This seems like a great idea but the execution is poor.

From my years of automotive detailing, we learn that direct drive polishing/scrubbing with a drill or polisher is very dangerous and not as effective as an orbital. The same concept applies to this drill accessory kit. You might think that a scrub pad spinning at such high speed is going to make quick work of soap scum or dirt but in reality it's not doing as much as you think. I used this setup a few times and it moves too fast to really be effective. You will probably get your bathroom cleaner using the "wax on wax off" technique with your hands. All this accessory kit did was splatter the Comet everywhere and shred the cleaning pad. The pads are not even of great quality. After a few minutes of use, I was getting little bits of blue sponge scattered everywhere because the motion of the drill was chewing up the sponges. This could be a better product if the pads were of much better quality but that would make the product much more expensive.

It's too much of a hassle for me to use so I just put them away into a dark corner of my closet. Seriously, is your bathroom that dirty that you need something like this? I don't think I clean my bathroom as much as I should and I don't think you would find it dirty to begin with. Most bathrooms are small rooms so just get out a scrubbing pad, some Comet, and some Clorox wipes and you'll get your bathroom just as clean and with more control than a product like this drill brush can give you.

For this product to hit the mark, it would need to be used with an orbital, the pads would need to be of better quality, and the pads would need to be larger.

Most people will not need something like this for everyday cleaning or even bathrooms that would be considered dirty.

Reduces time and effort vs. hand-scrubbing, but still requires an effective cleaning product, and the weight of the drill can wear on your hand, wrist, arm, and even shoulder after a while, especially if cleaning vertical surfaces, and/or using a large drill. The pads can also gum up and wear down relatively fast if there is a lot of deposits. Some Tips and Observations:

PADS: There's no difference between the blue and white pads other than the color. You shouldn't have to apply a lot of pressure for the pads to work. Excessive pressure will wear down the pads (and your arm) relatively quickly, can overheat the drill, and could scuff or scratch the surface, depending upon the surface and cleanser used. I had no issues using the pads on a glass shower door, glazed ceramic tiled walls, and plastic basin. If the pad gums up, flip the pad and use the other side. If they are otherwise still in good condition afterward, throw them in the wash with your rags and/or rugs. Air dry.

DRILL: 18-20-volt drills/drivers work well, but their size and weight can be cumbersome and can wear out your arm and wrist fairly quickly, especially if using on vertical surfaces. Consider a compact 18-volt drill, or even better a 12-volt drill (see photos). The smaller size and weight makes them easier to manipulate and handle, and most of today's 12-volt models produce the torque and power the larger drills did just a few years ago. I find using at higher speeds works best. Have at least one extra fully-charged battery on hand.

BIT EXTENSION: Because the pad holder attaches right at the end of the drill, you have to work relatively close to the surface you're cleaning. Some spattering occurs (although less than most brush-type attachments). To reduce spattering on yourself and drill, consider a bit extension. The pad holder will fit into standard bit extensions, which typically range from 2 to 12 inches in length (see photos for examples). It can also help to reduce bending, and aid in getting at hard-to-reach areas.

CLEANING PRODUCTS: You may want to try a relatively safe cleanser first, e.g., Scrubbing Bubbles, etc. If that doesn't work, or there are significant hard water deposits (lime scale), you will likely need an acid (low pH) due to the base (high pH) properties of lime scale. Vinegar breaks up and dissolves the scale. Consider a solution of 95% vinegar (a mild acid), and 5% dishwashing liquid (surfactant). This is effective for lime scale/soap scum/body oils, and is less likely to damage surfaces, skin, eyes, or lungs vs. harsh cleansers.

Avoid harsh cleansers, e.g., KRC-7 Ultra and other products that contain sulfamic, sulfuric, phosphoric, and/or glycolic acids. They can damage surfaces including glazed tiles, metals, etc., your drill, as well as damage or severely irritate your skin, eyes, and respiratory system (especially in small rooms/confined areas). Also, chlorine bleach has little effect on hard water deposits.

Avoid home-made concoctions that call for both vinegar (an acid) and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), which is a base. An acid and a base simply neutralize each other. The resulting reactive byproducts from this concoction are water, carbon dioxide gas, and sodium acetate, which has no significant cleaning properties. Also, baking soda itself has no appreciable effect on hard water deposits, because both have base (high pH) properties.

Spray/soak the surface with cleaning product and let it soak awhile (note: unless you're using a harsh cleaning product, which could damage the surface if allowed to sit). You may also want to add more product just prior to using the pads. Rinse the surface immediately afterward. Repeat the process if necessary.

Regardless of what you use, consider eye/face protection along with non-porous gloves (e.g., nitrile), and long sleeves. Also consider an appropriate respirator. (I use a MSA half-face respirator with acid gas cartridges when using vinegar.) As a minimum, turn on the exhaust fan and/or open the window(s) if available.

I love this more than I should. I have a clean-enough shower that has limited soap scum and tons of watermarks from my hard water. The soap scum came off tile without argument. The hard water put up more of a fight on the tile. I believe that if I keep this part of my routine I will eventually triumph.

I also used this gently sparingly on marble for soap scum and it was great.

I used this (not gently) on chrome fixtures and they are gleaming, free of hard water and soap scum.

I used this on the tile floor to remove some acrylic paint as well as some caulk that got out of hand awhile back. Beautiful.

I purchased this to use in removing water spots from my outside windows. Doing it by hand was KILLING me! I used it with a product called "Driven". It is the perfect companion. I cannot believe how EASY it was compared to doing it by hand. Highly recommend this tool. You don't have to push. The hardest thing you do is hold the drill and let it do all the work. I have since done two shower doors, with EASE, I might add, and they are sparkling. Look like brand new! One had the look of being "frosted" it was so covered with water spots! Each door took only about 20 minutes to complete. I did another door with a product called A-MAZ, which is also good, but I did it by hand. It took me over an hour!! The RotoScrub is THE BEST! Don't settle for anything else!

Used for about 2 minutes and then it literally fell apart while cleaning shower walls.