WINSINN HT-NTC100K Thermistor Sensor, Ender 3 v2 Upgrade 3x15 3950 XH2.54 2Pin, Compatible with Ender 3 5 Pro CR6 CR10 Series 3D Printer Hotend (Pack of 5Pcs)
Key features
- •✔️Upgrade HT-NTC100K Thermistor: package temperature measurement. Head diameter: 3mm, Head length: 15mm
- •✔️The temperature measurement: -50 °C ~ +350 °C, can replace the original K-type thermocouple temperature. Fit for printing high-temperature filament.
- •✔️Adopts 304 stainless steel, with the internal temperature package to ensure the maximum service life with precision temperature measurement.
- •✔️HT-NTC100K thermistor adopts white high-temperature cord, can bear higher temperature. And for customers' convenience, the wires adopts line connection, the customer can tear the wires depends on their application. The high temperature line is double thicker than others in the market, not easy to break off.
- •✔️Made by WINSINN. Can be used with the New Sensor Heater Block (Temperature measurement can be up to 350 degrees).
WINSINN HT-NTC100K Thermistor Sensor, Ender 3 v2 Upgrade 3x15 3950 XH2.54 2Pin, Compatible with Ender 3 5 Pro CR6 CR10 Series 3D Printer Hotend (Pack of 5Pcs)
List Price: $21.32$19.19DEALYou Save: $2.13 (10%)
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Customer Reviews
Reviews sourced from verified Amazon purchasers4.5
out of 5
Based on 10 reviews
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Cable 6 inches too short for a e3 pro install.
TechPerson✓ Verified Purchase•August 13, 2023
Well made and once installed so far working well. I have it a easy to install of 4 because it's 6 inches shorter than the Creality thermistor cable. This restricts the x axis from going all the way up to 240-250mm. I bought the non changeable version. I was fortunate enough due to other hobbies to have a set of connectors on wires to make a jumper eith the extra 6-8" needed (8" better) I'm not futecif cutting and soldering in a extra length of wires would change the accuracy of the original crimped wires. Have extras that may be another answer, use one to make a longer cable? So except for this minor but important issue I'm liking how it's working! One other minor side is the shrink tubing on the thermistor is a little long and can stop the casing from inserting all the way into the heat block. A little trimming back of the shrink tubing and is webtvin all the way. If I was to buy again( have askers do ot may be done time) I think I'd buy the version with the replaceable thermistor tips. Mainly because running new sites inside the Creality black cable covering all the way to control board is time consuming. Not a complaint but a tip if your not sure about which version to buy.
So to sum it up, working great but may be a little short cable wise.
So to sum it up, working great but may be a little short cable wise.
They work when you have the right thermistor type in Marlin
E46Fanatic✓ Verified Purchase•July 4, 2023
I have had no issues with the performance. I did struggle in the beginning with temperature swings. I was using type 11 and 13 in Marlin. I found that type 1 works the best. There was only a 3-7 degree difference (across the print temp range) form what Marlin was reporting to what the measured temperature. I put a thermocouple in the nozzle and measured the temps at different settings. This took some time but it was the a sure way to figure out which temp table to use.
Requires custom calibration, but works well once dialed in.
Me I. Myself✓ Verified Purchase•July 3, 2023
Although these are being marketed as being 3D printer components, they may not match any printer firmware's thermistor profiles with sufficient accuracy to be useful. In my case I was getting an actual measured temp of about 150 deg. C when the printer thought it was 210. Hard to print even easy filaments like PLA when it's barely even softened instead of being properly molten.
If you're using firmware that understands Steinhart-Hart values (e.g., Klipper), here are the parameters that I got to work - these should get you close enough to do the job:
[thermistor winsinn_ht-ntc100k]
temperature1: 25
resistance1: 100000
temperature2: 80
resistance2: 8300
temperature3: 220
resistance3: 127
Put the above at the top of your printer config file, and in the [extruder] section add the lines "sensor_type: winsinn_ht-ntc100k" and "pullup_resistor: 4700" and your hotend should be pretty close to desired temps (read: within a couple percent) at typical filament temps.
If you're using firmware that understands Steinhart-Hart values (e.g., Klipper), here are the parameters that I got to work - these should get you close enough to do the job:
[thermistor winsinn_ht-ntc100k]
temperature1: 25
resistance1: 100000
temperature2: 80
resistance2: 8300
temperature3: 220
resistance3: 127
Put the above at the top of your printer config file, and in the [extruder] section add the lines "sensor_type: winsinn_ht-ntc100k" and "pullup_resistor: 4700" and your hotend should be pretty close to desired temps (read: within a couple percent) at typical filament temps.
They do the job
John✓ Verified Purchase•June 20, 2023
I am using these as chamber thermisters in my Voron 2.4 350mm x 350mm build. I had no issues adding them to my Klipper configuration and they appear to have a high degree of accuracy.
they work
Shawn✓ Verified Purchase•June 19, 2023
need just a couple more inches/mm on length but overall does its job.
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