this has a design flaw. to work properly it has to be off of the ground. The fix is to drill air holes on side of fire basket. Or, make sure it is elevated off the ground to allow air to feed fire in basket.

THIS STOVE. YOU NEED IT.
Don't think so hard. All that BS with the BioLite and Solo stove is not worth your time, you need a simple reliable and well-crafted tool. This stove leaves nothing to be desired, it is a pinnacle of design. A proper fire in here will get water boiling within 10 minutes, add sticks through the feed hole or just lift the pot off for a second and get some bigger wood in there. Not top-heavy or flimsy like some might say. Mine is solid and amazingly durable. I don't throw it around and dent it up, of course, but this titanium, while being the lightest I've ever felt, is mind-blowing in it's ability to stand up to flames and temperature shifts. I can have it cooking for a long time, empty it out and roll it in snow and it's totally fine and cool to the touch, ready to pack up again. It burns very efficiently but it's still possible to get coals built up, you just need to know how to actually build a fire ;) also it helps to bring a rag for cleaning the stove and pot after burning, it does tend to create soot stains and if you burn certain bark expect to have sticky residue on the pot. Stove comes with great mesh sack, keeps things around it clean if you're in a hurry and can't wipe it down.
I would buy again, but don't expect I'll need to. This seems like a lifetime product. I am so lucky to own one, I am looking forward to buying a Toaks camp pot (1600ml with frying pan lid) that this fits nicely inside of. THANK YOU TOAKS!

I wanted a cook stove that was not gas, but one that was fueled strictly off of what you could found on the ground for fuel and this stove did not disappoint. from cooking eggs to boiling water and making pasta the stove worked perfectly. Now, this is a fairly small stove and so it burns through the fuel source fairly quickly so it has to be monitored and fed frequently to maintain a fairly consistent heat. The only real learning curve with the stove was discovering that when cooking for longer periods of time which require more and more fuel, that you have to periodically remove the cooking container and move ashes around to get them to drop though the holes in the bottom of the stove so the holes stay clear so the fire can breath properly. If you don't, the stove will not flame up or get hot. Other than that, this stove is very straight forward and simple. I also bought the 1100 ml cooking pot and frying pan. The previous reviews were right and the stove fits perfectly into the pot for convenient and compact storage. The frying pan lid for the cook pot is small but under camping conditions works surprisingly well. The cook pot surprisingly holds quite a bit. I made pasta in it and it was more food than the two of us could eat in one sitting. I was able to bring a full pot of water to a rolling boil in under 5 minutes. The recommendation that I have other than purchasing the 1100ml pot/frying pan lid, is to get the titanium crossbar support that fits on top of the cook stove. It allows for the heating/cooking of smaller containers and cans that have a smaller circumference then the cook stove opening. You cannot get them from amazon and have to go to there website "Toaks.com" and under accessories it is the Wood Stove Cross Bars $2.95 + shipping. Why this is not included with the cook stove is beyond me.

Having buikt many of these by hand out of everything from soup cans to paint cans. I can tell you this is a solid design. Wood gassifiers in gerlneral are the best trail stove to have. They rrquire minimal fuel, have minimal impact, and don't smoke you out due to their efficiency. To have one made up to print out of TI is great. Toaks does not disappoint.

UPDATE (5/30/18): I have FINALLY figured out best way to light the kindling! First cram a lot of twigs to fill the stove. The more the better but with lots of 1/16" diameter stuff mixed in. Then light a match and insert into one of the side holes and TIP the stove so the flame rises into the pack of twigs. A good wood match should last long enough and reach far enough to allow the twigs to catch. This is FAR better technique than any I've tried before using paper, Vaseline impregnated cotton balls, dried grass/vegetation ... anything. Works almost invariably with one match.

Also, I no longer use clips to raise pot above metal rim. I'm just more patient to allow flame to get going first before putting pan/pot atop stove and thus blocking air flow.

Further, I made a "platform" to raise base of stove 2". This platform is made out of perforated sheet of steel with 2 legs consisting of 2" bolts (very small diameter).

UPDATED: (10/6/16)
I just did three 6-7-day Sierra Nevada trips with only the Toaks, as modified. [I even made fires above 10,000 feet by loading up wood from low elevation so as not to violate the ethical consideration of the usual 10,000 foot limit - dry wood in the small quantities needed for a pot or two of boiling water is VERY light!]. It sure is a lot of fun. BUT, something few people seem to acknowledge, it makes really filthy pots and pans. I have dealt with this for decades using small cooking fires (no stove). So that is not a shock. But I just don't see any mention of this serious overhead with, I think, any wood stove. A surprise on my last trip is how sooty the below-mentioned clips get. One touch and your fingers/gloves are black! I wipe with small squares of papertowels before putting everything away.

All this talk about "gassification" and the clean-burning implied is crap. The design IS very clever, but wood-burning will still get you and gear dirty. I'm happy to prepare for that. But let's be real, here.

Also, I really, really need to make a base stabilizer because I found that I frequently jiggled the top-heavy stove when inserting new sticks. I've not toppled it yet, but it is SO damn top heavy and certainly will tip over some day.

UPDATED (9/5/16):
I find my Toaks burns VERY smokey if I don't have at least 1/4" gap between the pot and the top of the Toaks. I have added this gap using 3 tiny office paper clips which I have wired together to stay open w/o opening fully. Use the smallest ones you can find but be sure to tie the tops together with some thin wire so the clips don't splay open, thus losing you your gap. See photo below.

ESSENTIAL: you absolutely need leather gloves to use such a wood stove or to use fire generally. For one thing, the clips i mention above get extremely sooty as do pots and pans. That's not to mention needing to handle very hot stove components and pots and such at times.

UPDATED REVIEW (3/30/16):
I have added a 1/4" aluminum rod atop which the innermost cylinder sits. It slides through opposing holes drilled into the bottom outer cylinder and is removable for proper stowing of all parts.That rod elevates the bottom inner cylinder 2" above the ground so when the flames die down the pot bottom is no longer 8" way away from the heat source. As a result, I had to drill out a bunch of holes to maintain the air flow as designed. I also added 3 clips (tiny office supply clips to grip papers) to add a gap between pot bottom and the top of the stove so flame pours out under the pot and smoke is minimal. AS IS, the stove tends to smoke more than I like.

As I have modified the stove, I think it works MUCH better. I now like it a lot. It is not ridiculously deep as originally designed but still has tons of capacity for fuel much in excess of the Solo stove I first used, which would require constant feeding of ridiculously small pieces of wood. Now with the modified Toaks, I can feed in some serious sticks that will keep a nice flame going for 5 minutes or so w/o minding the fuel feed though I usually have a few sticks poked into the feed slot all the while.

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ORIGINAL REVIEW:
I've used a couple other stoves and looked at reviews of almost everything that is out there. I used the Solo last year and felt it had way too small a fuel capacity to be practical. I modified it by taking out the wire sieve thing and bending the three tabs up - thus allowing for sticks about 5" long. Even so, though I liked it, it required constant feeding of tiny bits of wood (cones did not work well at all!).

So I tried this Toaks stove. It takes MUCH larger pieces of wood but it is much more wasteful of fuel than the Solo and almost as wasteful of fuel as a small cooking fire would be (I've cooked on tiny fires for over 40 years). And once it gets burning, most of the flame flares out of the abundant holes at the top, not contributing enough to heating of pots, especially small pots. Also, if one fails to keep feeding it, the fire burns down too quickly, albeit not nearly as fast as with the Solo. Then the fire is a long way (5-7 inch gap) from the bottom of pots. So this stove solves the too-small fuel problem of the Solo but then suffers from the too-distant pot problem.

I am going to make an adapter that will shut off most of the uppermost vents so once the stove gets going, much more of the flame will be applied to pots instead of just being wasted.

I think this stove is maybe 2 inches too tall. The distance from average flame source to bottom of pot is about 8 inches. Too wasteful. I'd be better off, perhaps, just going back to my rock-ring small cooking fires. They are comparably efficient.

But I have hopes for this stove. It is barely small enough to fit inside my outside pack pocket and has capacity inside for storing matches and Vaseline-impregnated cotton balls and such.