My wife wanted a barn door in the laundry room so any cockroaches might be fee to pass from over under around and through.

True to my calling as expressed by singer Barry White in "Never Gonna Give You Up" when he says "gotta make you pleased in every way I can," I did it!

This product from China perhaps made from steel from New York's WTC works great.

My door was 53" wide and I needed more railing so I got four more feet from a local steel supplier and welded it using my $78 Harbor Freight flux welder.

Cut the additional holes. Used new bolts and a couple dozen washers painted black and hung it all myself.

Sorry guys, your wife may read this and take away all your excuses!

Debbie Downer's first cousin

Very nice track at a good price for Barn Doors. I got the 13' long track for double doors and I only have 1 complaint with it. The track is not "made" for a 13' long system. It is 2 systems both 6.5' long, installed side by side. Each 6.5' section has the top track sent in 2 pieces. The 2 pieces of track have like a puzzle piece cutout at the joint so the 2 pieces of tracks lock together and are held that way by the mounting hole that happens right at the joint. It is a very solid joint once installed. The joint between both of the 6.5' systems though to get you up to 13' does not have the same puzzle piece locking. Both tracks just butt to each other. I was not expecting this as the pictures of the product do not show that and actually show the details like other tracks available on amazon where there is a bracket that holds the tracks together.

So be sure you understand this before buying this track. I had to adjust my expectations when my box arrived but used it as I needed to get the track up that day and didn't have any time to re-buy a different product.

This worked awesome for our custom barn door that my husband made. Looks super classy as well. My only recommendation would be to also purchase a floor guide (sold separately) so that the door does not swing out on the bottom.

What a deal! Umax quality is awesome and this comes at such an affordable price! Install was easy. I had to use a header board because my wall studs weren't in perfect line for this product. BE SURE to measure the distance between the holes in the track. The instructions were maybe slightly unclear? or wrong. I marked where I was going to predrill my holes in my header for the track and checked the track against the marks to find that the marks were off. Other than that, install was super easy and looks and works great!

Overall I'm really happy I took a chance and bought here rather than Lowe's for what looks like the same thing for 4X the price!
I'd echo many other reviewers. No idea where they came up with their measurements regarding stud placement. However, I knew this going in and also knew from lots of other projects that I rarely find studs consistently 16 on center in my 65 year old house. I also knew that things get different around the doorframe (NOT a professional obviously!)
It was a good solution for me for an awkward bathroom. It was an addition some years ago and they kind of squeezed it in. You couldn't have the bedroom door next to it open at the same time the bathroom door was open but this worked out great.
I used the old original cheap door with the sunken panels which turned out to be a lot of work. I wanted the sunken parts to be flat so I could build what you see in the pics. Filled them in with scrap paneling and leveled with floor leveler. Then used leftover laminate wood flooring glued and nailed on top of that. Then ripped apart an old pallet for the trim. I sanded that pretty well, light stain, and some polyurethane. I used galvanized pipe for a handle which was the only thing I didn't have laying around the basement. Easy and I think looks good.
Some tips learned the hard way:
- if you use the same door you had before it's probably too short and narrow as it was meant to fit inside the frame. I added 2x4's to the bottom and sides then covered them up.
- i used the lag bolts that came with the hardware along with the Pre-drilled holes in the rail and matched up wherever I could to studs. Drilled two more holes in the rail and added two additional lag bolts to ensure at least 4 were going into studs. I used a bunch of washers for the spacer between the rail and wall (spray painted black). My door weights at least 50 lbs or more but it's holding great with this setup
- Measure, measure again, sleep on it, get up and measure again before you cut or drill. If your door is too thick (I had to place straps under trim on door for correct distance from rail) it'll be a problem
- Directions show you the basics but are a bit vague. I found some online for a different brand but I think are exactly the same. Took pics of those and posted in this review. They were helpful
- Those little round discs go on top of the door and won't allow door to be lifted off rail unless they're turned. Notice the hole in them is off center. Screw them in not super tight and spin them so they're hanging off the top of the door. Put the door over the rail and spin them back so they're completely over the door
- The "door stops" mount on the rail and limit how far left or right the door can go. They're adjustable even with the rail on. However, you can't slide them over the head of the lag bolts so you should have a pretty good idea where the limits of your door will be before you put them on or like me you'll have to take out a lag bolt, slide the stop over, then put the lag bolt back in
- check your clearance between the inside of your door and the door casing. I had to countersink the bolts from the straps on the inside so they wouldn't hit the door casing
I know that's a lot of info but hopefully helpful. The hardware is good. Wheels roll easily on the track, etc. just be prepared to think it through and plan on a lot longer than you think if you're a regular homeowner like me!