Love the look, My electrician, not so much. But they're up and the previous comments helped him. Modern with the log cabin is a great eclectic look

I hope that I can save others the two days of work and frustration I encountered when trying to get these lights to work properly with LED lamps. Bottom line - this is a great value for a fixture that looks identical to $700 cable light sets. But as part of that compromise, you get an adequate (read- cheap) transformer that is meant for halogen lamps ONLY and does not play well with LEDs at all.

Very short version of the story - I just finished spending THREE days to get 4 sets of these set up in the configuration I wanted, that is with LEDs and dimmable. I first tried the fixtures using the Sunthin 5w MR16 bulbs and experienced terrible flickering. OK - reading manufacturer's comments, transformer was designed for 50w minimum load. So I connected two sets of lights in parallel, giving 50w total load, and still flickering terribly. Also did not work at all with several dimmers tested (Lutron Diva, Caseta, and Maestro). Then, thinking maybe it was the bulbs, switched to the Jacky LED 4 watt MR16s. Same flickering. Then, after reading some people seemed to have luck with the 7.5w MR16s, I tried those. Still flickering - even when 2 sets powered in paralled by one transformer (total load over 70w).

Realizing this transformer was NEVER intended to work with any LEDs natively, I started considering other options. Not wanting to use halogens at all, I realized I needed to scrap the transformers and treat these 4 lights like two big sets of LED strip lights and power them from a separate transformer. Ripped out all 4 transformers from the cap, wired the 12v input directly to 2 sets of lights in parallel. Decided to get the best magetic LV LED transformers available - LEDWholesalers 60w units for each pair of lights.

My final setup:
120v into Magnetic LV dimmer (still testing - Lutron Diva causes transformers to cut out occasionally at full power, others not doing this). Output of MLV dimmer switches into the LEDWholesalers 60w transformers. 12v out of those runs to input of first set of cable lights. Output wire from this light runs to 2nd cable light wired in parallel. This setup has added over $300 to my total cost for these 4 sets of lights, but it has finally given me LED lighting from them that has no flicker and dims properly.

I see that a lot of people are buying these along together with the Sunthin or JackyLED lamps, presuambly thinking they work together properly out of the box. I am writing this to save you the time I wasted experimenting with these - they do NOT work with any MR16 LED lamps currently sold by Amazon and WILL flicker badly unless you relplace the cheap transformer included with a high-end dimmable transformer made especially for LED lamps. The end result I am very happy with, and the lights look great, but I wish it was made more clear that LED lamps do not work at all with this unit's included transformer.

I just put these up and the process was painless. I am very happy with them. Are the bulb fixtures a bit chintzy? Yeah, but 1 - no one will ever notice from even a few feet away, and 2 - to get high quality fixtures, you'd pay almost as much for one as you do for this entire set (literally, they're like $150 each).

I'm super happy with the quality. The only tricky bit is going LED (because anyone using halogens today is crazy... I tried one 20w halogen and it was like 25% the brightness of a 5w LED I had in another socket). As others have stated, the problem is that the transformer needs a certain amount of draw... even with all 5 sockets filled with 5w LEDs (which are wicked bright btw), the lights flickered slightly. Replacing one LED with a 20w halogen fixed the flicker, so it seems like it wants at least 45 watts of draw (ish, I didn't test all combinations).

However, my plan is to buy a few more of these sets and connect them together. If 5x 20w halogens on one transformer is fine, that means I can run 4 sets of these off one transformer, with 5x 5w LED bulbs in each. Which is actually kinda handy.

And all of this is WAY less expensive than having a professional do it, or using the higher end cable lighting systems.

Unless you really have money to throw away and really want the fancier looking fixtures, just get this (and actually, you can get one or two of the fancy fixtures that'll work on these cables just fine).

I bought two of these kits because I needed 10 lights. I swapped out the five 20W Halogen lights for ten 7W LED replacements. The 100 W transformer can easily handle the 70 total LED watts and the setup is dimmable. I was concerned that the 10 fixtures would make the cable sag. It does, but I found a sort of solution (below).

The installation of this cable light kit can be complicated. Some examples:

1) Allen wrenches - As others have said, there is a problem with the size (or sizes) of the Allen wrenches used to tighten or remove various set screws. The Instruction Manual shows two (2) small Allen wrenches included, while there are really three (3), each a different size. Make sure you have three, and use the right one. The smallest, for example, is needed to loosen and tighten the set screws to insert the light bulb posts.

2) Ceiling mount 1 - The Manual shows 3 possible installation options, two of which involve mounting the posts on the ceiling. But the post without the turnbuckle does not easily accommodate a ceiling mount, as the cable is inserted into the END of the post. Fortunately, the cable is soft and bends easily "“ just be sure to tighten the set screws securely (using the right Allen wrench!). Note that in this installation if the cables pass over the transformer cover, they come close to but don't touch it.

3) Ceiling mount 2 - I needed to mount both ends of the cable to posts on the ceiling. This was not difficult, as I did not hit any joists above the drywall. Unfortunately, the torque on the end of the posts when the cable was tightened by the turnbuckle caused the posts to lean inwards because the drywall anchors were not solid enough to take the strain. I had to back off the tightness a bit, and that's when the cable sagged a little.

4) Sagging cable "“ Fortunately I had two complete kits, giving me an extra set of the posts without the turnbuckle. After removing the lowest set screw, I drilled all the way through the post there. I mounted these posts in the middle of my cable, ran the cables through the new holes and the sag was significantly reduced.

5) Shortening the power cables "“ My installation took the cables right over the transformer cover and the foot-long power cables looked bad and needed to be shortened. Apparently, the manufacturer does not want to have the end connector removed from the power cable, as the Allen set screws seemed to have been "stripped". None of the provided Allen wrenches would turn the set screws. My McGuyver answer was a tiny Torx screwdriver that I could force into the set screw and get it to turn. After cutting and stripping each insulated cable, I was able to reinsert the end into the connector and retighten the set screws with the Torx. Looks much better.

6) Something I missed "“ The silver washers that are used in mounting the posts need to be put so the slight cutout faces the mounting surface. This little space accommodates the likely protrusion of the top of the drywall anchor screw, and results in a nice flat mounting.

I'm quite happy with the product and my handiwork. We can now illuminate a number of African carvings we have collected but never properly displayed. By installing a series of "floating" shelves along an unused wall down a hallway, we will have not only a nice art display but also lots of light.

I bought three of these kits to have three 17-feet long rows in our living room spaced 6 feet apart. These lights are awesome for the money. They give off a nice glow, not too bright unless you're looking directly at one, which is typical of most bulbs anyway. Anchoring is not a problem if you don't tighten the anchors too much. Just screw them tight. There will be a protruding lip on the anchor, but the washer is cut to fit over the anchor lip and lie flush on the wall. Another reviewer made the mistake of trying to countersink the anchor. Don't do that. Also, measure, measure, and measure some more before you go drilling. In some spots I could skip the anchors and screw right into wood studs. Just use a small drill bit (smaller than the threads on the screws) to check for studs. If no stud, use an anchor. When putting it all together, take your time and make sure all your hardware screws finish up pointing in the same directions (for looks). And don't over tighten the cables; just tighten until there's no sag in them. Hanging these lights requires a well thought out process before you get started. After you get the parts and instructions out and think about it, think about it, and think some more...then measure, measure, and measure until you're certain of the placement. If you're the kind of person that thinks 1/8th of an inch doesn't matter, have someone else do it for you. These lights are artistically symmetrical, so things need to be pretty exact for it to look right.

All in all, we are VERY happy with this purchase. We like to be different in our home interior design. These lights allow my artist wife to accentuate different areas (and art) in the room by simply swiveling the light heads.