The media could not be loaded. I purchased the 36 pattern wave wagger. Totally worth the money. I hooked mine to my high beams and it moves traffic as it should. It comes with a detacbable button thsg you use to select your patfern. That is very cool so you don't have to keep touching a wire to chamge pattern all you do is press the button look at the two red led lights on the module and choose your favorite. Very simple to hook up and well worth the money. I need another one now.

Fantastic little flasher! I actually purchased two of these, One for the rear light bar and the other for the corner strobes so I could activate them independently of one another. I used PC board standoffs to stack them one over the other to save room in the controller box. Super easy to wire and the selection of flash patterns is outstanding. One note of caution, some LED strobe heads (ones with internal flash patterns ) won't handle the faster flash rates this flasher puts out and it won't appear it's working. Switching to a slower flash rate or using heads that do not have internal flashers will fix that.

This thing works as advertised. If you have an experimental aircraft, this will wig wag your landing lights for high traffic areas. Solid piece and works. Easy to program.

I bought several of these units and went back for more. They offer 36 patterns so you're sure to find one you like. High current output is great too. Definitely a good product and offers more patterns than any others I've seen.

The media could not be loaded. I uploaded a full length demonstration video of all patterns and showed the reset function at the end.

The first one came with some unknown error & I was hoping I just didn't understand how to reset it as it has last state memory so I contacted the email address included in the package. I also messaged on here and Vanessa responded to me promptly giving me a cell number to Angelo who is a tech. I was able to send him a video via text & he assisted me with the product & it's replacement then & there.

This is a new model I'm told and so far, no one else has had any issues but it's great for what I want. I opened up the trash module to find everything sealed in a black silicon like adhesive. Once pulled out, the red LED side was exposed but there weren't any components.

Angelo was very kind and definitely wanted to help. I appreciate all of their assistance & concern which is why I speak so highly of him & Vanessa.

Both products had a strange smell when I opened the packages but I think it was the anti-static bag they were shipped in. As with any surface mount device, always be careful loading them down to full draw as heat kills things but I think the silicon would help some in dissipating the heat to the metal housing. I only need a couple amps out of it personally with LEDs but I did test it on a 921 style incandescent & it worked out better than expected. There is good latching internally verses a pulsed signal, not that it's relay driven, just that the IC has a good cutoff & you can see the on/off a lot better than some things that are made to pulse LEDs with PWM.

I was able to scrape off the silicon to find the chip part number & it's an AOD403 30v 70A. There are x2 per side. Looks like there's a processor that drives an LED & transistor to turn the mosfet on/off. The problem with mine appears that a transistor or one of the D403's was bad & it was latched open.

Seems well made for small loads, I wouldn't personally drive 5A per side (like a headlight) due to heat buildup but from what I could tell, it should at least do it if you wanted.... depends on how long & what flash pattern. I included a very lightened up board photo to show what I worked so hard to reveal.

Buy one, be easy with it & have fun. The wires are about 12" & the button is only a couple inches so expect to extend the wiring. Be easy to choose the right gauge of wire for the load & distance as to not overheat anything & if I were you, I'd use fuses on the in & out just to protect everything if you're going to run a heavy load. I probed the grounds with a continuity & it seems like you wouldn't need to wire up the negative out as long as the light was grounded to the input ground.