BOKYWOX Hot Water Circulating Pump - 3/4'' NPT, 3-Speed Stainless Steel 304, Blue








Key features
- •1.Can be used directly in drinking water pipelines. The water taste of lubricating oil will disappear after 3 to 5 times of use. The shaft of pump should be kept horizontal after installation.
- •2.Max Working Pressure: 10bar(145PSI).Power Cord: 4.1ft. Liquid temperature range: 0℉ -+212℉
- •3.No leakage, low noise, environmental protection, aesthetics, ease of installation and so on.
- •4.Suitable for medium: Hot water and ethanol maximum ratio of 1:1.
- •5.Materials: Pump body: Stainless Steel 304; Impeller: Corrosion-resistant, Composite, PES; Shaft: Ceramic; Bearing: Ceramic
BOKYWOX Hot Water Circulating Pump - 3/4'' NPT, 3-Speed Stainless Steel 304, Blue
List Price: $107.42$96.68DEALYou Save: $10.74 (10%)
Free shippingFree Returns – 30 daysFree Order CancellationSecure Payment2–3 Days DeliveryGet It June 23, 2026In Stock (1)No marketing spamNo account requiredFulfilment by FedEx / Amazon / UPS / ShipwirePayPal / Card Buyer Protection
Customer Reviews
Reviews sourced from verified Amazon purchasers4.0
out of 5
Based on 10 reviews
5★
70%
4★
30%
3★
0%
2★
0%
1★
0%
Got for my hot tub heat circulation pump
Jenkins✓ Verified Purchase•August 10, 2023
Mine died and was very expensive to replace this did the trick and was much better priced hope it lasts for years
Very quite pump
Diogenes Monsanto✓ Verified Purchase•July 8, 2023
I installed the pump and it has been working smoothly for 2 months now. I bought the pump with the stainless steel propeller & housing for it's longevity. Hopefully that will be the case, we will find out. But the pump has been working with no issues and is very quite.
I have it setup to the highest setting to circulate the hot water faster to the other side of the house as the hot water heater is located at the very end of the garage. So it has to travel about 60 to 70 feet to the master bedroom. It takes the pump abut 30 to 45 seconds to circulate the hot water to the bathroom, and depending on the outside temperature. I am in Central Florida, and when it gets in the 30's, it takes the pump about 45 seconds. which to me is not a long time for the distance it has to travel.
The only issue I have is with the toggle switch, which is the third one to the right of three set of switched, that I have to keep press for the 45 seconds to circulate the hot water to the bathroom. I need to look into a 1 minute dial timer that I can set for 45 seconds and do what I need to do.
I do recommend this pump as it is very quite and smooth operation, and also because it has a stainless steel propeller and housing that will last longer than one made out of steel.
I have it setup to the highest setting to circulate the hot water faster to the other side of the house as the hot water heater is located at the very end of the garage. So it has to travel about 60 to 70 feet to the master bedroom. It takes the pump abut 30 to 45 seconds to circulate the hot water to the bathroom, and depending on the outside temperature. I am in Central Florida, and when it gets in the 30's, it takes the pump about 45 seconds. which to me is not a long time for the distance it has to travel.
The only issue I have is with the toggle switch, which is the third one to the right of three set of switched, that I have to keep press for the 45 seconds to circulate the hot water to the bathroom. I need to look into a 1 minute dial timer that I can set for 45 seconds and do what I need to do.
I do recommend this pump as it is very quite and smooth operation, and also because it has a stainless steel propeller and housing that will last longer than one made out of steel.
Non-stainless will RUST, confirm adapters, works with tankless (with caveats)
Aaron✓ Verified Purchase•July 2, 2023
My positive rating is for the stainless version I ended up using (RS15-6SB). I had initially purchased a non-stainless version of the same pump under a different "brand" (KolerFlo) and the issues I had are summarized below but I'm 99% sure the issues with that one would also apply to this BokyWox line so I'm including my review for people to hopefully learn from.
TLDR: The non-stainless version WILL rust; try different versions (and different "brands") of this pump if yours doesn't seem to pump enough water; ensure your pump comes with the pipe fitting adapters (that have o-rings) because the threads are NOT true NPT-fit threads and will leak; instructions are a joke so read enough reviews/do your own research to make sure you know how to install this (it's not complicated but the instructions make you question your own intelligence); no "on/off" switch so plan to use with a switched outlet or smart outlet for control.
This review is for a non-stainless KolerFlo unit I bought (RS15-6 Blue). I intended to use it with the Grundfos-made thermal bypass valve for creating a water recirculation circuit for my tankless water heater system. I saw several reviews that said this worked for people, but it was not always clear whether they had a tankless system or not. Tankless water heaters require a minimum amount of water flow to turn on (typically ~0.5gpm) and after plumbing this pump and the bypass valve, I discovered that I would only get about 0.3gpm through my water heater. I tried all the power settings on the pump, "bleeding" the air with the screw on the front and flushing the lines, nothing helped. "Bleeding" with the air screw did let out some spits of air/water but the way the o-ring seal is designed, there is no way to get it to seal again while the pump is running so beware of doing that and/or be prepared to get wet. I "knew" that the fittings were 3/4" MIP so I also bought all the associated hardware to plumb this into the existing copper hardline on the INLET to my heater (used SharkBite fittings + 3/4" coupling to a 3/4" nipple so that I could have something rigid to use for mounting with 3/4" pipe clamps). The installation was fine except that even with a more-than-typical amount of teflon tape, I was not able to get a leak-free connection between the coupling and the pump. I made the connections quite tight and I was worried I would over-tighten and crack something. I did make a simple plywood base to allow the flat sections of the pump to rest since my pipe situation would not support the pump on its own.
Since the pump did turn on and wasn't overheating or making any weird noises (it was very quiet actually), I assumed that I was just out of luck since the Grundfos valve kit I purchased actually did explicitly state that it was not for use with tankless water heaters (though it said the reason was that it was not designed to be used with systems that had a water-return circuit). After a couple of days I uninstalled the pump again to see if I could figure out if there was something mechanically wrong, and that is when I saw the RUST in the pump. I was very disappointed to see that and also very upset that I potentially put my family at risk for having that in our drinking water system. I also read someone else's review about making their own parallel valve circuit with two Grundfos valves and additional hoses/fittings to allow twice the flow through the valves. So in a second round of attempting to get functioning water circulation, I bought all the pieces needed for making the parallel valve setup AND a stainless-steel version of this pump, but under a different name brand (BokyWok).
Once I received the new parts, I first decided to just install the new pump and see if that would make any difference. I was surprised to find that there was actually an adapter in the kit that would connect to the pump with a 3/4" female O-RING fitting and then adapted to a true 3/4" NPT thread. I didn't end up using them, though, because I just tried to connect the SharkBite adapter hoses directly (the non-SharkBite end had a 3/4" female o-ring connector) and used some thick cardboard spacers to allow a standard 3/4" pipe clamp to secure the whole thing in place to my plywood base. After this simplified installation was done, I turned on the pump and the heater kicked on!! This was WITHOUT making any changes to the Grundfos thermal valve installation, and I was now seeing about 0.5-0.6gpm flow through the water heater.
This has been installed for a couple of weeks and still working fine...returning the crappy pump I received and the now unnecessary additional thermal bypass valve components. Lots of small lessons here, but my biggest suggestion is to try at least a couple of pumps from multiple vendors if yours isn't working. I looked at many pumps and they all seem to be the exact same imported hardware with various branded stickers on them (including the "official" Grundfos ones).
TLDR: The non-stainless version WILL rust; try different versions (and different "brands") of this pump if yours doesn't seem to pump enough water; ensure your pump comes with the pipe fitting adapters (that have o-rings) because the threads are NOT true NPT-fit threads and will leak; instructions are a joke so read enough reviews/do your own research to make sure you know how to install this (it's not complicated but the instructions make you question your own intelligence); no "on/off" switch so plan to use with a switched outlet or smart outlet for control.
This review is for a non-stainless KolerFlo unit I bought (RS15-6 Blue). I intended to use it with the Grundfos-made thermal bypass valve for creating a water recirculation circuit for my tankless water heater system. I saw several reviews that said this worked for people, but it was not always clear whether they had a tankless system or not. Tankless water heaters require a minimum amount of water flow to turn on (typically ~0.5gpm) and after plumbing this pump and the bypass valve, I discovered that I would only get about 0.3gpm through my water heater. I tried all the power settings on the pump, "bleeding" the air with the screw on the front and flushing the lines, nothing helped. "Bleeding" with the air screw did let out some spits of air/water but the way the o-ring seal is designed, there is no way to get it to seal again while the pump is running so beware of doing that and/or be prepared to get wet. I "knew" that the fittings were 3/4" MIP so I also bought all the associated hardware to plumb this into the existing copper hardline on the INLET to my heater (used SharkBite fittings + 3/4" coupling to a 3/4" nipple so that I could have something rigid to use for mounting with 3/4" pipe clamps). The installation was fine except that even with a more-than-typical amount of teflon tape, I was not able to get a leak-free connection between the coupling and the pump. I made the connections quite tight and I was worried I would over-tighten and crack something. I did make a simple plywood base to allow the flat sections of the pump to rest since my pipe situation would not support the pump on its own.
Since the pump did turn on and wasn't overheating or making any weird noises (it was very quiet actually), I assumed that I was just out of luck since the Grundfos valve kit I purchased actually did explicitly state that it was not for use with tankless water heaters (though it said the reason was that it was not designed to be used with systems that had a water-return circuit). After a couple of days I uninstalled the pump again to see if I could figure out if there was something mechanically wrong, and that is when I saw the RUST in the pump. I was very disappointed to see that and also very upset that I potentially put my family at risk for having that in our drinking water system. I also read someone else's review about making their own parallel valve circuit with two Grundfos valves and additional hoses/fittings to allow twice the flow through the valves. So in a second round of attempting to get functioning water circulation, I bought all the pieces needed for making the parallel valve setup AND a stainless-steel version of this pump, but under a different name brand (BokyWok).
Once I received the new parts, I first decided to just install the new pump and see if that would make any difference. I was surprised to find that there was actually an adapter in the kit that would connect to the pump with a 3/4" female O-RING fitting and then adapted to a true 3/4" NPT thread. I didn't end up using them, though, because I just tried to connect the SharkBite adapter hoses directly (the non-SharkBite end had a 3/4" female o-ring connector) and used some thick cardboard spacers to allow a standard 3/4" pipe clamp to secure the whole thing in place to my plywood base. After this simplified installation was done, I turned on the pump and the heater kicked on!! This was WITHOUT making any changes to the Grundfos thermal valve installation, and I was now seeing about 0.5-0.6gpm flow through the water heater.
This has been installed for a couple of weeks and still working fine...returning the crappy pump I received and the now unnecessary additional thermal bypass valve components. Lots of small lessons here, but my biggest suggestion is to try at least a couple of pumps from multiple vendors if yours isn't working. I looked at many pumps and they all seem to be the exact same imported hardware with various branded stickers on them (including the "official" Grundfos ones).
Love having instant hot water
Renee✓ Verified Purchase•July 2, 2023
It was a snap to install (which means my handy husband took care of that part ;-)) and now I have instant hot water instead of running the tap forever!
Great Pump Good Value
BrewBoy✓ Verified Purchase•June 22, 2023
Purchased this to assist my Rinnai Tankless Hot Water heater after watching a guy on You-Tube who purchased one and raved about it. Post Covid19 prices went up significantly for this kind of plumbing equipment but this was very reasonable and seems to work well. Very quiet and east to install. Longevity will be the big question so I bought the Assurian 4 year Warranty just to be safe.
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