July 2022 Update: Purchased a second one of these for a different system. It arrived defective with poor soldering and broken off capacitors, one loose in the box. I returned it for a replacement. The replacement works, and it appears the new version for 2023 operates the SD and microSD slots independently of each other, with each getting a drive letter. The reader I bought a year ago combines them as one drive letter.The original showed up in Device Manager as an APPLE SD Card Reader USB Device, with one drive letter assigned to a shared SD slot and Micro-SD slot. The new one shows up as a Generic MassStorageClass USB Device. The new revision still has the flaw in the SATA connector. Don't use it. On a positive note, you now have a "free" SATA power Y-adapter for other uses.

Original review below.

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This is a convenient product which provides front panel USB 3 ports, a type C port, as well as an SD card reader. This product however has a serious design flaw which could cause damage to your computer or its power supply if you use the SATA power connection. Many modern computers power the USB ports off the power supply's +5VSB rail when in standby/sleep/off state. This product has the 5V supply from the internal USB connection and the 5V supply from the SATA power connection tied together. As a result, the +5V rail and +5VSB rail are tied together. The PSU's +5VSB rail (purple wire on ATX connector) is typically designed to supply around 2A tops when, versus 15-30A on the +5V rail (red wires on ATX connector). When the computer is in soft-off (powered off, but plugged in), and if the motherboard feeds power to the USB ports from +5VSB when in a standby state, this product will backfeed the 5V rail from the 5VSB rail, potentially overloading the +5VSB rail due to it powering every 5V component in the system, and potentially causing damage to the product itself, the motherboard, or the power supply. Theoretically, the motherboard and power supply +5VSB connections should have overcurrent protections, but this is not always the case.

A simple solution for this problem would have been for the manufacturer to not use the 5V supply from the USB connection, and instead use the SATA 5V power, or offered an onboard switch to disconnect the USB power when using the SATA power connection.

Yes, I did disable USB sleep power in my motherboard's BIOS, however this still did not alleviate the issue. If your motherboard happens to be one which has an onboard jumper to switch USB power from +5VSB to +5V, then this product would work okay for you.

This is the only all-USB 3 internal drive for PCs that I can find. I just installed it, plugged in an SD card and immediately got about 60 MBps data transfer rate. I didn't know that an SD card could go that fast!
All of the other units that I've seen have the SD card interfaces running through the USB 2 connection, but this unit only has a USB-3 and a power connector; that's it. No stupid USB 2.
I hope this lasts as well as it works.

Overall a pretty good SD Card reader. I know people have complained about the USB 3 ports not being able to sufficiently power external drives but I mostly got it for the card readers. My case has front ports already, but no one seems to be making HTPC cases with an SD slot in the style I prefer.

I also needed it to fit in a 3.5" bay; the 5.25" bay was occupied with my media drive. My (InWin) case is a little different in that there is a 3.5" bay for "card readers" which is shorter due to the case fan taking some of that space. I don't know if this is going to be similar for many people, but do make sure you have an unfettered 3.5" bay because the 20pin to USB3 cable is very stiff. Even shortening the frame and removing some of the middle, the USB cable still made it too long for what I had. A USB 90° adapter *will not* work. I had to make a rather severe bend in the cable, zip tie it to itself. and route cable through the opening I cut for it to fit. However, that is my fault, not ByEasy's. I suspect it might fail sooner than later.

If in the future they make a revision I would request having an opening in the middle of the frame to pass through cords and cables if needed, and also having a 20pin connection at the back of the circuit board placed over that opening instead of a USB port; at least then an easily sourced 90° could be sourced for dummies like me who can't operate a ruler.

The frame though is very sturdy so cutting those bits away didn't weaken it at all. And the circuit board was easy to remove and put on for these modifications.

Speaking of modifications, I do have to bring up one definite negative. I don't know why it makes me irrationally sad, but it does. Despite all the photos showing no logo on the face, and people asking and answered there is no logo on the face... there is a logo on the face, printed instead of a decal. So: light sanding and two coats of matte black spray paint corrected this. Since this also covered the descriptors of each connection, I used a wide-tipped oil paint pen in a light color and traced the edges of each one on the faceplate.

I had a Kingwin 5.25" multimedia bay fail after a few years (one of the 3 USB 3.0 ports was erratic brand new) and needed a replacement. Easy enough to install in a 2.5" drive bay. Fewer options than the Kingwin that it replaced, but everything seems to work fine so far. I need to test the USB-C port still.

Worked perfectly. I can recommend this.