Catchmaster Rat, Snake and Mouse Traps 8Pk, Large Bulk Glue Rat Traps for Home, Adhesive Plastic Tray for Inside House, Snake, Mice, & Spider Catcher, Pest Control for House & Garage








Key features
- •Non-toxic and safer to use around children and pets
- •Disposable trap
- •Ready to use - Pre-Baited
- •Heavy Duty
- •Place mouse traps perpendicular to the wall.
- •Place mouse traps out unset for a few days so rodents can become familiar with it
- •Place mouse traps where rodent activity is seen (sign of chewing, droppings, runway, and burrow)
- •Leave mouse traps undistributed for at least two days before moving to a new location.
- •Check mouse traps daily and replace as needed.
- •Wear gloves when disposing of rodent.
Catchmaster Rat, Snake and Mouse Traps 8Pk, Large Bulk Glue Rat Traps for Home, Adhesive Plastic Tray for Inside House, Snake, Mice, & Spider Catcher, Pest Control for House & Garage
List Price: $38.78$34.90DEALYou Save: $3.88 (10%)
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Customer Reviews
Reviews sourced from verified Amazon purchasers4.5
out of 5
Based on 10 reviews
5★
60%
4★
40%
3★
0%
2★
0%
1★
0%
Does it’s job, could use improvement
Tiiara Luxe✓ Verified Purchase•September 17, 2023
I use these traps to catch water bugs that sneak in at night when the dogs are let outside. These traps are incredibly sticky and no bug, no matter what size, is going to get back out. This trap has even caught a dog paw before and required human assistance to remove it, which is pretty impressive. These traps have high walls, however, that sometimes bugs just don't want to walk over. They'll just walk around a good chunk of the time. Overall, great traps for a good value.
Most effective way to get rid of rats and mice, with some caveats
B Christensen✓ Verified Purchase•September 12, 2023
There is a reason why professional exterminators use this and don't bother with "snap traps" - they flat out work. But there are a few things to keep in mind to make sure you get maximum effectiveness:
1. You must know the path that the critters are taking. Just spend some time getting inside the head of your vermin - they have a nest somewhere and they travel back and forth to food and water sources. They will usually travel against walls and along the tops of roof joists. If you find holes in walls, you will often see a dirty smudge where their filthy little tails drag along behind them. You will also see droppings (they seem to poop constantly). Place these traps in the high traffic areas, arranging them so that they are butted against walls, and along the trails they follow (think of the way ants travel in a line - rats and mice kind of do the same thing).
2. Don't bother with bait - if you follow the instructions in #1 above you don't need bait. I have never baited these things and I have caught a LOT of rats (my wife feeds birds in our yard and the seed attracts rats).
3. Do NOT use these outside or anywhere your pets or children can come in contact with them. If you put them outside, you will inevitably end up with a bird stuck to it, and unless you are a cold-hearted killer, you will feel awful. When I have to use them outside (like along the pathways the rats use to visit the bird feeders) I cover them with a long pice of plywood propped against the wall to create a "tunnel" and try to make it much more difficult for anything other than a rat or mouse to get stuck. Also, curious house cats will OFTEN get stuck in these, especially if there is a mouse or rat thrashing around on it and squeaking. Let me tell you that it is NO fun trying to pull one of these off your cat's face while there is a live rat stuck to it (or a toddler's shoe!). Also not covering them, you'll end up with a lot of leaf litter on them, which hinders their effectiveness.
4. Don't use these if you can't handle the sight of a dead (or dying) rat or mouse. Be prepared to "dispatch" the animal humanely once they are trapped. These traps do not cause instant death (the way snap traps do). The animal will eventually die (often from suffocation or shock) but the most humane thing to do is to kill them once you hear the squeaking and thrashing around. Speaking of which, it is fairly common (especially for a larger rat) to become partially stuck on one of these traps. I had a big wood rat get his back end stuck on one in my attic one night, and he flipped out, thrashing around and dragging it all over the place until I was able to crawl up there and "take him out". Outside, I usually use a shovel to decapitate them quickly when they get stuck. In the attic, I will usually use a very sharp hunting knife or a pair of lopping shears to decapitate them. (Did I mention this is not for squeamish people?). On a side note, don't leave these in the attic too long without checking them. Trust me, if you wait until you smell something funny, you are going to have a very unpleasant situation to deal with.
5. Make sure you wear rubber/latex/nitrile gloves while disposing of these once you have a dead mouse/rat. The reason is twofold: first, they are filthy disease-ridden creatures and they tend to poop and pee all over when they die, and you don't want contact with that. Secondly, if you accidentally get stuck to the trap while retrieving it, you can slip off a glove easily. If you're bare skin gets stuck (and these things are STICKY!) you will have a real mess do deal with.
1. You must know the path that the critters are taking. Just spend some time getting inside the head of your vermin - they have a nest somewhere and they travel back and forth to food and water sources. They will usually travel against walls and along the tops of roof joists. If you find holes in walls, you will often see a dirty smudge where their filthy little tails drag along behind them. You will also see droppings (they seem to poop constantly). Place these traps in the high traffic areas, arranging them so that they are butted against walls, and along the trails they follow (think of the way ants travel in a line - rats and mice kind of do the same thing).
2. Don't bother with bait - if you follow the instructions in #1 above you don't need bait. I have never baited these things and I have caught a LOT of rats (my wife feeds birds in our yard and the seed attracts rats).
3. Do NOT use these outside or anywhere your pets or children can come in contact with them. If you put them outside, you will inevitably end up with a bird stuck to it, and unless you are a cold-hearted killer, you will feel awful. When I have to use them outside (like along the pathways the rats use to visit the bird feeders) I cover them with a long pice of plywood propped against the wall to create a "tunnel" and try to make it much more difficult for anything other than a rat or mouse to get stuck. Also, curious house cats will OFTEN get stuck in these, especially if there is a mouse or rat thrashing around on it and squeaking. Let me tell you that it is NO fun trying to pull one of these off your cat's face while there is a live rat stuck to it (or a toddler's shoe!). Also not covering them, you'll end up with a lot of leaf litter on them, which hinders their effectiveness.
4. Don't use these if you can't handle the sight of a dead (or dying) rat or mouse. Be prepared to "dispatch" the animal humanely once they are trapped. These traps do not cause instant death (the way snap traps do). The animal will eventually die (often from suffocation or shock) but the most humane thing to do is to kill them once you hear the squeaking and thrashing around. Speaking of which, it is fairly common (especially for a larger rat) to become partially stuck on one of these traps. I had a big wood rat get his back end stuck on one in my attic one night, and he flipped out, thrashing around and dragging it all over the place until I was able to crawl up there and "take him out". Outside, I usually use a shovel to decapitate them quickly when they get stuck. In the attic, I will usually use a very sharp hunting knife or a pair of lopping shears to decapitate them. (Did I mention this is not for squeamish people?). On a side note, don't leave these in the attic too long without checking them. Trust me, if you wait until you smell something funny, you are going to have a very unpleasant situation to deal with.
5. Make sure you wear rubber/latex/nitrile gloves while disposing of these once you have a dead mouse/rat. The reason is twofold: first, they are filthy disease-ridden creatures and they tend to poop and pee all over when they die, and you don't want contact with that. Secondly, if you accidentally get stuck to the trap while retrieving it, you can slip off a glove easily. If you're bare skin gets stuck (and these things are STICKY!) you will have a real mess do deal with.
Effective
Sandrea Christopher✓ Verified Purchase•August 30, 2023
I've caught one mouse so far.
Title: Quick and Effective Solution to Pesky Problems
BG✓ Verified Purchase•August 24, 2023
I recently purchased Catchmaster Glue Mouse Traps from Amazon to deal with a persistent rodent issue in my home. After having tried a few other solutions with little success, I decided to give these glue traps a shot. The ordering and delivery process through Amazon was seamless as always. The traps arrived in good condition and were very easy to set up.
Within less than two weeks of placing these traps strategically around my home, I managed to catch the pesky little rascal that had been causing quite a nuisance. I was pleasantly surprised and relieved by the effectiveness of these traps. The glue is indeed very strong and managed to hold the mouse securely until I could deal with it.
The design of the traps is fairly straightforward and unassuming, which I appreciate. They blend in well enough with the surroundings, making them less of an eyesore compared to traditional snap traps. Plus, I appreciate that it's a non-lethal solution which allowed me to release the mouse back into the wild far from my home.
On the downside, I would say that the cleanup can be a bit messy if you are aiming to release the mouse, as the glue is very tenacious. Also, it might take some patience as it didn't catch the mouse on the first day, but with strategic placement, it did the job fairly quickly.
Overall, I would highly recommend the Catchmaster Glue Mouse Traps to anyone dealing with a rodent issue. They are an effective, humane, and affordable solution to a problem many homeowners face.
Within less than two weeks of placing these traps strategically around my home, I managed to catch the pesky little rascal that had been causing quite a nuisance. I was pleasantly surprised and relieved by the effectiveness of these traps. The glue is indeed very strong and managed to hold the mouse securely until I could deal with it.
The design of the traps is fairly straightforward and unassuming, which I appreciate. They blend in well enough with the surroundings, making them less of an eyesore compared to traditional snap traps. Plus, I appreciate that it's a non-lethal solution which allowed me to release the mouse back into the wild far from my home.
On the downside, I would say that the cleanup can be a bit messy if you are aiming to release the mouse, as the glue is very tenacious. Also, it might take some patience as it didn't catch the mouse on the first day, but with strategic placement, it did the job fairly quickly.
Overall, I would highly recommend the Catchmaster Glue Mouse Traps to anyone dealing with a rodent issue. They are an effective, humane, and affordable solution to a problem many homeowners face.
Does the job! Catches even the smartest rats!
venicebeach✓ Verified Purchase•August 24, 2023
These work great. I have a rat problem around my house (they then get into the engine of my car which can be super expensive!) so I need to get rid of them frequently. Unfortunately the rats by me are smart - and they don't even set off the wooden traps all the time - sometimes they can take the bait without getting caught! But these are impossible to get around. The rat touches this and they are stuck. Its gross though and doesn't instantly kill them, but I can't afford my car wires getting chewed and I can't use bait as that can lead to sick rats getting eatten by owls and then owls dying...there is no good solution, but this is best one I have found.
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