We just finished tiling the bathroom. We had 2ft/1ft tiles so we had to build up our mortar high, but it wasn't too big a deal. The electrical work is trivial. The people complaining here probably just don't do electrical work often. No different than wiring an outlet. The GFCI input is just normal 120VAC or 240VAC, and the output to the heating element is unpolarized, so it doesn't even matter how its hooked up. Same with the sensor, you just slap it where it tells you to in the instructions. The directions are crystal clear for anyone that knows what they're doing, they do not use a crazy amount of jargon, and amazing pictures, along with how to test it with an ohm meter. It's 12W / sqft, so the unit i bought will use 3 amps. They recommend a dedicated circuit, which isn't hard to install itself either. I just bumped my outlet up to a 20amp circuit and hooked it into that preexisting one.

I'll probably get the same system again when i finish my in law suite. This was an excellent addition for my upstairs bathroom remodel.

Installation was easy. I poured self-leveler over it for a basement bathroom. If that is your plan as well, I would STRONGLY suggest that you buy a hot glue gun and glue down each and every point where the wire turns. I'd also just glue down the mesh everywhere. I only glued down parts that were lifting and I ended up with a lot of coils becoming buoyant and lifting out of the cement before it dried. I had to chip the cement down in certain places to get the coils down.

Warmth is ok. It takes a long time to warm up cement. Found it took about 12 hours to get up to a reasonable temperature. Probably not so long if just covered in mortar and tile. We'll be setting it and leaving it on because of the time it takes.

Thickness was fine, in places where the coils didn't lift it wasn't an issue.

I mis-measured (I know, I know) and got 70 sq/ft when I should have gotten 100. I called Heatizon and they were extremely helpful to let me know I can get a 30 sq/ft mat to add to the same thermostat - and problem solved. Can't wait to try it out!

I'm super happy with the product! Really simple to install, even has double sided tape if you choose to use it to stick it to the floor prior to the tile installation. My recommendations however based on my experience:
- Use a bit more mud when applying the tile. We had a few cases where the mat interfered with good adherence. Just go a bit heavier.
- plan out the room prior to laying the tile. We started laying out the room as we began tiling, we cam up like 2.5 feet short which was a bit frustrating. So follow the instructions better than I did and lay the entire thing out prior.
- plan for your wires going to the thermostat before installation. I already had the tile in and was required to cut into the drywall to hide the thermostat wire and electric cable behind the baseboard.

Other than that, I really like it, heats up pretty fast and gets the space nice and warm.

I personally installed this in my master bath. These are the first heated floors in any home I have lived in and for a tile floor on a slab foundation, these make a world of difference in comfort and actually feeling relaxed at the end of a day. See my recommendations below for install and other tips, thumbs up if you found this useful!

Pros:
Layout is straightforward, cable is pretty sturdy, backer mat helps it lay flat, controller is pretty smart

Cons:
Fixed size (the back 1.5 feet of my shower does not have heated floors), determining the SF you need is not just multiplying length x width (see recommendations).

Recommendations:
1) Per the product documentation: these are not rated for wet use (aka in your shower) Per the manufacturer tech support: These are safe to install in a shower as long as the secondary water barrier (your shower pan) is above the wiring. What that means is that you have to lay the heating mat, cover it with a mortar bed (or thinset like I did), then place a shower pan (or approved liquid shower pan that you can paint on like I did) and then you proceed tiling your shower like normal. Obviously keeping them as close to the top gives best performance, so minimizing the thickness of layers above the wiring will improve your happiness with the end product.
2) The control algorithm turns on the heated floor early so that at your set time that you want the temperature you want, it already is there. Depending on your install it can take 30 minutes to 2 hours to reach temperature. I use 85 degrees and it is the perfect amount of warmth and even in a hot shower my feet never feel like I am stepping on cold tile.
3) Sizing. If you just do length x width, you will come up short since most all bathrooms you are working around obstacles. I had mine going into a water closet and the sections I cut to get the mat back out of the room and into the shower resulted in me being 6 SF short of completing the shower and making it to my 90 SF length x width number. Now you certainly don't want a ton extra, but be aware that if you plan on going in and out of a closet or shower stall or water closet, that will eat up some SF.
4) Wiring. have your plumber or electrician run some conduit before drywall from behind the baseboard to the electrical box for the controller. This will make your life so much easier when trying to fish the wire from the floor up to the box when you install the heated mat most likely long after drywall is completed.