This provides a nice gloss finish, easy to use and easy to clean up. There are problems if you want to use it on cutting boards or something where a knife may penetrate the surface. That is why they changed the can and called it "bowl finish" . I have used this product quite a bit for building food contact items but I don't use on heavily used cutting boards. I have also had problems with this when I don't use it within a short time. I have sealed it up in the can and come back to use it only to find a "rind" on the top. Even when you remove the rind on top the rest of it has thickened up to where it is almost unusable. I have tried using paint thinner to get it to come back to where it was originally but it's never the same. With the price of this stuff, you need to be able to use all of the can!!

I've been looking for a good finish to use on food products that won't be cut on (plates, bowls, etc.) and this finish is amazing. It's quite liquidy but it applies easily enough. I didn't know this beforehand but this finish is actually a film finish and builds a decent protective layer in only a few coats.
These sushi plates I made have 4 coats on them and they look and feel great. The finish is super smooth. I recommend applying the finish with a sponge brush. I used a rag for the first 2 coats but the outcome was sub-optimal. But after applying with a sponge brush, the subsequent coats were very clean, smooth, and flat.
I wouldn't recommend using this on anything that will come in contact with metal (dinner plates, cutting boards, etc.) but rather only project that will be used to serve food or come in contact with wooden utensils. Metal would just tear up the finish and ruin it.

Good stuff works great when I was making cutting boards

My new go to wood finish product. Looks great and is easy to use. Follow the directions and you will agree that it's one of the bet wood finishes on the market.

This is a great finish. There was a bit of a learning curve for me however. Not that the piece didn't turn out ok but it required more coats than were necessary. I have learned to spend extra time with the first coat. Keep wiping it on when you see it has absorbed into the wood, primarily end grain. I just keep wiping more on until it stays wet evenly, then do a final wipe to even it out. Leave extra time for the first coat to dry, I do both sides the first time. I sand with 400 between coats and alternate sides, every 3 or 4 hours seems to work of me. If I see a spot that still soaks in I just apply more until all is wet then do a final wipe to even out just like with the first coat. Last coat gets 0000 steel wool instead of sanding. The more you put on the glossier it gets. Last coat is just a thin wipe.

I am experimenting with using this as a sealer coat before using oil or wax. The second picture shows a comparison of 2 ELM bowls with 5 coats of SBQT on one ant the other with one coat SBQT/sanded with 400/and wax. The sanding removes all finish on the surface. Using Mahoney's wax. Really like this result. I Think this is a great solution for an open grain wood where you do not want a gloss finish but also do not want just Walnut Oil and wax.

This is a very versatile and easy to apply finish that gives great results.