Easy to install and setup the system. After 3 weeks of daily use it is working well.

Enclosure quality for the controller is not great. It's functional but is in no way rugged. Battery box, sold separatly, is a rip-off at $60 for a small empty plastic box in my opinion. I suggest buying a cheap Walmart deep-cycle marine battery and a $10 marine battery box instead. You will save money and have about 5 times the reserve power (Amp-hours) of the 2 AGM cells that Ghost sells and recommends.

If you want a gate opener system that works and you don't care about the cost, Ghost does provide an easy DIY option if you buy into all of their accessories. But you will not have an industrially rugged or particularly attractive installation.

I won't go into details about the security issue but the GhostCode is not secure. If you want security, install a rolling code wireless remote and wire it into the Ghost Controls unit. The Ghost claim that there are 4 million possible codes in the "GhostCode" is correct ( I verified it) but it sends the same code every time.

This means you can by a 4-pack of recording wireless remotes on amazon for $20 and clone the GhostCodes. Search for QIACHIP on amazon and you should find some remotes that work. Ghost does use the newer and less common 433 MHz frequency band so there is a slight additional barrier to copying.

Ghost skimped on security by using a standard repeating code instead of the secure, garage-door-opener industry standard of rolling codes where each press of the remote sends a unique code with millions of possible options.

Gate opening range on the cheap, $5ea, cloning remotes is the same as the ghost remote as far as I can tell. About 500 feet for both the original ghost remote and the cheap remotes in my daily use so far.

I bought the gate opener, the lock, an extra remote and two cordless keypads for guests coming and going. It wasn't too bad installing. Here are some tips. First, i built my support columns out of 6x6 wooden posts buried 2 feet in concrete. They recommend installing the opener with posts but I wrapped the posts in salvaged stone I cut with a grinder. To affix the opener and lock I built out the posts with chunks of 4x4 as pictured. That way I could screw into wood rather than stone which I thought might not hold. The posts took about 12 hours and I am a general contractor. On the lock side i had to leave room in the stone for the zombie lock to grab hold of the stationary vertical bolt it grabs as it extends beyond the gate and my gate closes close to the stone. They say not to put a wheel on the gate which i understand in most situations. However, my driveway runs downhill and the wheel only touches ground just before the gate closes. With a wheel, my gate support post has the weight taken off it and the zombie lock glides in perfectly every time. Beneath the wheel right where the gate closes I poured some mortar flush to the ground into a small depression i dug. That way the wheel does not wear a groove into the ground defeating its purpose of gate support. Where the wheel attaches to the gate and where the arm attaches to the gate, you must bolt through everything or the wheel will rotate up and the arm will slide. If the arm slides just a little the gate will not keep shutting correctly. I thought the wiring would be hard but it was easy. The instructions were pretty good but i watched some videos on you tube. Programming remotes and keypads took longer than i would like. After you get it, its easy, but it does take a while.. The instructions they provided with the keyless pad for guests included an addendum i did not see at first. The addendum explained the programming of the keypad whereas the original instructions did not. That drove me mad for an hour and a half so i called customer service. They got back to me the next day but by then i had figured it out. It took a little while to find the buttons in the control box you must press when you first teach the opener how far to open and close. Also, that first week, my gate was smetimes just barely hitting the stone when it closed. So occasionaly it would have to stop short of closing. When it did that it would jump back a foot and stay there. It took me a while to figure out that's what it does when it hits an object while closing. Anyway, the gate was real work - mostly the stone I wanted and it took a while to iron out all of the above issues. But it has been working to perfection now for weeks and oh what a pleasure not to get out of the truck especially in the rain. I highly recommend it. A cut above the low end openers with fewer options.. Lastly, this gate, yours too, is simply a privacy feature. If somebody breaks through it I know what to do. It can easily be defeated with a wrench. You just have to unbolt the arm from the gate. Same with the lock. If somebody dislikes you they can snip the electrical control cord or steal your battery or smash the control box. All very unlikely but thats the reality.

One year later or thereabouts the gate is still working great. I am.happy with it. On several occasions over the year, maybe 6 times, it has done something weird like close and then open back up partially when i have gone. At first I tried reprogramming it. Later, i just unhooked it from the battery and it seemed to reset itself and operate properly again. It just gives me peace of mind, and stops the door to door marketers and others i don't want from coming to my house especially when I am not home. So a couple glitches here and there is tolerable. Anybody can open this gate by removing a pin from the hydraulic piston that closes it, but if they do that, they understand why i have a gun in my hand when they show up. Haven't needed to do that, which is why i love the gate.

After a nightmarish $2000+ repair experience with a gate operator from another company (which came with the house's gate when I bought it four years ago), I was desperate to find a DIY solution. After reading the reviews I went with the "heavy duty" double operator (AC power) kit from Ghost. I'm glad I did.

It quickly became apparent to me that if you already have a tube gate with 6x6" wood posts, the installation is probably a breeze. In my case, I had 4x4 posts made from 1/4" thick steel, which was the single biggest complicating factor, and the reason I'd give this kit 4 stars instead of 5. Everything else about the kit is excellent. The instructions are reasonably clear, and available online before you buy: just Google "ghost controls installation guide" in case you want to look them up for a sanity check. Also, the tech support team spent probably over an hour on the phone with me BEFORE I bought the product so I could be sure to buy the right kit and accessories. This level of support was awesome.

Some tips if you buy this:
- The instructions and product page don't specify minimum gate width but they only list weight limits for gates 5' wide or larger. My gate panels are 49" wide each (exterior frame dimension) and the "heavy duty series" had no problem fitting - with probably 8" to spare. (This means it probably would've worked with a gate as narrow as 41".)
- If you are plugging the included transformer into an outdoor outlet, you need to know its size to ensure fit: it's 2" deep (excluding plug prongs) by 3.25" high by 2.25" wide, which does fit into a the big ole "TayMac 1 gang extra duty in-use outlet cover" (which is what I had and you can get on Amazon or a big box store).
- How to change the force setting is not mentioned in the instructions, though you will see "FORCE" and a turnable mini-knob on the control panel. When I got the unit, the factory setting was at about 75%, which was WAY too hard and knocked me right over when testing. (Keep in mind the operators are designed to work even if the gate weights like 1000 lbs, which may explain this.) Using the supplied micro-screwdriver, I set it to 0% which felt just about right for my gate, meaning at 0% it would probably not injure someone if they got trapped, but still would close the gate in strong wind.
- Their remotes are designed for range, not compactness. Fortunately, I've found that the keychain-size Xihada remotes on Amazon are compatible. I've now programmed four of the Xihadas to operate my Ghost gate, and I use them instead of the supplied remotes.
- If you have 4x4 rectangular steel posts like I did, there are lots of notes for you. First, plan to buy not just a big expensive cobalt bit and cutting oil to drill the posts, but an oversized cobalt bit (e.g. 1/2") to make a hole big enough for a ~1000 lb exterior rated anchor since you probably won't be able to drill through both sides of the steel. And buy said anchors themselves (e.g. Toggler snap toggles with 1/4" bolts). Also you'll need extra washers in case you must angle the pivot bracket from the post; its design allows very coarse 20 degree increments which may prevent you from being able to fully open or close the gate without mods. You will also want extra 1/8" tall 1/2" hole size nylon bushings since the ones they provide to mount the arms are just slightly too short which further exacerbates the angle problem. (Ghost - if you're reading this, let's get in touch and I'll describe these issues in detail to hopefully make future products more robust out of the box.)

Overall, very happy with the purchase and the installation experience. If I had to do it all over again, I would still choose Ghost.

I was hesitant to purchase a solar gate opener. My nephew and his friend (who is a retired electrician) installed it in just a few hours. It was pretty easy for them, but they are pretty construction savvy. It works great on two, nine-foot metal gates. The remote works from a long distance too. Highly recommend!

Just installed these on my gates. install is straight forward, just follow the instructions. Took a bit to get everything adjusted. They work great and look good. And added note, I called customer service with a couple of questions. I was able to speak to a person who was very helpful. It appears to me they thought of everything i needed was in the box. highly recommend