8/12/16 Update 9 month old light: I've upgraded my tank from a 6g to a 20g Innovative Marine nano and using the same light. All my corals seem pretty happy and continues to thrive at a consistent rate, except for the candy coral that is just sustaining. I've placed my flowerpot and Duncans near the top and their growth have been pretty good. Third attached picture shows the flowerpot and you can see the new growth at the bottom where the exoskeleton is white. The growth of my corals have been slow but steady which I am happy with given the potential turf wars if the growth rate is any faster. I definitely recommend this light to the leisure hobbyist who is just beginning to dip their toes into saltwater tanks.

----------original review below-------------------

I got this light for my 6 gal Fluval Edge reef tank. I have mainly polyps, mushrooms, and soft corals. I do have a candy cane and a hammer. I admit, I had mixed feelings about either getting this model or the pro model for double the price. After lots of research and even consulting my local LFS, I went ahead with the purchase. I figure since my tank is barely 8 inches deep, I should have more than enough light. Might be borderline or not enough for the candy cane but I will update this review in a month with progress.

11/3/15 - Initial impressions
Pros: Easy, intuitive setup. Came with an extra remote battery too. Visually very appealing, it's slim and light and rests right on top of the glass as I had planned. The light it admit into the aquarium was stunning and everything immediately popped.

Cons: (nothing yet, will update in a week or two)

1/29/16 (update): Still enjoying this light but here are more things to consider:

Pros
1) Does not heat up and mess with your tank temperatures.
2) Simple to use if you don't are not messing with custom programs.
3) Program times are accurate (keep my fingers crossed on this since I've read mixed reviews about this.

Cons:
1) Light is too week for hard corals and anemones. I am tempted to add a Kessil but squirming at the price.
* Hammer coral head missing was not because of the light. I was away on vaca for a week and found the rock knocked over with the head buried in the sand. It didn't recover from the fall.
2) Thunderstorm setting reminds me of strobe lights and gives me a headache so it's useless to me.
3) Light doesn't span and only targets directly underneath for those who may have tank with longer depth.

Second picture was taken recently so you guys can compare.

I have a 20 long nano reef tank that I have been using 4 bulb 24" T5 lighting with for the past 3 years. I was shopping for replacement bulbs and the price would have been around $95 shipped. I had been looking at LED for the past few months and decided to go with this fixture instead of dropping $100 on T5 bulbs every year.

I purchased the 24"-36" model an it fits my 20 long tank just fine. It has 23 watts so that satisfies the rule of thumb of 1 watt per gallon for corals. I have some softies, LPS and two RBTAs. I have the fixture sitting right on top of the tank frame and it is very small and sleek compared to the much larger T5 fixture. So far all of my corals and two anemones are growing well with this light. I have it set at 100% blues and 75% whites. This LED fixture uses alot less power and runs alot cooler than the T5 setup I had.

This LED setup is plenty powerful enough for my shallow tank that is 12" deep. I would NOT advise using this fixture for anything deeper. This light would also be plenty to grow SPS in a shallow tank. The LED gives a nice shimmering effect that T5 washes out but it is still not as good as thwe shimmer you would get from single powerful LED light.

4 stars for the good value and I would not bother spending money on anything else if you have a shallow tank. For deeper tanks these lights will not do the job so look elsewhere.

UPDATE: I have been running this light fixture on my 20 long for 3 months now. My tank has RBTAs, SPS, LPS and softies. I initially had the light set at 100% blues and 75% whites. I now run it at 60% blue and 60% whites ( the same as the acclimation mode) for 8 hours per day. The thing to note with LEDs is they are not as bright to our eyes as T5 but they are very strong on your corals. I have found this one fixture at 60% sitting directly on top of a 20 long with clear water is as strong as you will ever need. I would still consider it a high light tank even on the bottom with this setup. Any type of SPS will grow like crazy anywhere in the tank. If you have a deeper tank (20 long is 12" deep) you will need to bump up the intensity. Also note to get good growth and amazing coloration lighting is only one piece of the puzzle. Couple this with frequent water changes with a good salt mix and RODI water, weekly tank feedings, carbon to combat chemical warfare and your tank will thrive. Do not use GFO, Purigen, reactors etc as it will strip the water of nutrients that your corals need to thrive. Corals will survive in a sterile tank but will not grow very quickly.

This is a good light for seeing the fish and owner enjoyment. If you are a hard core reef keeper with fancy coral you will need to get more than one to get the PAR you need. If you have a nice fish only tank and just want to see the fish this is great. I actually put it on an African cichlid tank and it works great, brings the blues out in my fish great and I like that it will run a full day and night cycle with a dawn and dusk without my intervention is great. This is not the brightest light by far, but it is also very reasonably priced for what you get. Like I said if you are a hard core reef keeper this is probably not going to make you happy unless you have a very, very shallow tank. If you don't need a bright light and want a nice light to see the fish this is a great light, best one out there in my opinion. There are many brighter ones, but they cost a lot more too. This light uses a lot of low watt LED's. It is cheaper to put a lot of low watt LEDs then fewer high watt LEDs. The problem is that the low watt LEDs don't penetrate the water as well as the high watt ones do. High watt LEDs are good for growing things, low watt lights look nice and are cheaper to build and you have more ability to use different color LEDs if you have a lot of them. The dynamic lighting modes are what sets this light apart. If you have not yet, go on YouTube and watch the videos. The modes are pretty cool. The lightening mode is the favorite of my kids and it is pretty realistic for a light with a small controller. Other LED lights out there are much brighter, but you pay more, they are harder to program and they turn the white lights on or off and the blue lights on or off. This fixture is able to vary the lights much more. It has a nice dawn and dusk feature that is fully programmable and being able to sit and watch the simulated clouds go over my fish tank is pretty fun to watch. Honest truth is that as far as the fish are concerned they don't really need any light. As long as they can find the food that is all they care about. This light is for the owner and if you don't have to grow plants or coral, why waste the money, energy and time on a higher watt light that you have to clean the algae in the tank more? Just wish they made the freshwater plus light with the controller...

This is a revolutionary concept in aquarium lighting for someone like me who has used only fluorescent fixtures. For not much more than fluorescent hood plus bulb (my hood fixture was shot and the bulb was old, so the extra money didn't hurt), I got this. I don't have it optimized, but It works fine. The unit has two rows each of white and blue LEDs. The actual length is shorter than the given size. It appears to be calculated based on the angle at which the bulbs will illuminate the aquarium. On the outside edges, there is a little less light, but you can slide the unit to one side if there's one spot on the edge you want to highlight. It's also natural to have a shady spot in the aquarium for fish to retreat to. The lamp unit sits nicely where the fluorescent light assembly sat. There are extendable legs for reasons unclear to me. There is a controller unit and a remote to operate the controller, which cycles the two banks of lights on and off and dims them, cycling independently. The designers apparently thought twilight where my fish came from is blue, whereas daylight is bright white (not sunlight in my opinion). That's okay; I'm used to it after a few weeks, and the fish don't seem to mind. The snails have changed their cycle, and I see them less.

Overall, I recommend it, but I'd suggest anyone whose lighting hasn't fizzled try to see this in action before getting one; you may not be as adaptable to the novelty as me. The following are specific observations after a month use:

1) The white light is not like the gro-lite or aquarium-lite colors. I sort of like it, though it does not look like sunlight to me. The blue light seems to have some UVA in it, because the corals (dead) fluoresce.
2. One great thing about this is that you set it once or twice and the day-night cycle repeats automatically, so I don't have to remember to turn on and off the aquarium. Another great thing is that unlike fluorescent, it's dimmable, so the day-night cycle is natural except for the weird colors. Maybe I missed it, but I don't recall the light getting blue at dusk underwater. If the blue light is uva, None of my fish has colors that fluoresce with the UVA. I have assorted damsels, clowns, and a scat. My biggest fish, a velvet damsel, died during the month, but he had been in the tank at least a decade and probably expired for unrelated reasons.
3. The fish and invertebrates in my tank seem happy with the two-color display, perhaps a little calmer than before (most of these fish have been in my tank at least several years, some as much as six or seven). Two fish that had been rather aggressive have calmed and the pecking order has muted, possibly as a result of the lighting. I suppose invertebrates would show off in this light, but the ambient temp gets up to 90F, so I have to content myself with hardy fish. I got a beautiful condylactis a couple of years ago and would love to see it in this light; I gave it away when the warm season began and it started roaming.

4. The tank cycled algae beginning a week or two after I changed lights. There was no other change I can think of that would have caused this. Water chemistry is pretty constant (I measure pH and temp plus sniff and occasional nitrite, which is always low in this well established tank). This process is ongoing. No massive die-off or change in water quality I could detect. I use mostly low-phosphorous carbon to control algae. For a while the snails had sparse pickings and I added spirulina and seaweed, but now it's returning, a bit thinner than before and more specific to pieces of (dead) coral. Water quality, pH, remain normal.

I ordered the 48" model for a 60 gallon tank, I have since moved up to a 90 gallon. My original plan was just fish and live rock, the soft coral I saw in several tanks changed my mind. For fowlr just 1 is fine.
I have uploaded pictures of the 60 & 90 with the single unit on, I will say the mushrooms, green star Polyps have gotten bigger. I have just picked up a few leather corals & they seem to be doing fine. After lots of reading & checking the par required for many corals. I have just placed the corals higher up than I really want. I definitely need 2 units.
The problem is even with 2 units the par levels are pretty marginal.
I will probably just get a second unit which will be sufficient for my aquarium, yet only sufficient. Led lights are what you want for sure, but make a decision on how much you want to spend. IMHO this guide Fowlr- half watt per gallon
Soft coral & some LPS. Min. 1watt, best shoot for 2 watts.
Many if not the majority really require 3 watts or more.
Per the Current website the par values for each one :
120-150 @ 0"
50-70 @12"
20-40 @ 18"
5-20 @ 24"
According to the tech department @ current multiply values by number of units.
So as you can see pretty much all coral would require 2 of these on any tank 18" tall and higher.
2- 48" current marine units are $400 + (will be ok for most softies & few more LPS)

2 cheap led from China $300 + (will handle all coral)

1-48" reefbreeders photon $500 (handles a big majority, 2 yr warranty and can be repaired by many)

Ecotech, Kessel & others - great lights well over a grand$ probably closer to 1200 or more., to cover a 90 gallon aquarium.

The timer seems to be working ok, I have it on the 12hr mode & its always on past midnight when its supposed to be off. If it comes on in the middle of the night, I really don't know. I have to be up at 4am & it is always off when I get up. Comes on @8am just like it is supposed to.
I am thinking about buying another one but I just can't decide if I should just get the reefbreeders because it will be little bit better, no way I can afford the higher end systems.
Overall I personally feel like for the price this is the best saltwater fish led light readily available, calling it a reef light though is kinda a stretch in my opinion.
I have included a copy of the reefbreeders par values, as can be seen its much stronger.