions

The instructions are simple to follow and are probably the best written that I've seen for openers. I tried Mighty Mule and another opener system before going with Ghost. Ghost was soooo easy to install.

Speed

The open and close speed is pretty quick and takes about 25 seconds. See my video for an example. This was much faster than the Mighty Mule and other opener controller I tried. Note, the far side opener will open a few seconds after the short side opener does, and will close first before the short side closes. This is to stagger the open/close functioning and normal.

Options

I ordered the keypad and the touch garage openers which we will secure inside a lockbox to allow easy access for anyone needing to get in while we aren't home. They come in a few days and once everything is ready to go I'll update this review.

Overall

I highly recommend this system for anyone wanting an easy to install am opener whether for a home or property. It not only works amazing, it looks exactly what I wanted and it was extremely easy, even for a novice not-so-handyman like me.

I bought the gate opener, the lock, an extra remote and two cordless keypads for guests coming and going. It wasn't too bad installing. Here are some tips. First, i built my support columns out of 6x6 wooden posts buried 2 feet in concrete. They recommend installing the opener with posts but I wrapped the posts in salvaged stone I cut with a grinder. To affix the opener and lock I built out the posts with chunks of 4x4 as pictured. That way I could screw into wood rather than stone which I thought might not hold. The posts took about 12 hours and I am a general contractor. On the lock side i had to leave room in the stone for the zombie lock to grab hold of the stationary vertical bolt it grabs as it extends beyond the gate and my gate closes close to the stone. They say not to put a wheel on the gate which i understand in most situations. However, my driveway runs downhill and the wheel only touches ground just before the gate closes. With a wheel, my gate support post has the weight taken off it and the zombie lock glides in perfectly every time. Beneath the wheel right where the gate closes I poured some mortar flush to the ground into a small depression i dug. That way the wheel does not wear a groove into the ground defeating its purpose of gate support. Where the wheel attaches to the gate and where the arm attaches to the gate, you must bolt through everything or the wheel will rotate up and the arm will slide. If the arm slides just a little the gate will not keep shutting correctly. I thought the wiring would be hard but it was easy. The instructions were pretty good but i watched some videos on you tube. Programming remotes and keypads took longer than i would like. After you get it, its easy, but it does take a while.. The instructions they provided with the keyless pad for guests included an addendum i did not see at first. The addendum explained the programming of the keypad whereas the original instructions did not. That drove me mad for an hour and a half so i called customer service. They got back to me the next day but by then i had figured it out. It took a little while to find the buttons in the control box you must press when you first teach the opener how far to open and close. Also, that first week, my gate was smetimes just barely hitting the stone when it closed. So occasionaly it would have to stop short of closing. When it did that it would jump back a foot and stay there. It took me a while to figure out that's what it does when it hits an object while closing. Anyway, the gate was real work - mostly the stone I wanted and it took a while to iron out all of the above issues. But it has been working to perfection now for weeks and oh what a pleasure not to get out of the truck especially in the rain. I highly recommend it. A cut above the low end openers with fewer options.. Lastly, this gate, yours too, is simply a privacy feature. If somebody breaks through it I know what to do. It can easily be defeated with a wrench. You just have to unbolt the arm from the gate. Same with the lock. If somebody dislikes you they can snip the electrical control cord or steal your battery or smash the control box. All very unlikely but thats the reality.

One year later or thereabouts the gate is still working great. I am.happy with it. On several occasions over the year, maybe 6 times, it has done something weird like close and then open back up partially when i have gone. At first I tried reprogramming it. Later, i just unhooked it from the battery and it seemed to reset itself and operate properly again. It just gives me peace of mind, and stops the door to door marketers and others i don't want from coming to my house especially when I am not home. So a couple glitches here and there is tolerable. Anybody can open this gate by removing a pin from the hydraulic piston that closes it, but if they do that, they understand why i have a gun in my hand when they show up. Haven't needed to do that, which is why i love the gate.

Takes a little while to get them adjusted after being installed, but once you do, they are awesome.

This review is for the TSS1 Single Automatic Gate Opener. For the impatient among us, here's the bottom line first:

Pluses:
Good control arm, I like the design
Decent quality hardware
Easy to program control panel
Good instructions
Easy to add other stuff (locks, vehicle sensors, manual close/open buttons)

Minuses:
A bit onerous to install, it took me almost a full day. In all honesty, that's just nature of the beast.
Control panel wouldn't synch to the remotes installed in my older cars.
$22 if you need to purchase "Push to Open" brackets; I think they're overpriced.

Bottom Line: I like it. My neighbor (a retired electrical engineer) and I were both suitably impressed with this gate opener. It's a good unit for the money and I'd buy one again.

Installation specific's for my application:

I bought this unit to replace a gate opener that had finally worn out. My gate is set 25 feet back from the street and opens out, towards the street. The old opener was a "Push Open" model which was mounted on the driveway side of the opened gate. I removed all of those old brackets essentially making this a fresh install in the "Push to Close" configuration. I did this because it puts the control arm on the outside of my gate which leaves me with a slightly wider driveway. It's also worth noting that I made sure my hinges were plumb and the gate moved smoothly. I had to replace/upgrade my hinges but that's another story.

Make sure you know if your gate will be configured as a push to open or push to close. The push to close brackets are included with this unit. They soak you $22 for their set of push to open brackets. These brackets are two simple pieces of flat iron with three holes drilled in each one, I believe they are over priced.

The installation instructions were some of the best I've seen and with one minor exception which I'll cover later, clearly written. The process is this; you mount the half circle base assembly on the fence post with the hinges. This base has four holes which allows you to bolt it to (through or around) the post. The placement of this base is critical. I initially had it centered on my three inch (square) post however, when the gate was opened all the way (it opens about 95 degrees from closed) it struck the side of the bracket and prevented the gate from opening all the way. I re-mounted the bracket so the gate side of the bracket was flush with the post. Next you attach the two flat pieces that span between the control arm and the half round piece. There are adjustment holes around the circumference of the half round bracket that allow you position the hinge side of the control arm where you need it. You need 4 1/2" of clearance between the hole where the control arm attaches and the face of the fully opened gate. When I adjusted the arms to the first hole that gave me >4 1/2" clearance I found that the housing of the control arm struck the half circle bracket before the gate was fully closed. I was able to fix this by adjusting and welding the arms half way between the holes which gave me the clearance I needed at both ends. Note to Ghost Controls: You might want to leave a bit more flat area on this end of the control arm so people don't run into the interference issue.

Next, with the gate fully opened you measure 35" from the holes on the arms you just set to the surface of the gate where you will be mounting the second control arm bracket. This is my one beef with the instructions; they specify 35" on the set-up diagram and never mention it again. This is a very important dimension because the gate has to be positioned exactly where you want "fully opened " to be before you permanently affix this bracket as you can't adjust the open position electronically. I clamped that bracket where I thought it belonged (35" to the center) and moved on to the controller box.

I mounted and wired up the controller box, it was very straight forward. Once everything was up and running, I followed the excellent instructions to set the gate closed position. I cycled the gate a few times and fine tuned the location of the second bracket until the opened gate was exactly where I wanted it. Then I welded it down, it could have been just as easily bolted.

Lastly, since my control arm is now outside the gate (when it's closed) I wanted an option to prevent it's theft. Ghost Controls sells a clevis pin with a padlock for $33 however, I bought a 1/2" trailer hitch lock (which I like better) for $30. The hitch lock is the perfect size for the bushing in controller arm but a bit too small for the brackets. I drilled the brackets out to fit the new locking pin.

Edited for spelling/clarity. If anything changes, I'll update this review.