OK...so there is much to like about this thing and a few things that are puzzlements. .First, the good. It is installed and works wonderfully in our newly renovated tiny little master bath. The installation process is pretty straight forward, once you have the floor appropriately prepped. The first challenge is figuring out how to trim the fiberglass mat to allow it to fold, flip, and turn to cover the area you want heated, while leaving the lead wires at the best spot for feeding to your thermostat, but as noted by other reviewers, a little creative patterning will work it out. The next problem is when you skim-coat the same mat in preparation for the actual tiling, you have to understand that you are essentially going to be tiling an uneven floor because even if you mix the mortar extra runny, you will end up with two different heights. I addressed this with either normally buttered tile in the heated areas or I buttered the crap out of the tiles being laid on the unheated areas which were below the height of the skim-coated sections. Used a 2 x 4 with a three foot level to verify consistent floor/tile height and yeah, I did have to pull up a tile from time to time and slather on a bunch more mortar but this was not my first tiling job so I was not too concerned with the practical issues...Ended up looking great and worked fine. My biggest gripe is the thermostat. The instructions encourage you to place the t-stat outside the bathroom, which makes sense but I suspect that unless you are involved in totally new construction, rather then renovation of a single bath, the t-stat design will make you crazy because it is big enough to require a 4 x 4 Jbox but a single center decora plate. Ever try to find what is essentially a double gang plate with a single centered decora opening? Don't spend much time looking because you never will. You can find new work solutions but if, like me, you want to put the t-stat outside a renovated bathroom without getting into drywall repair, paint etc on the other side of the wall, then that's a problem. I finally found Kyle Switch Plates on the interweb, bought one that came close, then Dremeled out a large enough opening for the decora guts of the t-stat to fit. Looks kinda funky, as you can see, but all in all, I am happy with it. Warming Systems really should offer the exact solution...and btw, they might....I never bothered calling them! But even in spring, the heated floor is delightful and I will never live in a house without this feature again.

I looked at a lot of floor heating systems and this was the best value by far. I installed the whole thing myself and I'm not an experienced electrician or remodeler. I laid it on cement board and then poured self-leveling floor compound to protect the wire before I laid tile. Couple of hints...when laying down the mat, especially if you've had to cut it to place the wire in an odd shaped room, then hot glue or staple the mat (ONLY the mat, not the wire!!) to the floor. Otherwise the mat wants to float up in the flooring compound. Use a deep electrical box for the thermostat, you'll need the room. Or, if installing in new construction, use the type of box that has more space to the side, eventually covered by drywall, with a snap-off cover, for your wiring because backside of the thermostat along with the wiring takes up quite a bit of room. The temperature sensor wire doesn't run into the box with the rest of the wiring (it was my first time installing a thermostat so I didn't realize that til I got to that page of the directions, lol, so I had to remove the box from the wall and pull out the temp sensor wire.) I buried the cold lead in mortar till it reaches the conduit in the wall, then it runs in conduit up to the box. You'll also need a 20 amp circuit with a GFCI breaker. I tested it last night to make sure it's working, before I begin laying tile, and it's working fine. Very pleased!

I love being able to program the flooring to turn one before we get in the shower and have warm feet. The panel is a little confusing to use and program but once you figure it out it works very nice. Easy to install.

I cannot yet comment on the actual unit because it hasn't been installed yet. Probably tomorrow or early next week. Our bathroom is freezing and never comfortable. What I can comment on is my purchasing and shipping experience. I had somewhat of a difficulty navigating the website because I didn't know exactly what to call a unit that heats a floor from underneath the actual tile
I found it once and it took my 2 two days to fond it again. Once ordered the unit did arrive in a timely manner and is undamaged, so once our new bathroom is finished I will definitely let everyone know how it worked out. The units range from $140 to $3,000. I paid$200. I hope it works out.

Summary: I purchased this for a bathroom remodel, installation went smoothly, and I'm very happy with the result. My wife's cold toes are even happier with it!

More detail: This is the first time I've installed a heat mat of any sort, and in fact the first time I've tiled a whole room on my own. Despite my beginner status, the whole process went smoothly. I did all the wiring first (power to the heat mat, thermostat control to sensor), then installed cement backer board. I put this heat mat directly on the backer board, using plenty of staples on the mesh part (not over wires) to hold it in place. (If you have an air compressor, I highly recommend a Surebonder 9600A, Heavy Duty Staple Gun with Case any time you do a lot of stapling. Much faster and less tiring.) You have to know the exact size and location of all your bathroom fixtures at this point, so the mat doesn't extend underneath anything permanent. Don't forget to place the thermostat sensor on the floor between wires at this stage also. I cut a little gouge in the backer board, so the end of the thermostat sensor wouldn't stick up so far. After I got all the tiles cut, I put thinset over the top of the mat. This is a little tricky, because you want a thin layer of thinset on top of the mat itself, being careful not to gouge the heat wires with your trowel, and then you want a thicker layer outside the heat mat, so the tile ends up level. Just be aware of it, and make sure you have plenty of thinset on hand. I didn't have any problems using a metal trowel over the heat mat; just be gentle and don't scrape through the wire. It's also tricky to apply thinset & place tiles after the heat mat is in place, because you need to be very gentle walking/kneeling on the heat mat. Then finish tiling as you normally would.
I have not used this through a whole winter yet, but we've had several chilly fall days and it has worked wonderfully. As with most complex timer thermostats, he thermostat programming is not especially intuitive, so keep the instruction manual handy. But the instructions are clear, and once you get it set up it works well with the various automatic / timer modes.
Overall, I have no complaints about this product, and it was the best deal I could find if you also intend to buy an auto/timer thermostat.