Once I followed the directions exactly, it works great! The only difference I suggest is that you put a rod otlr an object under the glass where you will make the cut/break, that is as long or longer than the section of the glass you plan to break, otherwise, the break may wonder off. I had a 3ft wide mirror and only use the tool under the first section of the break and the break went straight half way and then went off path. I tried again but use the long handle of a broom under the width of the mirror and it worked perfectly. Another tip, if your glass/mirror has a beveled edge, don't push too hard/excessively. Once I understood how the product worked/gained a little experience, it worked great everytime!

Easy to switch cutting wheels for various thickness. Oil in handle took a bit to get started the first time, but very helpful after that.

I am new to glass cutting. Took me sometime to learn the proper pressure to apply. I haven't used it with oil yet, im just cutting straight lines for now as I practice. Haven't tried cutting many curves but it does flow easy. I learned that while cutting the glass you want the cutting sound to sound like "sizzling bacon".

But this glass cutter for my wife. She's used it several times with no issues and no broken bottles. Seems to do a good job.

I've had this thing for a while and I've gotten pretty good at using it, so I'd say I'm pretty happy with the product. It works well, it had held up for a while so far, and it's pretty fun to cut bottles.

I was getting pretty uneven cuts at first and it seemed like I was always breaking bottles or cracking little notches out of the sides, and the biggest thing that helped me was to not put so much pressure on when doing the cutting. It's a little misleading because you're "cutting" with a "blade" and it's easy to imagine that the scoring phase is doing the heavy-lifting in the cutting process but it isn't. The cold and hot water are doing 90% of the work, the blade really is just for telling the water what to break and how, you don't need much pressure at all.

It seems like higher scoring pressure just stresses the glass out and increases the risk of cracking, but light pressure gives a nice, even line. Then 3-4 cycles of very hot water and very cold water do most of the work of breaking the glass in a crisp clean line via magic.

My biggest struggle now is getting the (very sharp!) edges smooth. The method of wet sandpaper on a flat surface works, but it takes FOREVER and my arm wears out before the glass does. I've been using a Dremel with a little grinding wheel and that works pretty well, but I'm not sure I feel comfortable enough to drink out of them, because they're still pretty rough. I think I need a second stage of fine sandpaper after the grinding bit. I'll report back if that ends up working and not taking forever.

I also found out that drilling holes in the thick bottoms of an old liquor bottle is really, really hard if you're not using the right drill bit. I was using a diamond bit which I figured would be perfect, but it was dull and wasn't getting it done. The kit actually includes a little hole-saw style bit with a grinding edge that you can fit into any drill, and that worked way better than my dull-ass normal bit.